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Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789230
06/25/20 06:34 PM
06/25/20 06:34 PM
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Pattison Texas
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Originally Posted by AndyF
I decided to pull out the 4.56 gears and swap in a set of 4.10 gears. Also decided to pull the fuel cell out of the trunk and build a custom 20 gallon tank to fit in the kick up area between the wheel tubs. Both projects are underway but neither one is proving to be easy! I was able to pull the Dana 60 apart but putting it back together requires some tools I don't have so I'm waiting for those. Doctor Diff set me up with the new gears as well as an install kit and a bunch of advice. I've also been following the FSM as well as this document from the Strange Engr website: https://www.strangeengineering.net/dana-60-gear-installation/

The FSM is useful but not spot on since the Strange S60 has side adjusters and some other little details that are different. Besides, the FSM approach is super complicated with expensive checking tools for pinion depth and such. Everyone I've talked says to just bolt it together, check the pattern and go from there.

The fuel cell project has been interesting. I think I've figured out how to solve the various issues I had with the cheap off the shelf fuel cell. I did a bunch of research into fuel cells and came to the conclusion that to run an EFI system on the street I needed a custom tank. I wasn't confident enough in my design knowledge to draw up a tank and have it built so I decided to work with a local chassis shop to customize an existing tank. We're adding a sump, replacing all of the mounts and brackets, redesigning the vent system and the filler tube. I'll snap some pictures once I start getting parts in hand.


I am doing a gear change on my s60, I bought the Strange spanner tool, you can use a punch, but the tool works great. I went from 3.54, to a 4.10


1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI
512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim
2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: CSK] #2789236
06/25/20 07:14 PM
06/25/20 07:14 PM
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I do have the Strange spanner wrench for the side adjusters. My problem was I wasn't sure if the adjusters were RH or LH thread so I called Strange tech line. The guy I talked to told me they were LH thread. I grunted for a bit before I came to the conclusion that the tech guy was wrong! The side adjusters were really tight in my S60. I had to put a pipe on the spanner to loosen them up. I talked to another guy who said that he takes takes the torque off the main caps before turning the adjusters and then they move easily. I was told to remove the torque from the side adjusters first but maybe that was more bad advice.

The more difficult issues I've had are on the pinion side. I needed a small tool to pull the yoke and then another tool to install the pinion bearing cups into the housing and then another tool to press the rear bearing onto the pinion shaft. I've rebuilt transmissions before so I have a selection of bearing tools, but none of them were exactly correct for the Dana 60.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789248
06/25/20 08:07 PM
06/25/20 08:07 PM
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Pattison Texas
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When I went back together I snugged the caps & then loosened them to where they were just BARELY tight & then set the back lash & preload, then torque the caps & then recheck the BL, the preload was set by both spanners touching the race with no play & then turn the left adjuster one click, ie one hole, this was all done while setting the BL
That is how much preload it had when I took it apart. about 5k miles on it.so the bearings are broke in,

Last edited by csk; 06/25/20 08:10 PM.

1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI
512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim
2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789317
06/26/20 12:49 AM
06/26/20 12:49 AM
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Bend,OR USA
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I use old inner races stack onto the rear pinion bearings to press them on. I did make a set of set up bearing years ago for Dana 60 so I use them first and then install the new bearings after getting the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload set up on the pinion gear. Same thing on the carrier bearing preload and back lash shims on the OEM Dana 60 wrench
The Mopar FSM call for between .013 and .015 carrier bearing preload if my memory is correct.
I'm going through a Ford Nine inch Lincoln Versiale (SP?) rear end for my 1940 Ford Tudor sedan, the on line sources I've found call fo rbetween .003 and .005 carrier bearing preload, I've got a little more than that based on setting up 8 3/4 using the Mopar FSM installation instruction, pray for me on this Ford 9 inch rear end luck shruggy


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789363
06/26/20 09:19 AM
06/26/20 09:19 AM
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Chicago, IL
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Originally Posted by AndyF
Thanks. It is a fun car to drive. It goes straight, handles pretty well, stops really well and goes hard when you get on it. It is noisy inside due to all of the bare tin but I think I could solve that by having an upholstery shop install some carpet. I do have a few things I'd like to improve on it such as putting a larger fuel cell in it and replacing the floor in the trunk. I'll also need to change the gears at some point since the 4.56 gears are just too steep for this engine. I think 4.10 gears would be better but I might need to drop down to the 3.90 range. I need to get more miles on the car before I'll know for sure. Here is another picture I snapped. Working on my car photography skills......


