Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: mopar dave]
#2745466
02/22/20 12:49 PM
02/22/20 12:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,079 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
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Posts: 8,079
Tulsa OK
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I run a few flats of preload in mine and they do not make any noise. I always leave my shocks setup for the track so the front of my car rides like an old floaty lincoln and the back like a log wagon.
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2745611
02/22/20 09:26 PM
02/22/20 09:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,904 Pattison Texas
CSK
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Pattison Texas
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I am also running left & right 02's Holley HP ecu, I have it so they both read on my Holley dash & they are both on the data log. the ecu tunes off the left bank & with data log I have tuned the right bank to match the left. working great so far, but DO NOT adjust the throttle shafts or I will lose the right bank tuning. the right bank is my LM gauge I was using when it was carbed. Hilborn set up
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: DoctorDiff]
#2745626
02/22/20 09:59 PM
02/22/20 09:59 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,200 Oregon
AndyF
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Some of that noise may be caused by the Detroit Locker. Yeah I was wondering about that. I get a clunk out of the rearend when I shift into Reverse or Drive. Since the isn't moving I figure the clunk must be coming from some play in the driveline. Could be the Locker that clunks a little bit. The car doesn't have any carpet in it and the rear is all aluminum panels so a clunk in the rear end sounds pretty loud inside the car.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2745895
02/23/20 10:26 PM
02/23/20 10:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,904 Pattison Texas
CSK
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Pattison Texas
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Hey Andy, are you running sliders or stock type rear spring shackles ?
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2745933
02/24/20 12:31 AM
02/24/20 12:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,806 Moved to N.E. Tennessee
GomangoCuda
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Moved to N.E. Tennessee
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That could explain the clunking at low speeds, not sure if it is the clunk I hear during gear changes. When I put the car in reverse it clunks so I think that is the Locker since the car is barely moving. I don't think the Calvert setup would make any noise when the car is barely moving, especially in reverse. When driving at low speeds over rough pavement I hear a fair amount of clunking from the rear end and I'm guessing that noise is the Calvert load bar hitting the springs. From inside the car it all kind of sounds the same but I think the noises are caused by different things. I used to put a piece of heater hose on those load bars. Now I have a piece of 1/4" thick polyurethane glued to the top of the spring. The poly holds up better. .It doesn't bang on the 1-2 shift but it bangs hard on the 2-3 shift. Not sure why that is. I did try a 2-3 shift while I was on the throttle and it didn't bang so At part throttle the shift overlap between second and third will pull the load bar off of the spring and then slam it back down. Not nearly as noticable on a full throttle pass. That overlap is a balance of valve body, clutch pack springs, kd lever ratio, kd lever adjustment, kd spring. Careful here because if it doesn't have some overlap it will flare.
Last edited by GomangoCuda; 02/24/20 02:08 AM.
In theory, there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice, there is.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: GomangoCuda]
#2745963
02/24/20 01:53 AM
02/24/20 01:53 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,719 Bend,OR USA
Cab_Burge
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No over lap on the 2nd to 3rd gear shift is a good thing, especially at WOT Quicker at the track also When it starts to flare on the 2nd to 3rd gear change with a manual V.B.at part throttle or at WOT the front clutches need attention usually Love the T/A reverse manual V.B. for that reason
Last edited by Cab_Burge; 02/24/20 01:56 AM.
Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2746352
02/25/20 10:23 AM
02/25/20 10:23 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,079 Tulsa OK
Bad340fish
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Tulsa OK
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I just added a Holley g-meter today. Pretty slick device that Holley sells. It plugs into the EFI system and allows the computer to data log acceleration in both X and Y direction. This car won't pull big g numbers going around corners but it might be interesting to see how hard it pulls at the track. I think it is cool that I can buy stuff like this and plug it into the EFI system and then see it on the dash and in the data logs. Plug and play. https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/modules/parts/554-162 I have been wanting to add one as well. That isn't a bad price for a plug and play deal. A guy I know from Drag week picked up some really good data with one that really helped his combo. He dropped a tenth or more by lowering his shift points from G-force data. It's easy to get data hungry with an EFI system!
