Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789230
06/25/20 06:34 PM
06/25/20 06:34 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864 Pattison Texas
CSK
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
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I decided to pull out the 4.56 gears and swap in a set of 4.10 gears. Also decided to pull the fuel cell out of the trunk and build a custom 20 gallon tank to fit in the kick up area between the wheel tubs. Both projects are underway but neither one is proving to be easy! I was able to pull the Dana 60 apart but putting it back together requires some tools I don't have so I'm waiting for those. Doctor Diff set me up with the new gears as well as an install kit and a bunch of advice. I've also been following the FSM as well as this document from the Strange Engr website: https://www.strangeengineering.net/dana-60-gear-installation/The FSM is useful but not spot on since the Strange S60 has side adjusters and some other little details that are different. Besides, the FSM approach is super complicated with expensive checking tools for pinion depth and such. Everyone I've talked says to just bolt it together, check the pattern and go from there. The fuel cell project has been interesting. I think I've figured out how to solve the various issues I had with the cheap off the shelf fuel cell. I did a bunch of research into fuel cells and came to the conclusion that to run an EFI system on the street I needed a custom tank. I wasn't confident enough in my design knowledge to draw up a tank and have it built so I decided to work with a local chassis shop to customize an existing tank. We're adding a sump, replacing all of the mounts and brackets, redesigning the vent system and the filler tube. I'll snap some pictures once I start getting parts in hand. I am doing a gear change on my s60, I bought the Strange spanner tool, you can use a punch, but the tool works great. I went from 3.54, to a 4.10
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789248
06/25/20 08:07 PM
06/25/20 08:07 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864 Pattison Texas
CSK
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master
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864
Pattison Texas
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When I went back together I snugged the caps & then loosened them to where they were just BARELY tight & then set the back lash & preload, then torque the caps & then recheck the BL, the preload was set by both spanners touching the race with no play & then turn the left adjuster one click, ie one hole, this was all done while setting the BL That is how much preload it had when I took it apart. about 5k miles on it.so the bearings are broke in,
Last edited by csk; 06/25/20 08:10 PM.
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789317
06/26/20 12:49 AM
06/26/20 12:49 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,228
Bend,OR USA
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I use old inner races stack onto the rear pinion bearings to press them on. I did make a set of set up bearing years ago for Dana 60 so I use them first and then install the new bearings after getting the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload set up on the pinion gear. Same thing on the carrier bearing preload and back lash shims on the OEM Dana 60 The Mopar FSM call for between .013 and .015 carrier bearing preload if my memory is correct. I'm going through a Ford Nine inch Lincoln Versiale (SP?) rear end for my 1940 Ford Tudor sedan, the on line sources I've found call fo rbetween .003 and .005 carrier bearing preload, I've got a little more than that based on setting up 8 3/4 using the Mopar FSM installation instruction, pray for me on this Ford 9 inch rear end
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789363
06/26/20 09:19 AM
06/26/20 09:19 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296 Chicago, IL
TonyS451
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296
Chicago, IL
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Thanks. It is a fun car to drive. It goes straight, handles pretty well, stops really well and goes hard when you get on it. It is noisy inside due to all of the bare tin but I think I could solve that by having an upholstery shop install some carpet. I do have a few things I'd like to improve on it such as putting a larger fuel cell in it and replacing the floor in the trunk. I'll also need to change the gears at some point since the 4.56 gears are just too steep for this engine. I think 4.10 gears would be better but I might need to drop down to the 3.90 range. I need to get more miles on the car before I'll know for sure. Here is another picture I snapped. Working on my car photography skills...... Thats awesome, Andy. The car looks great! Glad you're getting some seat time
2 kids and a dog
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789818
06/27/20 11:15 AM
06/27/20 11:15 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,687 On the parachute mount
n20mstr
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,687
On the parachute mount
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I want to see the fuel cell, Im very partial to A bodys and ANdy you make some very nice parts/pieces !
This is such a nice "modern" car. But i like "modern" with the "old" engine. Not a new gen hemi..LOL
....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2789936
06/27/20 04:15 PM
06/27/20 04:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296 Chicago, IL
TonyS451
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,296
Chicago, IL
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Dana 60 guys might be interested in the cover that I picked up. I had an LPW cast cover on there which I decided that I didn't like anymore so I pulled it off. I wanted a simple steel cover but I didn't want a cheap Pep Boys chrome cover. Turns out that Spicer sells a heavy duty bare steel cover for $38. This cover is made from 1/8 inch steel so it is much stronger than the original factory covers or the chinese tin covers. I was going to clear coat it but then I decided to get it nickel plated with a batch of parts. Turned out really nice. Count me in for one AR engineering Dana 60 cover please!