Thats awesome, Andy. The car looks great! Glad you're getting some seat time


2 kids and a dog
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789551
06/26/20 04:43 PM
06/26/20 04:43 PM
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Oregon
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Dana 60 guys might be interested in the cover that I picked up. I had an LPW cast cover on there which I decided that I didn't like anymore so I pulled it off. I wanted a simple steel cover but I didn't want a cheap Pep Boys chrome cover. Turns out that Spicer sells a heavy duty bare steel cover for $38. This cover is made from 1/8 inch steel so it is much stronger than the original factory covers or the chinese tin covers. I was going to clear coat it but then I decided to get it nickel plated with a batch of parts. Turned out really nice.

DSC_4224 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789818
06/27/20 11:15 AM
06/27/20 11:15 AM
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On the parachute mount
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On the parachute mount


I want to see the fuel cell, Im very partial to A bodys and ANdy you make some very nice parts/pieces !

This is such a nice "modern" car. But i like "modern" with the "old" engine. Not a new gen hemi..LOL


....BAD A$$ STREET CAR.....
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789936
06/27/20 04:15 PM
06/27/20 04:15 PM
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Chicago, IL
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Originally Posted by AndyF
Dana 60 guys might be interested in the cover that I picked up. I had an LPW cast cover on there which I decided that I didn't like anymore so I pulled it off. I wanted a simple steel cover but I didn't want a cheap Pep Boys chrome cover. Turns out that Spicer sells a heavy duty bare steel cover for $38. This cover is made from 1/8 inch steel so it is much stronger than the original factory covers or the chinese tin covers. I was going to clear coat it but then I decided to get it nickel plated with a batch of parts. Turned out really nice.


Count me in for one AR engineering Dana 60 cover please!


2 kids and a dog
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2789956
06/27/20 04:48 PM
06/27/20 04:48 PM
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Virginia
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Andy, my S60 came with that same cover direct from Strange, includes a magnet inside. I was told that's what you get unless you pay for an upgraded cast cover. That was 4 or 5 years ago. Nice touch with the plating.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: TonyS451] #2789961
06/27/20 04:52 PM
06/27/20 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TonyS451
Originally Posted by AndyF
Dana 60 guys might be interested in the cover that I picked up. I had an LPW cast cover on there which I decided that I didn't like anymore so I pulled it off. I wanted a simple steel cover but I didn't want a cheap Pep Boys chrome cover. Turns out that Spicer sells a heavy duty bare steel cover for $38. This cover is made from 1/8 inch steel so it is much stronger than the original factory covers or the chinese tin covers. I was going to clear coat it but then I decided to get it nickel plated with a batch of parts. Turned out really nice.


Count me in for one AR engineering Dana 60 cover please!


I don't think I'm going to set these up as a product but you might be able to convince Doctor Diff to carry them. I like the super thick steel cover since it really seals up the gasket surface. Not sure if Cass would want to buy the covers in bulk from Spicer and have them plated or not but maybe. I like the Nickel plating. Not as showy as chrome but more interesting than paint.

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2790198
06/28/20 07:24 AM
06/28/20 07:24 AM
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Tulsa OK
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My D60 cover isn't in the best shape, and its not that thick if I recall. I might try this next time I need to get the cover off. I will skip on the plating though, a low a-body with a stock gas tank completely hides it.


68 Barracuda Formula S 340
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2790211
06/28/20 08:49 AM
06/28/20 08:49 AM
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S.E. Michigan
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My original '68 3.54 B body dana had been run in a pro street Camaro before I got it,
and the cover on it was plain steel but way thicker than a stock one. I believe I probably have the same
cover you have there but could never figure out where the previous owner sourced it. It's still on it.

