I have a problem on my 70 Satellite where the car keeps shutting off , it will only happen once or twice on a run out and it usually happens when idling , eg at the traffic lights or traffic jam

Initially I thought it only does it when slightly cold but today it did it at full operating temperature

It doesn’t splutter and shut off like a fuel problem , it shuts off just like if you were to turn the ignition off

The car usually will start up right away again ok

Any ideas ? Many thanks

Do you still have the point ignition or have you "upgraded" to the Mopar electronic version?

With the car running, jiggle the wires to the ballast resistor. If it shuts off, it's the resistor. A $3.00 part.

Double check the bulkhead connectors..
These are frequently damaged and/or oxidized..

Just my $0.02...

Had a problem like that as well, turned out to be a float adjustment in my carb. Had a 750 mech secs., ran like a beast but would cook out randomly, only found the problem when I had the hood up with the air cleaner off cranking engine after it petered out.

Has your car been converted to electronic ignition? If so , check the plug going to the electronic ecu box. Make sure it's in all the way and the little bolt is tight. Recently, I had a no start condition.
Had no spark going to the spark plugs. Noticed the plug going to the electronic was a little loose and the bolt, I was able turn by hand. Unplugged it , put it back on and tightened the bolt. Car fired right up. This was on my 68 Coronet.
May or may not be the problem for you; but, it's an easy thing to check.

I ran into that issue with a 69 Chrysler Newport. After months of chasing it, I figured out I had a couple wires going through the bulkhead connector that wasn't making good contact. The wires in my case were from inside the car. I pulled it apart and cleaned it with electrical cleaner, reassembled it, then pushed all the ends into the bulkhead connector from under the dash. I never had a problem after that. Gene

i had a customers car a few years back that would die every time the right door was closed. Drove him nuts fr awhile so he brought it in. LOL Long story.
The culprit was the female bullet that supplies V to the control box was recessed when the plug was molded and barley touching the male pin. New harness plug and end of problem

He had bought everything new from year one. They actually refunded the invoice amount to him.

You need to do some testing. The blue wire that comes from the ignition switch has power in the "run" position. This wire goes to the ballast and the coil. Start by checking the flat connector at the base of the steering column. Wiggle the connector and make sure you have power accross it. If that's good, move to the bulkhead connector. Test both sides of that and make sure you have good contact there. If that's good, move to the ballast. Make sure the blue wire has power in the "run" position. All connections need to be tight and free from moisture. Adding some dielectric grease to all electrical contacts is a good idea.

you did say not likely fuel but E10 with a carb will do that. plumbing a can of good gas to the pump inlet would confirm/deny that potential. switch the pump to non ethanol then pump several or more gallons into the car then some into the gas can cuz when you switch the pump to a different blend there is still some of the previous type in the pump hose/lines. might not be much but we want nothing left to chance.