Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: WadeMetzinger]
#2781035
06/03/20 12:12 PM
06/03/20 12:12 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,379 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,379
Las Vegas
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Question for you guys that have build KB and B1 motors, did you helicoil any of the threads in the heads or the block? No. The one thing to watch is adequate thread engagement into the block for sure. As for the heads unless they are REALLY old should be no need. Just had the small port(282cc)B1 heads on the dyno yesterday made good power for a tiny port. 937@6900
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#2781338
06/04/20 10:48 AM
06/04/20 10:48 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073 Tulsa, Ok
WadeMetzinger
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073
Tulsa, Ok
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Thanks Al for the response and others as well!
Intake, valve covers and Indy 2 piece valley tray power coated.
Heads were milled .040, oil passage in head tapped for 10/32 set screw that will be drilled .060 to restrict oil going to the heads. (need to mock up the heads and intake to see how much if and how much the intake needs to be milled)
Compression should be 12.46:1 after milling the head and getting the head chambers down to 64cc
#4 journal on the cam grooved for full time oiling
Rotating assembly balanced. (he took a lot of the weight off counter weights in the lathe but still had to drill a lot of holes) -2007 gram bob weight! o 2.100” rod journal as opposed to 2.200”, lighter rod and rod bearings o 4.360” bore as opposed to 4.5”, smaller and lighter piston o 3, 3, 9mm rings as opposed to 1/6, 1/6, 3/16 or .043, .043, 3/16
It’s setup for spin high rpms but I’m hoping to keep it well under 7,500. Shift at 7,200, I probably wouldn’t be able to do that if I would have had the heads fully ported.
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Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2781463
06/04/20 05:53 PM
06/04/20 05:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,379 Las Vegas
Al_Alguire
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 19,379
Las Vegas
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I would tend to agree with Cab and using the manufacturers recommendations for sure, especially when using nee pieces. I don't think you will need to see near the RPM you think you will. Have done a bunch of b1 stuff over the years and with those kinda cam specs id be willing to bet peak is closer to 7000-7200
"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
"It's never wrong to do the right thing"
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Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: Al_Alguire]
#2785746
06/15/20 02:48 PM
06/15/20 02:48 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073 Tulsa, Ok
WadeMetzinger
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073
Tulsa, Ok
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Al, That's much prettier than my rat tail filing I did to make room for the rivet.
I got 6 of the pistons installed over the weekend, I was really nervous about rolling an oil ring since they are so small but so far so good (I probably just jinxed myself).
.026 ring gap on both top and bottom rings per Total Seal, I think I had 2 end up being closer to .028-.029... oops
The main and rod called for just oil on the threads so it wasn't as messy as other motors.
The washer on the rod bolts is like 1/4" thick and didn't seem removable, so that was different, just had to take out the bolt, clean it, oil it and then install and torque it in 1 single motion to 75lbs. I didn't check the bolt stretch, they were just ARP2000 bolts. But I do use the bolt stretch method with using the custom age 625 bolts.
That was my first time to install the "dog bone" rear main seal, it was interesting but I think it's a good design.
There was a lot to torque on the block with the dual side bolts and the mains being 5/8". Man 120lbs torque was a work out, I could have used a longer torque wrench. (my daughter helped me oil all the threads and washers, she said she like all the oil on her hands and said if we could make a pool full of oil so she could swim in it and I proceeded to tell her that they do have oil wrestling evens to which she asked to go participate in... I left out the barely clothed women part)
Rod clearance was between .0028 - .0030 Main clearance was between .0029 - .0033
Here is how I check the clearance: 1. I checked the clearance by mic'ing the crank, locking the mic, recheck the crank and then put it in a soft jaw vice. 2. I then take a dial bore gauge and measure the main journal with the bearing and torqued at 12 and 6 position, and find the smallest measurement and Zero out the gauge and then recheck. 3. Then I take the dial bore gauge and measure the center of the mic pads that is held by the vice.
I have repeated this for all the main before but typically if it's in the .0025 - .003 range, I will just set the crank in dry and plasigauge the rest of the mains.
How do you guys check rod and main clearances?
.025 side clearance on the rods, still need to check the crank thrust clearance.
I feel like it's all down hill from here...
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Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: sasquatch]
#2785771
06/15/20 04:48 PM
06/15/20 04:48 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,287 Morrow, OH
markz528
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,287
Morrow, OH
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It looks might purty and I am jealous of your help!
67 Coronet 500 9.610 @ 139.20 mph 67 Coronet 500 (street car) 14.82 @ 94 mph 69 GTX (clone) - build in progress......
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Re: 508” KB – B1 build
[Re: Cab_Burge]
#2791018
06/30/20 02:28 PM
06/30/20 02:28 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073 Tulsa, Ok
WadeMetzinger
OP
top fuel
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OP
top fuel
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,073
Tulsa, Ok
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Not much progress to report (I spent the last week racing Jr dragsters with my daughter at the NHRA Western Conference Finals) but I did finish the bottom end, springs set up on the heads and checking for #8 bung placement for oil drain back lines from the heads. I have a new Milodon oil pump and Muscle motors cover for this motor but I think I'm just going to reuse the one I had on the 540" Frankenstein motor since it was working just fine and already set up. (I did pick up a new 4.25" stroke crank and 7.100" pistons from Molnar through Marsh Performance to put that motor back together for a back up) I'm not sure if the new owners of KB still do this but when I purchased mine, it came with head studs, oil pan stud and timing cover studs, which was really nice. - Anyone know of a kit or where to pick up bell housing studs? Since it's an aluminum block, I'd rather put studs in the block to mount the tranny too (J&W Ultrabell) rather than using 3/8 bolts. I found these on ARP's site, but they are for Top Fuel and 7/16 but didn't see any in 3/8 size: APR bell housing studs
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