Re: WHY??
[Re: modelmakerinc]
#2664667
06/11/19 07:53 AM
06/11/19 07:53 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
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This is about 5 times in about a week of guys with intake sealing questions.
Many or most aftermarket intake castings need to be ground where they go over the end rails, this is very likely the cause of many non sealing intakes.
I use old/used valley trays with crushed sealing ridges. This adds a bit more clearance for the thin gaskets on both sides of the tray I will be watching to see if this may be a problem! Thanks for the heads up!
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Re: WHY??
[Re: mopower440]
#2664729
06/11/19 11:50 AM
06/11/19 11:50 AM
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Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,298 West Coast, USA
jbc426
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Hughes Engines sells a kit that allows you to figure out exactly what's going on between the two surfaces, manifold and heads. It consists of a small thread of crushable "Wax Wire" that doesn't spring back once crushed. The posts above on this thread contain a wealth of information on how to do an effective install once you've figured out the issue, or to skip the proper way and simply overcome the sealing issue with added sealant. Either way once your intake is effectively sealed, it doesn't really matter how you got there as long as it stays sealed. One step forward, two steps back seems to be a continuing theme with my Mopars. I just keep pushing forward, sometimes after a good pause. http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda #'s 440-6(block in storage)currently 493" 6 pack, Shaker, 5 speed Passon, 4.10's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 408 Magnum EFI with 4 speed automatic overdrive, 3800 stall lock-up converter and 4.30's (closest thing to an automatic 5 speed going)
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Re: WHY??
[Re: mopower440]
#2664732
06/11/19 12:01 PM
06/11/19 12:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 3,698 jersey
Spaceman Spiff
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jersey
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both sides & have your machinist check it for flatness but I would get the .015" ones first & mockup/measure & have him mill as needed which'll take care of the fitment & the flatness. Good luck on it. Do you guys noramlly have to mill new aluminum intakes everytime you buy one? It’s the only way to ensure it’s perfectly flat.
526 cubes of angry wedge, pushbutton shifted, 9 passenger killer!
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Re: WHY??
[Re: IcorkSOAK]
#2665316
06/12/19 09:24 PM
06/12/19 09:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
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I give up guys! I just give up! I put gaskets on both sides of the tray, made sure the intake wasnt hitting the hold down straps and STILL, same thing! Its better this time because before it wouldnt even stay running part throttle, where it will now, but it will NOT idle below about 1800 rpm..still leaking along the drivers side ports..maybe passenger also, i was too upset to even check. You know, ive been wanting an intake for the 25 years ive owned the damn car and finally get one and it refuses to work! Is there anyone on here that ports stock iron intakes? Thats about my only choice i guess if i choose to keep the car.
Last edited by mopower440; 06/12/19 10:01 PM.
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Re: WHY??
[Re: modelmakerinc]
#2665484
06/13/19 12:33 PM
06/13/19 12:33 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
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You said the the engine has been rebuilt. The heads if they have had a valve job, more than likely the heads have been surfaced and many shops when they bore an engine they will surface the deck. there is really no way of knowing from the computer what is going on with your application but maybe a few pictures of it apart and of the parts you are using could shed some light. or find the local MoPar guy and pick his brain or pay him to look at it. But if the heads or block got milled, how does the stock intake still work..no sealant or gaskets, just the tray? I never gave the machine shop the intake when they did my heads and block..
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Re: WHY??
[Re: mopower440]
#2665489
06/13/19 12:53 PM
06/13/19 12:53 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,564 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
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Here's what I've had to do on one Edelbrock intake that wouldn't seal. I used Ultimate Black RTV, put it on about 1/8" thick, let it set up overnight before installing intake. I had to push down on the intake to get the bolts to start but once I did it went on with no more vacuum leaks. Some intakes get through quality control that should never have gone out, but things happen. Give this a try, I think you'll have your intake sealed up.
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: WHY??
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#2665506
06/13/19 01:22 PM
06/13/19 01:22 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
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Here's what I've had to do on one Edelbrock intake that wouldn't seal. I used Ultimate Black RTV, put it on about 1/8" thick, let it set up overnight before installing intake. I had to push down on the intake to get the bolts to start but once I did it went on with no more vacuum leaks. Some intakes get through quality control that should never have gone out, but things happen. Give this a try, I think you'll have your intake sealed up. do I still use the paper gaskets? Also, which side of the tray do I use the bead of RTV because I'm not sure which side of the tray it's leaking on..?
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Re: WHY??
[Re: mopower440]
#2665511
06/13/19 01:28 PM
06/13/19 01:28 PM
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,564 God's Country Maryland
GODSCOUNTRY340
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I'd still use the paper gaskets with a light coating under the pan, then put a light coating on top of pan and place the top gasket onto that. Then apply the 1/8" completely around the port openings and the heat crossover. Let this set up over night and drop the intake on, push it down and tighten from the center out. Make sure you alternate from side to side as you tighten it down. If this doesn't work, I hope you're not trying to put a 383 intake onto a 440. (just joking).
I love the smell of Deer guts in the morning, it smells like... VICTORY!
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Re: WHY??
[Re: GODSCOUNTRY340]
#2665521
06/13/19 01:53 PM
06/13/19 01:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
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I'd still use the paper gaskets with a light coating under the pan, then put a light coating on top of pan and place the top gasket onto that. Then apply the 1/8" completely around the port openings and the heat crossover. Let this set up over night and drop the intake on, push it down and tighten from the center out. Make sure you alternate from side to side as you tighten it down. If this doesn't work, I hope you're not trying to poh put a 383 intake onto a 440. (just joking). haha, nah, it's got the 440 part number.ok, I have the paper gaskets glued to the tray already, so you think I should just do the 1/8 bead between the intake and gasket only, not between the head and gasket? Also, what sealant do you recommend for the 1/8 bead, the right stuff?
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Re: WHY??
[Re: mopower440]
#2665543
06/13/19 03:15 PM
06/13/19 03:15 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,025 S.E. Michigan
ZIPPY
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Posts: 18,025
S.E. Michigan
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Be advised, RTV is not resistant to gasoline. I'd pull it apart, clean it all up, lay the manifold on the heads dry and start checking with feeler gauges all around. Nice thing about it...you can reach underneath the intake and check for gaps with feeler gauges as well as on top. If it seems there is an impossible-to-see issue still, you can also reach underneath the intake (without the valley pan) with a flashlight, in total darkness, and you may be able to detect a gap somewhere by shining the light on it and observing from different angles. If something is cut at the wrong angle or what not, you might be able to find it doing this. You can try this, too. http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf
Rich H.
Esse Quam Videri
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