2 kids and a dog
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: TonyS451]
#2789961
06/27/20 04:52 PM
06/27/20 04:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,050 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,050
Oregon
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Dana 60 guys might be interested in the cover that I picked up. I had an LPW cast cover on there which I decided that I didn't like anymore so I pulled it off. I wanted a simple steel cover but I didn't want a cheap Pep Boys chrome cover. Turns out that Spicer sells a heavy duty bare steel cover for $38. This cover is made from 1/8 inch steel so it is much stronger than the original factory covers or the chinese tin covers. I was going to clear coat it but then I decided to get it nickel plated with a batch of parts. Turned out really nice. Count me in for one AR engineering Dana 60 cover please! I don't think I'm going to set these up as a product but you might be able to convince Doctor Diff to carry them. I like the super thick steel cover since it really seals up the gasket surface. Not sure if Cass would want to buy the covers in bulk from Spicer and have them plated or not but maybe. I like the Nickel plating. Not as showy as chrome but more interesting than paint.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2790198
06/28/20 07:24 AM
06/28/20 07:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,028 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,028
Tulsa OK
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My D60 cover isn't in the best shape, and its not that thick if I recall. I might try this next time I need to get the cover off. I will skip on the plating though, a low a-body with a stock gas tank completely hides it.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2790211
06/28/20 08:49 AM
06/28/20 08:49 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,875 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,875
S.E. Michigan
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My original '68 3.54 B body dana had been run in a pro street Camaro before I got it, and the cover on it was plain steel but way thicker than a stock one. I believe I probably have the same cover you have there but could never figure out where the previous owner sourced it. It's still on it.
I appreciate the down to earth stuff like that just as much as the fancy stuff (actually maybe more, as the years pile on....maybe because it looks more familiar).
Not everything needs to be aluminum with 12 point ARP stainless hardware and all that, but sometimes that stuff is cool.
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: n20mstr]
#2791746
07/02/20 12:06 AM
07/02/20 12:06 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,050 Oregon
AndyF
OP
I Win
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OP
I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,050
Oregon
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I want to see the fuel cell, Im very partial to A bodys and ANdy you make some very nice parts/pieces !
This is such a nice "modern" car. But i like "modern" with the "old" engine. Not a new gen hemi..LOL
Here is a picture of the fuel cell parts mocked up in location as well as a picture of the internal baffle for the fuel cell. I have almost all the parts on hand now, just need to weld it all together and then bolt it in the car.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2792871
07/05/20 09:30 AM
07/05/20 09:30 AM
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Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,555 Rittman Ohio
fourgearsavoy
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 10,555
Rittman Ohio
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I was having trouble installing the pinion back into the housing by myself so I made a tool that presses the pinion in place from the rear. With the pinion held in place I was able to tap the front bearing on and then tighten the nut on the yoke. I talked to a buddy who does rearends on a regular basis and he said he just has his helper hold the pinion so he can get the front bearing tapped into place. Strange Engr recommends polishing the pinion shaft so the front bearing slides on but I didn't have the tools to do that. You don't have tools like a vice and a strip of emery cloth? That is all it takes to polish it until the bearing slides right on
64 Plymouth Savoy 493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow 5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box Dana 60
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2795519
07/11/20 03:44 PM
07/11/20 03:44 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,864 Pattison Texas
CSK
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master
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Pattison Texas
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Rigged up an old fashioned torque wrench to double check the pinion pre-load. I have a small inch-lb torque wrench but the numbers are so small it is easy to fool yourself. A weight on a lever is hard to fool. The problem with that way is there is a break away amount that is more than the actual turning torque, with new bearings on a 60 I like 20 in lbs turning As Strange says, Rotational drag The pinion nut needs to be torqued to 250 ft/lbs. With the pinion bearing properly lubricated, increase or decrease the shim stack under the front bearing cone to achieve 20-25 inch/lbs of rotational drag or pre-load. This adjustment is why we recommended polishing the area on the pinion where the bearing rests; it can greatly speed up this process if you don’t get it right the first, second, or even third time.
Last edited by csk; 07/11/20 03:47 PM.
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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