Just thought I’d share my build with you guys. My car has been parked for 4 years while I focused on Jr dragster racing with my daughter and saving for parts to put this motor together.

Intake spacers are being fitted (what a pain in the butt) and the pistons and rods are back in production as the manufactures go back to production.

I'll still footbrake but my focus is mainly on NHRA 10.90 SST racing.

Let me hear your thought/opinions/questions on my build.

Block
- Keith Black aluminum RB 10.725” deck wet bock from 2014 (I think 440Jim and I were the last ones to get their blocks before they shutdown)
- Drilled lifter galley and tapped for oil restrictions
- Drilled for oil line access on top/back of block.

Heads
- B1 originals, Stage 1 hand porting by Scott Koffel, Ti Intake valves, T&D 1.7 rockers, flow 392 at .700 on Koffel’s flow bench

Intake
- B1 low deck intake with spacers (what a pain in the butt!!!)

Cam
- Strange Magic solid roller 4/7 swap .767/.767 276/288 110 Lobe Sep 180 Intake centerline
- Isky EZ-Roll Solid Bushing lifters
- Jessel Belt drive

Rotating Assembly
- Callies Magnum XL 4.25” with 2.100” rod journals
- GRP Rods 7.100”
- Diamond Pistons 4.360”, gas ported, .043 rings, tool steel pins --- 13.2:1 compression ----
- Coated Clevite sbc rod and Calico coated main bearing

Carb
- APD Max Speed billet carb, 1175 Gas or 1150 Alky (still trying to decide which way to go, I’ve been running alcohol for 20 years, my wife and daughters Jr both use alcohol so that would be carrying 2 different fuels, it will probably cost more and keeping it cool when double entering will be challenging.

Driveline
- PG (JW bell, JW case, BTE 1.80)
- 3.5” Strange Chromoly driveshaft with billet yokes and 1350 u-joint
- Dana 60 with Richmond 4.56 Pro gears
- Strange 35 spline axles
- Strange dual caliper brakes

Tires
- MT 14x32 Pro Bracket Radials

first I doubt you will have to run that engine hard to go 10.90. 2nd how easy was the intake spacers. Everyone says they are a piece of cake!!!!!! Birdtracker

Hoping it will run 10.90s at mid 140mphs (need to stay away from 150 as i don't have a chute).

The port on the spacer were smaller than the ports on the heads and intake and then getting all that lined up plus 2 gaskets was challenging so I called in a favor of a buddy with a Bridgeport and he's taking care of all that for me. (I hit the "Easy" button) In the future I'll probably have them welded up.

The thing that makes the intake spacers fun is it's not one angle. It's kinda like one angle going into the head and one into the intake manifold times 2. So 16 angles worth of work but it can be a thing of beauty when finished. On my build I had more work getting the pushrod clearance opened up.

Here are some flow bench numbers of several sets of heads I've had access to over the years. Jim Lewis is a local, but nationally know head porter of stocker head, so I use his bench so I can compare apples to apples. His bench is a little stingy but it makes it possible to compare different heads.

Wade that thing should go 10.90 in reverse...How much weight are you dragging? Todd

pittsburghracer - the Stage 1 porting included push-rod clearancing, i made sure to discuss that with Scott.

Todd - I think it will be 3,200lbs race weight. Fiberglass hood, doors, deck and lexan windows but it's still just a backhalf car with mild steel cage

What kind of car? It's not the cuda is it?

Curious as to why you chose the 4.360 bore vs. 4.50 bore size?

I went with 4.360 bore for a few reasons, mainly because if had I a failure, I may be able to just bore cylinders out and keep on going without having to replace sleeves. I took this approach on my Mega block and was able to bore from 4.350 to 4.440 when I broke a rod and then 4.440 to 4.50 when I dropped a valve. I also had a really nice set of Diamond pistons that were 4.360 that I was planning to use but when I decided to move to B1s, I had to buy new pistons. I asked Scott Koffel about the bore and he said it would be fine. I'm don't need 1,000hp so not trying to get every HP out of it. (I had Ken Black put the 4.5" darton sleeves in the block so they are just super super thick as they weren't the normal 4.5" sleeve they typically use.)

Yes, this is going in my 1971 Barracuda

Question for you guys, will I be able to use my header that I've been running with Indy -1s? (they are 2 1/4 so plenty big enough, just wasn't sure if they exhaust ports moved up or down from the -1s)

Fine looking machine right there!

Your going to have to try the headers, my car was the opposite do to it having a B1 motor in it before, those headers are 2 1/8 to 2 1/4 step and they fit and worked fine on the M.W. Victors and the new motor with the ported 440-1. I did have to dent them to clear the front frame tubes, it is a chrome moly tube chassis car, do to using a stock 400 block.
If yours won't work I may have another race set that will work in a stock chassis car
PM me if you need to

I look forward to hearing how your engine build goes. Are you going to dyno test it?

My block was s/n 426-538 and yours is 426-536, so very close together in Ken's shop. I was happy with his machine work on the block. Bore, deck height, mains, etc.
I expect you will have to clearance the block for the pushrods, my 440-1 heads needed a little more then Ken machined the block. My head opening is traced, but I only needed a little with the grinder right where my pushrod was touching (look carefully at my pic for the grinder).

I may have told you about my experience with the oil to the lifter galleys. Back then his blocks had the oil going around the rear cam bearing to the rear holes for the lifter galley. That special groove around the outside of the cam bearing was a nice restrictor and I didn't need any additional oil restricting for push rod oiling. I put an oil pressure gauge on the main oil supply galley (priority main oiling) and a second gauge on the top/back of the block while priming the system on the engine stand. Are you using spray bars for the B1 heads?

The one set of B1 intake spacers I saw had very small openings, and significant variation from one port to the next. A lot of material to remove, and the angled intake manifold bolt holes and port angles may need a hand grinder for final work after milling the spacers a little closer to size. This is what I saw (pic).

Trying to get more details from others for you.
Koffel's web site says, "The raised exhaust ports will accept a stock header flange."
The question is how much are these raised? (Compared to your previous Indy 440-1 heads)
I saved this from a post by TTI years ago,

They do a tall deck version of the B1 intake these days? The spacers are a pain, I helped a friend with his, we bolted his to the head with sealer.

Thanks for the explanation.

Along that line of thinking. I thought machining a counter bored hole in the spacer for an allen head bolt to allow screwing it to a matching threaded hole in the intake manifold. Then whenever the engine is taken apart, you just leave the intake and the spacers screwed together. And the final hand porting is done with the spacer screwed to the intake for a perfect match. The blue holes are what I am thinking. It doesn't need big allen head bolts, maybe 1/4", since the clamping is done by the original 3/8" intake bolts. Just enough to keep it together in the same location.

I would do that also but I would put the two holes under the center two intake bolts or beside them

My spacers plates are held in position with little split pins and I stamped them for port position for fast identification. Nothing fancy and works great.
.

They only made a run of a few and Scott has no plans to make more of them, no matter how much I beg him too