I appreciate the down to earth stuff like that just as much as the fancy stuff
(actually maybe more, as the years pile on....maybe because it looks more familiar).

Not everything needs to be aluminum with 12 point ARP stainless hardware and all that, but sometimes that stuff is cool.


Rich H.

Esse Quam Videri




Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: Bad340fish] #2790239
06/28/20 11:27 AM
06/28/20 11:27 AM
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Summit has two covers from Spicer. This is the one I used: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-707233x

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: n20mstr] #2791746
07/02/20 12:06 AM
07/02/20 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by n20mstr


I want to see the fuel cell, Im very partial to A bodys and ANdy you make some very nice parts/pieces !

This is such a nice "modern" car. But i like "modern" with the "old" engine. Not a new gen hemi..LOL




Here is a picture of the fuel cell parts mocked up in location as well as a picture of the internal baffle for the fuel cell. I have almost all the parts on hand now, just need to weld it all together and then bolt it in the car.

DSC_4228 (Large).JPGDSC_4230 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2791909
07/02/20 12:39 PM
07/02/20 12:39 PM
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north of coder
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andy, how big are the holes in the baffles, top and [the] bottom [holes] ?
TIA !
beer

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2792009
07/02/20 07:48 PM
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I was having trouble installing the pinion back into the housing by myself so I made a tool that presses the pinion in place from the rear. With the pinion held in place I was able to tap the front bearing on and then tighten the nut on the yoke. I talked to a buddy who does rearends on a regular basis and he said he just has his helper hold the pinion so he can get the front bearing tapped into place. Strange Engr recommends polishing the pinion shaft so the front bearing slides on but I didn't have the tools to do that.

DSC_4231 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2792871
07/05/20 09:30 AM
07/05/20 09:30 AM
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Rittman Ohio
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Originally Posted by AndyF
I was having trouble installing the pinion back into the housing by myself so I made a tool that presses the pinion in place from the rear. With the pinion held in place I was able to tap the front bearing on and then tighten the nut on the yoke. I talked to a buddy who does rearends on a regular basis and he said he just has his helper hold the pinion so he can get the front bearing tapped into place. Strange Engr recommends polishing the pinion shaft so the front bearing slides on but I didn't have the tools to do that.


You don't have tools like a vice and a strip of emery cloth? That is all it takes to polish it until the bearing slides right on shruggy


64 Plymouth Savoy
493 Indy EZ's by Nick at Compu-Flow
5-Speed Richmond faceplate Liberty box
Dana 60
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2795515
07/11/20 03:37 PM
07/11/20 03:37 PM
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Rigged up an old fashioned torque wrench to double check the pinion pre-load. I have a small inch-lb torque wrench but the numbers are so small it is easy to fool yourself. A weight on a lever is hard to fool.

DSC_4241 (Large).JPG
Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: AndyF] #2795519
07/11/20 03:44 PM
07/11/20 03:44 PM
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Pattison Texas
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Originally Posted by AndyF
Rigged up an old fashioned torque wrench to double check the pinion pre-load. I have a small inch-lb torque wrench but the numbers are so small it is easy to fool yourself. A weight on a lever is hard to fool.


The problem with that way is there is a break away amount that is more than the actual turning torque, with new bearings on a 60 I like 20 in lbs turning

As Strange says, Rotational drag
The pinion nut needs to be torqued to 250 ft/lbs. With the pinion bearing properly lubricated, increase or decrease the shim stack under the front bearing cone to achieve 20-25 inch/lbs of rotational drag or pre-load. This adjustment is why we recommended polishing the area on the pinion where the bearing rests; it can greatly speed up this process if you don’t get it right the first, second, or even third time.

Last edited by csk; 07/11/20 03:47 PM.

1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI
512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim
2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5

Re: Starting to work on the Duster [Re: CSK] #2795533
07/11/20 04:24 PM
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Bend,OR USA
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Break away and rotational torque are two different things, a 1/4 inch short beam type inch lb. torque wrench works good for me on testing both of those both directions scope The hard part is how much torque to add for the dang adapters going from 1/4 inch to 3/8 to 1/2 and finally to 3/4 inch drive sockets confused grin


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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