So I have a newly rebuilt 23 spline 4 speed in my Cuda, with a new Mcleod pressure plate and disc. I had a rear main seal leaking so I had to pull everything and after I got to looking at the flywheel and pressure plate I noticed some hot spots on both. There is only about 50 miles on these at most , because I had to pull the motor and fix the rear main. I had the original flywheel resurfaced at the local clutch and U joint shop before I put it together. Any Ideas on what would cause these spots? Is the pressure plate still usable? I just ordered a new 130 tooth flywheel from Mcleod and have no plan to reuse the original.

These are the part numbers of my clutch and pressure plate. I sent an E-mail to Brewers but have not heard back yet.

That’s what happens when the cover flexes. What disc are you running? If it’s a rag disc you need NO MORE than 2400 pounds of plate load. If it’s some dual friction thing, get rid of it and get a rag disc. If you have to remove springs to get the plate load down to 2400 do it. If run that cover with 6 springs. You’ll probably need to go down to 9 springs to get there.

The only time a clutch wears or develops enough heat to blue the steel/iron surfaces is when it is slipping. Not knowing how you drive/use a clutch is an issue. I've seen guys who have been around cars for years and know how to build them use the clutch to "hill hold" a car. Or they slip it well past when it could have been solidly engaged while taking off.

I'm not commenting on how you used it here. Just saying.

I would call McLeod, get a Return Authorization, and have them refresh the cover. Tell them what you are running and follow their recommendation. There's no way a 2400lbs cover would last in any of the 440 cars I build over the years. A local shop here build me a 3400lbs cover that never warped. I still have a fresh 3400 lbs cover in my basement from back in the day. It would break the release arms on occasion though.

You could also scuff the glaze off the cover and put a fresh disc in, but that is a pretty wimpy clutch except for a stock small block or something to begin with. Then again, some folks never use full power on their rides. I just can't imagine living like that. Life is too short. Then again, speed cost money
. How fast do you want to go.

I am currently using a Street Twin from McLeod. It's the only clutch I've ever used that consistently works correctly and never slips once engaged. Best clutch ever

Call Jamie Passon and do it right one time

I had failures similar to that in two clutches behind a decently built 440. I ended up going with a street twin and haven't looked back since. I have a 383 for my next project and was thinking of doing a 432 stroker kit. Not sure if the street twin would be overkill or not. But man I love that clutch.

It is a pretty bone stock 383 small cam, the original motor for the car. I went with what Brewers suggested, and adjusted it according to Mcleods installation instructions. There is very little use on this set up maybe 50 miles. Maybe I adjusted the clutch wrong...

I do remember when we were loading it on the trailer to bring to the front end shop for alignment, there was some clutch smell. Car was running like crap and hard to get up the ramps, that might have done it.

I take the dust cover off ad look at the throw out bearing to clutch levers clearances, I adjust the rod until I have between .030 to .100 clearances between the lever and bearing
This will make the clutch move up so it will start to work better on making the clutch disc disengage fully with the clutch pedal push down close to the floor