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10 sec 440 or 400 #2739590
02/04/20 11:07 AM
02/04/20 11:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 176
Ohio
4
440727 Offline OP
member
440727  Offline OP
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 176
Ohio
Hi, looking to build a 440 non stroker or 400 stroker with 440 crank.

Possible to do this and which the smarter and most cost effective route...?

Going in a B body

Thanks !

Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 440727] #2739593
02/04/20 11:10 AM
02/04/20 11:10 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 13,380
Marion, South Carolina [><]
an8sec70cuda Offline
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an8sec70cuda  Offline
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Marion, South Carolina [><]
Simpler to just stick w/ a 440. twocents


CHIP
'70 hemicuda, 575" Hemi, 727, Dana 60
'69 road runner, 440-6, 18 spline 4 speed, Dana 60
'71 Demon, 340, low gear 904, 8.75
'73 Chrysler New Yorker, 440, 727, 8.75
'90 Chevy 454SS Silverado, 476" BBC, TH400, 14 bolt
'06 GMC 2500HD LBZ Duramax
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 440727] #2739598
02/04/20 11:27 AM
02/04/20 11:27 AM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
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Thumperdart Offline
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Thumperdart  Offline
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My 470 is quicker and faster than a lot of those 500+ strokers and a beast on the street w/good old home ported rpm heads and a .680-.660 solid roll in the mid 9's plus fully street-able.....Fit's better in most engine bays as well....


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 440727] #2739603
02/04/20 11:43 AM
02/04/20 11:43 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
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BradH Offline
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Val-haul-ass... eventually
More info needed, such as...
- Auto or stick
- If auto, converter size & stall
- Gearing & tire size
- What parts you are starting with
- What parts you expect to keep
- What parts you're willing to replace
- Minimum fuel octane requirement and/or expected CR
- Track-only or street/strip
- Header size and exhaust requirements
- Hydraulic, solid flat-tappet, hyd roller or solid roller cam
- Car + driver weight
- What does the car run now, and with what current combination
- Approx. altitude of local track(s)
- REALISTIC BUDGET


Last edited by BradH; 02/04/20 11:48 AM.
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: an8sec70cuda] #2739630
02/04/20 01:01 PM
02/04/20 01:01 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,831
N.E. Ohio
6bblFLASH Offline
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N.E. Ohio
Originally Posted by an8sec70cuda
Simpler to just stick w/ a 440. twocents


ABSOLUTELY.

Need more info also.
Street only ?
StreetStrip?
Bracket car?
I am in the 9.70"s with a .030 440 with average heads .590 MP solid 6bbl. on 93 gas.But it's only 3,000lbs.
Strokers are an attractive nuisance LOL.
If starting with nothing stroker is just as cheap.
Budget build...decent piston and rods STOCK crank and go...

Last edited by 6bblFLASH; 02/04/20 02:59 PM.

70` Cuda`,440 6BBL Jerico,Dana 4.56 Still on 93 Pump Gas
9.87 @ 136/1.31-60ft.`09 Mopar Nationals PASSON PERFORMANCE "Stick-Shift" Champ!
2013 StickShift Challenge Winner@ Mopar Nationals!
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 6bblFLASH] #2739635
02/04/20 01:14 PM
02/04/20 01:14 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,513
So. Burlington, Vt.
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fast68plymouth Offline
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For a “race car” of reasonable weight, 10’s are a piece of cake.

Every consolation made for the sake of “streetability” will usually cost you some ET.

Thats where the bigger cube strokers start to make more sense.


68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 6bblFLASH] #2739644
02/04/20 01:33 PM
02/04/20 01:33 PM
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
S
StealthWedge67 Offline
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Puyallup, WA
Unless you already have the 440, The only things that strike me as easier with the 440 is sourcing the crank and intake choice. After that, almost every advantage goes to the B version.
If you’re going to start from scratch with either, intake selection would seem to be the only advantage to the 440, and that’s really only an issue if you’re working with Maxie port sizes. The 400 version is going to weigh less, it’s going to fit easier, it’s going to be marginally stronger in the bottom end, rotating assembly is lighter & bore size is going to be a little bigger so it should rev faster and make a little more power. Less weight up front makes it easier to transfer weight.
I vote for the B version. But I am admittedly a little bias since I run one. My car was an original 383 car, so I wanted to keep the orig look. Truth is you can build a really great 10-second B Body with either.


LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: StealthWedge67] #2739696
02/04/20 03:47 PM
02/04/20 03:47 PM
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,141
junction city oregon
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viperblue72 Offline
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junction city oregon
By the time you price out machining a crank, new rods, pistons, bearings, rings, and balancing, it’s a very small price difference to buy a stroker kit. In that case I’d do a 400.

Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 440727] #2739708
02/04/20 05:01 PM
02/04/20 05:01 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,269
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
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Bend,OR USA
The big advantage of using a good sonic tested 400 block is that you don't have to worry about cracking the main webbing like you do with a stock 440 block work
I've seen 3 RB blocks with crack main webbing and read about a bunch more of them from guys on here work
Think twice, build once up
I've built a bunch of 400 block stroker motors, if your shooting for north of 650 HP on pump gas invest in a good set of main caps, I like and use the aluminum ones with ARP main studs from 440 Source now up


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: Cab_Burge] #2739724
02/04/20 06:37 PM
02/04/20 06:37 PM
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 4,647
aotearoa
rebel Offline
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aotearoa
I'm a hardcore 400 kinda guy. My almost fully stock E body runs 10.5s easily with its 400/512 Molnar kit with MW Stage 6 heads & 850 carb.

Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: BradH] #2739858
02/05/20 08:41 AM
02/05/20 08:41 AM
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 176
Ohio
4
440727 Offline OP
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440727  Offline OP
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Posts: 176
Ohio
Originally Posted by BradH
More info needed, such as...
- Auto 727
- turbo action 2200 ?.... sorry been years since built on converter size & stall
- Gearing 3.91.... tire size 28
- What parts you are starting with..... have std bore 440 and 400 blocks
- What parts you expect to keep... rods
- What parts you're willing to replace.... everything
- Minimum fuel octane requirement 93 or higher and/or expected CR 10:1 plus
- street/strip
- Header size and exhaust requirements
- Hydraulic, solid flat-tappet, hyd roller or solid roller cam... whatever I need for the setup
- Car 3400 + 250 driver weight
- What does the car run now, and with what current combination 13.80 95mph
- Approx. altitude of local track(s) 1500ft
- REALISTIC BUDGET 7500k


Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: 440727] #2739889
02/05/20 10:41 AM
02/05/20 10:41 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
B
BradH Offline
Taking time off to work on my car
BradH  Offline
Taking time off to work on my car
B

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
Originally Posted by 440727
Originally Posted by BradH
More info needed, such as...
- Auto 727
- turbo action 2200 ?.... sorry been years since built on converter size & stall
- Gearing 3.91.... tire size 28
- What parts you are starting with..... have std bore 440 and 400 blocks
- What parts you expect to keep... rods
- What parts you're willing to replace.... everything
- Minimum fuel octane requirement 93 or higher and/or expected CR 10:1 plus
- street/strip
- Header size and exhaust requirements
- Hydraulic, solid flat-tappet, hyd roller or solid roller cam... whatever I need for the setup
- Car 3400 + 250 driver weight
- What does the car run now, and with what current combination 13.80 95mph
- Approx. altitude of local track(s) 1500ft
- REALISTIC BUDGET 7500k

'
Do you have a stock forged 440 3.75"-stroke crank?

And, I'll a$$ume you meant $7,500, not $7,500,000, for your budget.

Unless there's a lot more "behind the scenes" that's not covered above, you've got more than just an engine to build to make your goal.

EDIT: Off the top of my head while sitting in a long boring meeting that I don't really need to be in...

Machine work for acceptable core block: $750+
Stock-stroke OEM crank-based build (regrind good stock core, new rods, new budget forged pistons, new rings & bearings, balanced): $1800+
Budget aluminum standard-port heads prepped & "Stage 1" ported w/ hardware for solid flat-tappet cam: $1500
Good single-plane intake: $300+/-
Solid flat-tappet cam & lifters: $400+/-
Budget rocker arms & custom pushrods: $700
Budget "race" carburetor: $600+/-
2" headers and basic exhaust system: $1000+/-
Torque converter $700+/-
Trans rebuild & upgrade for street/strip use (includes valve body): $1500+

My s.w.a.g. estimate is $9250


IF you have some of this stuff already, or can get some of the items above for less $, adjust accordingly

IF you need to buy a new budget crank, regardless of 3.75" or stroker, add another $600 to price

IF you can't do the entire engine assembly work yourself, add another $1000 for shop to build

shruggy

Last edited by BradH; 02/05/20 11:09 AM.
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: rebel] #2739941
02/05/20 12:49 PM
02/05/20 12:49 PM
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
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Thumperdart Offline
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Thumperdart  Offline
I Live Here
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 19,318
State of confusion
Try a 1050+ cfm Dommy and get back with us.....