68 Barracuda Formula S 340
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: GomangoCuda]
#2754667
03/22/20 05:47 PM
03/22/20 05:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,200 Oregon
AndyF
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That could explain the clunking at low speeds, not sure if it is the clunk I hear during gear changes. When I put the car in reverse it clunks so I think that is the Locker since the car is barely moving. I don't think the Calvert setup would make any noise when the car is barely moving, especially in reverse. When driving at low speeds over rough pavement I hear a fair amount of clunking from the rear end and I'm guessing that noise is the Calvert load bar hitting the springs. From inside the car it all kind of sounds the same but I think the noises are caused by different things. I used to put a piece of heater hose on those load bars. Now I have a piece of 1/4" thick polyurethane glued to the top of the spring. The poly holds up better. .It doesn't bang on the 1-2 shift but it bangs hard on the 2-3 shift. Not sure why that is. I did try a 2-3 shift while I was on the throttle and it didn't bang so At part throttle the shift overlap between second and third will pull the load bar off of the spring and then slam it back down. Not nearly as noticable on a full throttle pass. That overlap is a balance of valve body, clutch pack springs, kd lever ratio, kd lever adjustment, kd spring. Careful here because if it doesn't have some overlap it will flare. I've put enough miles on the car now to figure out that the hard bang when shifting into third gear only happens when the transmission fluid is cold. After about 10 miles of driving the transmission temp is warm enough that the shift into 3rd isn't too bad. At anything over 10% throttle position the shift into 3rd feels just fine. When the trans is cold and with a closed throttle the shift into 3rd feel like car has been hit with a big hammer. Warm at closed throttle sounds bad but doesn't feel bad. Warm and part throttle the shift feels firm just like you expect from a shift kit. I haven't tried any full throttle shifts yet. I opened it up to about half throttle the other day and the 2-3 shift felt exactly like you would want it. So I'm thinking it is just the case of a race valve body plus Caltracs plus Detroit Locker being a harsh combination when used as a daily driver.
Last edited by AndyF; 03/22/20 05:49 PM.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2754713
03/22/20 07:19 PM
03/22/20 07:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,531 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
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So. Burlington, Vt.
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It always seemed to me the 2-3 shift was harder/clunkier when you were barely on the throttle....... and the converter is “coupled”. As soon as you give it a little gas to slip the converter a bit...... it smoothed right out.
The shift feel gets absorbed by the slipping converter.
I found it to be very predictable....... want a less harsh shift??? Just shift when your on the throttle a little.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: fast68plymouth]
#2754725
03/22/20 07:47 PM
03/22/20 07:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 31,200 Oregon
AndyF
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It always seemed to me the 2-3 shift was harder/clunkier when you were barely on the throttle....... and the converter is “coupled”. As soon as you give it a little gas to slip the converter a bit...... it smoothed right out.
The shift feel gets absorbed by the slipping converter.
I found it to be very predictable....... want a less harsh shift??? Just shift when your on the throttle a little. That works great in a heavy car but in a lighter car with a ton of torque a small amount of throttle opening means I'm on the move. Around town I'm leaving it in second a lot since the shift to 3rd is harsh and most speed limits are 35 to 40. 35 is okay in second gear but 40 is starting to buzz it a bit. 40 is fine in third if you're going to hold it for a bit. Full manual valve body means you're always working the shifter. It is an interesting driving experience. Different than what I'm used to.
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: AndyF]
#2754739
03/22/20 08:11 PM
03/22/20 08:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,531 So. Burlington, Vt.
fast68plymouth
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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So. Burlington, Vt.
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For just about all the street duty my car saw...... it had 4.10’s and 27” tires, and cams that were pretty happy putting along at pretty low speeds, although I used to run plenty of stall for the size of the cam.
I’d drive around on just about every road or street in high gear. I’d leave a stop light and it was one—two—three..... right into high......then leave it there til the next stop light. It seemed like the converter would keep the motor at the same rpm in all gears when I was driving around town. I was never cruising along at 30mph or so in 2nd with my combo....... I’d have shifted into 3rd.
The quickest the car was, while still seeing any kind of street duty was low to mid-11’s. So, you have a different animal there.
68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123 Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
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Re: Starting to work on the Duster
[Re: fast68plymouth]
#2754787
03/22/20 10:03 PM
03/22/20 10:03 PM
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,904 Pattison Texas
CSK
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The manual shift valve body I built for my street car uses the throttle pressure cable, easy driving no BANG shifts to the driveline, more throttle more pressure. but thats ok Andy , you never acknowledge anything I post on your threads. my car shifts very nice at low & part throttle.
Last edited by csk; 03/22/20 11:21 PM.
1968 Charger COLD A/C Hilborn EFI 512ci 9.7 compression, Stealth heads, 4.10 gear A518 ODtrans 4100lb,10.93 full street car trim 2020 T/A 392 Stock 11.79 @ 114.5
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