I will be watching to see if this may be a problem! Thanks for the heads up!

Jeez Modelmakerinc, that is one hospital grade sanitary engine!

Joe

well thanks but the picture was taken just after its installation, I assure you it does not look as sanitary now.

Hughes Engines sells a kit that allows you to figure out exactly what's going on between the two surfaces, manifold and heads. It consists of a small thread of crushable "Wax Wire" that doesn't spring back once crushed.

The posts above on this thread contain a wealth of information on how to do an effective install once you've figured out the issue, or to skip the proper way and simply overcome the sealing issue with added sealant.

Either way once your intake is effectively sealed, it doesn't really matter how you got there as long as it stays sealed.

One step forward, two steps back seems to be a continuing theme with my Mopars. I just keep pushing forward, sometimes after a good pause.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf

It’s the only way to ensure it’s perfectly flat.

Post a pic of the port face of the intake.... the SD intake has a special pattern on it

I give up guys! I just give up! I put gaskets on both sides of the tray, made sure the intake wasnt hitting the hold down straps and STILL, same thing! Its better this time because before it wouldnt even stay running part throttle, where it will now, but it will NOT idle below about 1800 rpm..still leaking along the drivers side ports..maybe passenger also, i was too upset to even check. You know, ive been wanting an intake for the 25 years ive owned the damn car and finally get one and it refuses to work! Is there anyone on here that ports stock iron intakes? Thats about my only choice i guess if i choose to keep the car.

Oh boy, I know this is frustrating. Has the engine ever been rebuilt? I had one with exactly the issue you are describing. The shop that decked the block not only screwed up the dimensions front to back, but side to side as well. A few thousands of an inch may not seem like much, but when all the tolerances stacked up it made for an intake that would never seal. I had given up on this ever running again. I had a friend look at it and knew right away what was going on. I got another block and got another machine shop. Lay the intake on the heads and check all around with feeler gauges. That will tell the tale.

I rebuilt it but had no machining done besides boring the cylinders. I had no problem with the stock intake sealing with nothing but the valley tray, but this aluminum will not!

i know this may sound crazy but did you alternate the tightening pattern side to side back to front.prob wont help but its easy to try

I did. I wish that was all it was. I REALLY wanted this intake.

You said the the engine has been rebuilt. The heads if they have had a valve job, more than likely the heads have been surfaced and many shops when they bore an engine they will surface the deck. there is really no way of knowing from the computer what is going on with your application but maybe a few pictures of it apart and of the parts you are using could shed some light. or find the local MoPar guy and pick his brain or pay him to look at it.

But if the heads or block got milled, how does the stock intake still work..no sealant or gaskets, just the tray? I never gave the machine shop the intake when they did my heads and block..

Here's what I've had to do on one Edelbrock intake that wouldn't seal. I used Ultimate Black RTV, put it on about 1/8" thick, let it set up overnight before installing intake. I had to push down on the intake to get the bolts to start but once I did it went on with no more vacuum leaks. Some intakes get through quality control that should never have gone out, but things happen. Give this a try, I think you'll have your intake sealed up.

do I still use the paper gaskets? Also, which side of the tray do I use the bead of RTV because I'm not sure which side of the tray it's leaking on..?

I'd still use the paper gaskets with a light coating under the pan, then put a light coating on top of pan and place the top gasket onto that. Then apply the 1/8" completely around the port openings and the heat crossover. Let this set up over night and drop the intake on, push it down and tighten from the center out. Make sure you alternate from side to side as you tighten it down. If this doesn't work, I hope you're not trying to put a 383 intake onto a 440. (just joking).

haha, nah, it's got the 440 part number.ok, I have the paper gaskets glued to the tray already, so you think I should just do the 1/8 bead between the intake and gasket only, not between the head and gasket? Also, what sealant do you recommend for the 1/8 bead, the right stuff?

Be advised, RTV is not resistant to gasoline.

I'd pull it apart, clean it all up, lay the manifold on the heads dry and start checking with feeler gauges all around.

Nice thing about it...you can reach underneath the intake and check for gaps with feeler gauges as well as on top.

If it seems there is an impossible-to-see issue still, you can also reach underneath the intake (without the valley pan)
with a flashlight, in total darkness, and you may be able to detect a gap somewhere by shining the light on it and
observing from different angles.

If something is cut at the wrong angle or what not, you might be able to find it doing this.

You can try this, too.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/TechArticles/INTAKE_MANIFOLD_SEALINGJULY2015.pdf

That's strange, it states right on the package good for intake manifold seals.

well, i brought home a can of 'The right stuff" and a tube of ultimate black RTV.. NOW, which to use.....?