Hi all,

Done a ton of searching on here and had mixed results. I would like to go roller on my new 400 build (.30 over, kb240 pistons, 5 in the hole). I would like lifters that direct oil the wheel, I saw Andy used the AMC from Comp Cams but they no longer makes those. I have searched tons of websites and rarely does it state if the lifter direct oils the wheel. Plan on using Lunati 40230730 cam.

So what lifters should I get or suggestions?

Thanks!

I run the Isky Red Zone bushed mechanical rollers. I attached a cut-away photo. I believe there is some info floating on the web that they actually don't directly oil the bushing though. So far, my valve lash is very stable and my valve train is the smoothest running it has ever been. I did use B3 racing spec'd custom T&D rocker arm set-up and Manton Stage 5 7/16's pushrods.

Another thing that i did was install a collar on the distributor shaft to limit the up and down movement of the intermediate shaft gear(it dramatically reduced wear on my previous bronze gears), which is a hardened steel unit from Hughes Engines.

What is that passageway inside the red circle?

Looks like an oiling passageway to me?

I have comp 96829-16 lifters in my 440. They have the same height pushrod seat as the regular comp 829 lifters but have the orifice to oil the needle bearings and are made of stronger material. They also have a bushed version of my lifters with no needle bearings which are 96829b-16

Crane 66550-16 I bought mine from a member on here. competitionwedge I believe.

A few years ago at the Indy Cylinder Heads Mopar show I asked the Comp Cams guy what he thought of the bronze bushings instead of bearings in the rollers. His opinion was "race only - absolutely not for street use".

To your point about directing oil to the roller ... many brands advertise "pressurized roller oiling" for a specific style lifter but when you ask point blank "do the Mopar lifters have pressurized oiling" the answer will be "no". Do your homework. The Crane's do have pressurized oiling and also have the rollers shrouded to prevent uncovering the oil galley at high lift (not an issue with your itty-bitty cam).

They still make them. Just got a set last week.

Thanks for all the info.

Andy,
I have scoured their website and they appear to not exist. Can you share the part number or where you got them from?


Dan...

Yes, this picture definitely shows a direct pressure oil passage. As to if this guarantees that the Mopar set has this feature remains unclear to me. AndyF uses the AMC solid rollers for a reason, which I believe is related to the location of the pushrod seat and the shrouding of the lifter to prevent uncovering of the oil galley in high lift cam use. I could be wrong, but AndyF's knowledge of these lifters is from first hand, skilled machinist knowledge.

Notice Stanton points out the issue very well in his post. "To your point about directing oil to the roller ... many brands advertise "pressurized roller oiling" for a specific style lifter but when you ask point blank "do the Mopar lifters have pressurized oiling" the answer will be "no". Do your homework. The Crane's do have pressurized oiling and also have the rollers shrouded to prevent uncovering the oil galley at high lift (not an issue with your itty-bitty cam)."

Call Comp Cams and tell them that you want AMC solid roller lifters with Chrysler big block tie bars so you can use them in a big block Mopar.

For long life on the street with high RPM, above 7000 RPM, buy the best lifters you can get your hands on, regardless of the price
I like and use the Crower brand BB Mopar roller lifters now Contact them at 619-661-6477 8:00 AM to 5:30 PM Pacific time

WHAT?!?!?!

Engine Masters just had an episode on lifters. The focus was hydraulic vs roller, but at the end of the episode, Dulcich and Ehrinburg have a discussion about the different styles of lifters available. They really felt that while there were big differences in lifter quality between brands, there was not a clear winner as to which style was the 'go-to' one. All types had their strengths and weaknesses. Interesting stuff.

JBC, where did you source the collar shown in your post/
I have the collar from Hughs and it's the type you have to put a set screw into the shaft to tighten.
Your shows a cinching type which I believe will be easier to install.

Hughs shows in their catalogue the set screw type.

Thanks. Joe

I believe Hughes Engines used to carry the style I have pictured, but here's a link to another source.

https://www.huyett.com/products/power-transmission/shaft-collars/single-split-shaft-collars

I do clean the locking screw and collar with brake/carb cleaner, let it dry and use loctite on the screw. In addition to stabilizing my timing the collars significantly reduced the wear on my intermediate shaft gears.

I used to run bronze, but have since switched to the coated steel gears available at Hughes. I used to wondered how much having the bronze gear cryogenically treated would help, but when I switched to a new solid roller cam , I went with the steel gear.

JBC, do you remember off-hand what the diameter of the dist. shaft is?

Thanks, Joe

I think it is 1/2"

McMaster-Carr

https://www.mcmaster.com/shaft-collars/construction~one-piece/clamping-shaft-collars-9/

Thanks guys....Joe

Only use Comp Cams if you don't care if you motor blows on the dyno and your one that pulls hundred dollar bills out of your butt. Their lifters and rockers are JUNK.

I've used Comp Cam cams, lifters and rocker arms for years without any issues.

Years ago Comp was pretty good stuff but the last few years they have gone to crap. Have had several failures with their roller rockers and roller lifters on different motors Mopar, Ford and Chevy. A few were on the motor dyno before the motors ever saw a car.
Their customer service is worse than Indy Cylinder Head.
Here more about them
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...camshaft-ever-seen-one-like-this.203738/