I am putting a dry sump r5p7 engine in my 69 dart. I want to make the car a front steer rack. I do not want a aftermarket k frame right now also want to keep the tortion bars. I know that switching the ball joints left to right will mess up the steering ackerman. I was wondering if anyone has any pictures of a corrected steering set up or a source for something that would work.

We're working on mine right now. We've made some changes and it seems like we have really helped Ackermann and bump steer. Mine has home made steering arms and a Pinto rack mounted inside the K frame.

I did a full conversion on a 65 Dart. Two, actually. You need a narrowed (-5 inch) rack from RJ race cars. About 225. Go to ForABodys only in the early a section and search for gregsdart posts. The narrowed rack will allow the use of stock lower and upper control arms. If you go Pinto , then stock length works. Pic of partially done unit. Ackerman correct, max bump steer 1/8 inch.Took a LONG time to get it right!

I plan on doing my 64 Coronet similar to yours, except I flipped steering arms side to side and then used original tie rod holes as an added bolt on for the extended arm that will be longer and closer to the tire. Saw the set up on a buddy’s car. Can’t remember who made his tho. What thickness of steel is that? Did you have to change upper control arms to get camber back? I’ll see if I can find the pictures I took of his. Jim.

hows these

Hello,
if you make the tie rod and lower control am pivot points the same length it will eliminate bump steer

I could be wrong but i believe the tie rods should be mounted further out. For the tires not to scrub when turning the line from ball joint center to tie rod center should be running in towards the center of the rear. So for the new location it would be where the red dot is on the picture.

I found this pic of the stuff bobs pro fab used to sell

Did one on a 68 dart back in late 70s. Later spool type K-frame, sway bar thru type. Pinto rack, reversed lca. Bolted inside the k and links almost straight out. Turning no problem, no shimmy backing, straight as a string at 131 mph. Secret is keeping the rack and links straight to the lca. The trouble starts when you angle the links back (tie rods). Perfect if the swivel on rack is in line with the torsion bar, it follows the same arc. I duplicated how it was on the Pinto, Ford already spent the millions getting it right. My buddy still has the car, might get him to take some pics.

Subscribing as I need to switch to a rack on my 68 Dart.

Any more pics and info would be great!

The position of the outer tie rod looks way better than just swapping arms side to side. Notice how it is more of a straight shot from rack to arm. I tried just swapping arms once, after car launched and wheels came down, bump steer took over and ended up in other lane. OP’s original pic isn’t too bad for location of tie rod pickup point, but I Would NOT ever do the stock A arm swap again. Jim.

Meeee 3.

Yes, ideally you want the rack back far enough the tie rods are straight as possible. On mine we are pretty much stuck since I am not going to change the K frame. Mine will be a ton better than it was.

Not sure I'm following this well. I think it said to swap the LCA left to right? Would this not put the brake strut rod in the wrong angles.
What spindles are you guys using for this mod for front steer?

No, you swap steering arms, not LCA's.

Makes more sense.

I'll read thru both posts again.

The bump steer would be horrendous, as has already been mentioned, the steering arms should be slightly past the ball joint centerline.

Anybody that wants to attempt this needs to be fluent in bump steer and Ackerman. Swapping the factory ball joints side to side will toe the wheel inward during a turn, not good. Make sure that Caster is set in the build 1st. Caster affects bump steer as well. Rack width depends on outer tie rod location. Proper outer tie rod location for optimized Ackerman needs to be established after establishing built in caster. But before rack width selection. In the end the steering arm outer tie rod location will be set with Ackerman and caster correct. Then the inner tie rod (socket joint) can be located in a parallelogram looking from the front using the outer tie rod, lower ball joint, inner control arm pivot, inner tie rod.
Doug

Tire turning more in didn’t happen on the dart. That happens if the rack is to far forward so the tie bars angle back. Then the tie rod tubes go over center, then the tire has to be pulled back. Happens backing up with wheels turned. But I agree 99% should not attempt this but if you do just look at the factory setup on the car you’re getting the rack from then duplicate as close as you can.

Yes you are right,to get Akerman the tie-rods ball joints and basically the differential yoke forms a triangle.

So the tie rod needs to be out pretty far,I had to use a different offset wheel on my 68`
Lower ball joints are swapped on bothe cars.
Cuda is drag only so could care less about Akerman drives superb at 137,hard on the brakes ,bouncing from a wheelstand.
68` is streetcar. drives really well,no complaints or unusual problems.

The basic challenges are ::::::: Rack wants/needs to be where the engine is
Tie-rod needs to be where the tire/wheel is.
Caster is an issue too........ to get all 3 at once.
On the Cuda the engine is back 9" so it allowed perfect bump-steer ZERO....
68` EVERYTHING is in the way, has some bump-steer but you don`t feel it. Been over 130 mph on the 2-lane many times. Drives just fine.