72 Dart 470 n/a BB stroker street car `THUMPER`...Check me out on FB Dominic Thumper for videos and lots of carb pics......760-900-3895.....
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: BradH] #2739945
02/05/20 12:58 PM
02/05/20 12:58 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,694
Wichita
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GY3 Offline
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GY3  Offline
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,694
Wichita
Originally Posted by BradH
Originally Posted by 440727
Originally Posted by BradH
More info needed, such as...
- Auto 727
- turbo action 2200 ?.... sorry been years since built on converter size & stall
- Gearing 3.91.... tire size 28
- What parts you are starting with..... have std bore 440 and 400 blocks
- What parts you expect to keep... rods
- What parts you're willing to replace.... everything
- Minimum fuel octane requirement 93 or higher and/or expected CR 10:1 plus
- street/strip
- Header size and exhaust requirements
- Hydraulic, solid flat-tappet, hyd roller or solid roller cam... whatever I need for the setup
- Car 3400 + 250 driver weight
- What does the car run now, and with what current combination 13.80 95mph
- Approx. altitude of local track(s) 1500ft
- REALISTIC BUDGET 7500k

'
Do you have a stock forged 440 3.75"-stroke crank?

And, I'll a$$ume you meant $7,500, not $7,500,000, for your budget.

Unless there's a lot more "behind the scenes" that's not covered above, you've got more than just an engine to build to make your goal.

EDIT: Off the top of my head while sitting in a long boring meeting that I don't really need to be in...

Machine work for acceptable core block: $750+
Stock-stroke OEM crank-based build (regrind good stock core, new rods, new budget forged pistons, new rings & bearings, balanced): $1800+
Budget aluminum standard-port heads prepped & "Stage 1" ported w/ hardware for solid flat-tappet cam: $1500
Good single-plane intake: $300+/-
Solid flat-tappet cam & lifters: $400+/-
Budget rocker arms & custom pushrods: $700
Budget "race" carburetor: $600+/-
2" headers and basic exhaust system: $1000+/-
Torque converter $700+/-
Trans rebuild & upgrade for street/strip use (includes valve body): $1500+

My s.w.a.g. estimate is $9250


IF you have some of this stuff already, or can get some of the items above for less $, adjust accordingly

IF you need to buy a new budget crank, regardless of 3.75" or stroker, add another $600 to price

IF you can't do the entire engine assembly work yourself, add another $1000 for shop to build

shruggy


Pretty accurate in my experience.


'63 Dodge 330
11.19 @ 121 mph
Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs.
10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.

Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: GY3] #2739949
02/05/20 01:07 PM
02/05/20 01:07 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 14,513
So. Burlington, Vt.
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fast68plymouth Offline
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fast68plymouth  Offline
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Don’t forget the wheels, tires, shocks, fuel, and ignition systems.


68 Satellite, 383 with stock 906’s, 3550lbs, 11.18@123
Dealer for Comp Cams/Indy Heads
Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: fast68plymouth] #2739962
02/05/20 01:25 PM
02/05/20 01:25 PM
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 4,694
Wichita
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GY3 Offline
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Wichita
Stealths will give you low 11's with a mild street build with "normal" street car weight and all the compromises that come with it.

Spray your way to mid 10's with a 150 shot and have something that you can drive to work every day.


'63 Dodge 330
11.19 @ 121 mph
Pump gas, n/a, through the mufflers on street tires with 3.54's. 3,600 lbs.
10.01 @ 133mph with a 250 shot of nitrous an a splash of race gas. 1.36 60 ft. 3,700 lbs.

Re: 10 sec 440 or 400 [Re: fast68plymouth] #2740064
02/05/20 06:05 PM
02/05/20 06:05 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
B
BradH Offline
Taking time off to work on my car
BradH  Offline
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Posts: 15,439
Val-haul-ass... eventually
Originally Posted by fast68plymouth
Don’t forget the wheels, tires, shocks, fuel, and ignition systems.

Yeah, I figured once I'd shown the potential to punch a hole through the $10K barrier w/o all that, I'd kind of made my point. laugh2







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