Trying to get the idle set up and warm up enrichment set on my Terminator.
Gen 3 hemi with comp 274 cam
Duration Advertised Intake: 274
Duration Advertised Exhaust: 287
Duration @ .050" Intake: 226
Duration @ .050" Exhaust: 234
Valve Lift Intake: 0.619
Valve Lift Exhaust: 0.612
Lobe Sep. Angle: 116

Where has anyone started for idle. 850 rpm warmed up it will pull about 12.5inhg. Problem i get into is if can start up and idle fine but the minute it gets any fuel it goes full chop and surges. took it for a spin and ever time i come to a decel it dies.

Pointers on what to look at and tweak? Ive watched so many videos ive gone blue, figured someone might be of assistance.

Surging is usually a fuel inversion. Try adding fuel in the lower section of the map. Also, temporarily open up the map rate of change (roc) value. If the roc is exceeded, the correction is suspended, and the self tuning stops functioning. The problem with leaving the roc wide, is it can allow the wideband to fight the enrichments.

Another thing that can be problematic, is initial throttle setting. At warm idle, make sure your idle control is below 10%. The throttle blade should be the holder of your primary throttle rpm. The idle control motor is there for bumps in needed rpm, not to maintain minimum rpm.

Are you using the handheld or a laptop? Laptop is really needed as the handheld is hard to tune with.

The default afr and timing tables are only to get it to start. Once you have a good afr table you can have it self tune the fuel map. They also need to be smoothed, default has big jumps. Use 2d tables and not the simple ones.
IAC position at hot idle should be 2-5%. If you have a tight torque converter that drags rpm lower than in park you have to tune it in gear. IAC will make it surge if thats the case because it cannot hit target idle constantly.

I have a stock 6.1 running terminator X, I use the stock DBW throttle body I modified to cable and use a ford PWM IAC.

I started with this video, will give a good idea how to play with the timing and afr maps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tGlPoWK2kf0&t=1113s

I have 24 as max timing.

Can you get it to idle like the way you want it in open loop?
If not why don't you try that and if you get it close to where you like it save it and go to close loop to see if it will self learn to your chosen specs.
I have not yet swapped to a EFI system yet but I have had Rich at Fastman EFI tune a Gen 2 Hemi for me on a engine dyno, it didn't take him long to get it to idle well at 1000 RPM
That was on a 572 C.I. pump gas hemi with dual 1150 dry throttle body with a Holley EFI Terminator, I think, system.

Run a datalog and then study the datalog.

So far ive been data logging and using the computer to fine tune everything. I had the idle figured out this morning and took it for a spin. The desired and actual AFR are going nuts. Its mind numbing trying to get a graps on this so far

What does your tach signal look like on your data log?

The system is VERY sensitive to RFI from things like plug wires, the lightning storm inside the distributor cap or the alternator.

If you aren't using their distributor, or any of the harness runs near ignition wires or the alternator, it can pick up that interference and raise holy hell with your tune. The data log should show a pencil line trace. If it's a jagged wide line, you're getting interference.

A friend of mine chased his tail for a week on a Sniper he installed. Had the harness hidden with all the charging system wires and plug wires that run along the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. Moved the harness off the engine and problem gone.

I ran into this with my stone age Commander 950. The pickup wires inside the distributor were picking up all the noise from inside the cap and it made my tach signal 2000 rpm wide.

Kevin

No dist in the GEN III hemi. The AFR issue was I had all self learning off what messed horribly with the AFR's. I turned it on and set the learning to work at 100% to try and get a good base figured out. I ended up just using the generic fuel table Holley comes with and let it learn from there.
I also found out that the PCV what I still had plumbed was causing way too much unmetered air into the system as well what caused idle down to some times hang at moments.

So far it is a learning curve. Drivability wise this thing is a Monster, Idle to 7000 from a dig it doesnt stop pulling. Too bad the track season is about tied up, but should be ready next spring to his the ground running.

Yeah a PCV with EFI is usually a bad combination. If you need to vent the crankcase then use a fixed orifice to the intake. The orifice can be small, something in the 0.090 range should work.

The key to making EFI work is to figure out what the target AFR needs to be. Once you know what the engine wants then it just a matter of filling in the boxes. A lot of people guess at the AFR and then don't verify what the engine really wants. Some engines don't follow the textbook rules so you have to do some experimenting.

Big shout out to Alan Pursiensky for the helping me get the tuning almost nailed down.
Spoke with him the other night and he helped walked me through a lot of the holley EFI tuning i had no idea on. He made a fuel map for what he said with most 550hp cars would work. Car idles at a flat 900 and has absolutely no hesitation from idle to WOT or even cruising and getting on it. Ended up not using the Map to tune it but all TPS due to the overlap of the cam.

Glad to help.