Anybody know where I might be able to find some? I have looked around and have not found anything. Unless I am not looking in right spot? I know AMD has front glass and will get it from them when it comes time to change mine. But after working on bosses Anglia we switched to Lexan. I was surprised how lite it was compared to glass. Figured maybe do mine to get some weight off of my car. Thanks guys

Have you tried ProGlass?

Side glass is easy. Just cut it out. Doubt if anyone has a rear glass in Lexan as its a very unique piece.
Doug

Doug

So I am finding out on this car. My dad told me might get lucky and find something later model they could modify to fit in mine. The car he said his buddy had done was something later model and curve matched just had to trim it smaller. Told him doubt it on mine. Too odd of a shape. He thought maybe since it is rear window get a Piece of Lexan and heat it to fit the shape of my glass and install it. Too afraid to chance that one. Seeing how AMD only shows front glass. So If I screw it up I am outta luck. Thanks for input on this.

If you are going to drag this car and since the car is inherently light from the factory anyway, it is best that you leave the rear window just as it is for some weight assistance in that department.
I'd leave it alone and concentrate on the front shield and side glass.

Is the 62 Dart share the same window package?

Anybody know how many is enough for lexan rear window replicas to be worth making for a vendor, ie group buy?

If the same, i'd likely take a couple.

Most of the lexan window manufacturers will make the glass for you if you send them the original glass. The problem is shipping cost unless you are within driving distance of one. As DVW said the side windows are flat so get a sheet of lexan and cut them out yourself.

Fullmetal

Car is used on street but is not really a go somewhere car. More of a hot rod with blower setup on it. No interior and partial cage with engine moved back and rearend moved forward in it. Plus have a sub section on the rear tied into the front at the door hinge area with square tubing. Current setup is at 3740 pounds. So this is why figured while I am at it doing some body work on it and front window is pitted. Maybe change everything and get lighter.

Thanks

Are you sure about that running weight?
My friend who has an all steel original 62' Max wedge with full interior, full factory glass, cast iron ram horn exhaust and pipes all the way to the bumper, three speed, weighs in at more or less about 3300 Lbs on my digital scales.
Have you weighed your car on certified scales?
That's a bit heavy for such a car.

I know that Blowers can be heavy on a car though, but not that much. Is the partial cage full DOM steel?

Depending on the blower and extra carb with steel braided it must be over 100 lbs. Which blower are you using??
FMJ,My memory is in a bit of a haze but has the white unicorn stood upon your scales yet??

No, the Unicorn has not laid its heels on the scales yet. Funny you ask because it's back in his garage now and I was thinking of going over to have a world title weigh in, but we're both so so busy at the moment with a monumental group art show that we both can't breath. The Red Baron you posted above on the other hand is the one I weighed a couple of years back. Special K knows the exact numbers. Perhaps you can get the numbers from him.
Gotta go now.

Fullmetaljacket

Weight is correct on it. Went to local CAT certified truck scale that is close by. Car is all steel still. I think a lot of the weight comes from the tubs. MAN that guy I think used like 16 gauge on the tubs on it. Plus whole back of car has a new section on it for the suspension and goes from rear bumper forward to the door pillar area. Plus it has a cross brace hump in the middle of the tunnel behind the seats out of the same channel material. I also have dual tanks in the trunk. Street gas and race gas with two pumps. so I can switch between them depending how hard I want to run. Only one tank had fuel in it when I weighed it.. Beside that also have American Racing original cast wheels on it with the rears being modified to except the 18.5 wide tires I am running. So the weight is climbing quick. 440 block with iron heads and torqueflight tranny and a Dana 60. Plus disk brakes all around. That is why I think I am so heavy. First pic is before I painted floor and partial cage and put blower on it. Just remembered one more thing too. Because of being in Cali. I am running 4 mufflers on it to try and quiet it down and these are standard style mufflers than 3 1/2 inch o.d X 36 inch long glasspak style. Basically exhaust tips of mufflers end about a foot and a half before rear end. I loved it before and so did everyone who hears it. BUT Cali if you get too loud they make life miserable because of the import idiots. Up in mountains i doubt any problems as other hot rodders have told me but did not want to take a chance with some new guy officer wanting to make an image for himself.

Very Cool Car!

Truck scales tend to be not accurate at low weights, been there done that
I bought a pair of used CA certified 1000 Lb. warehouse scales that my old company had before I retired and moved up to Bend, I made a set of wooden platforms that are the same height as the scale tops and I now use them to scale my cars
Oregon has truck scales all over the state, they don't man them 24/7 and you can drive onto the scale and see the weight on a digital display on a pole outside the shack, my old pump gas Duster showed to be 200 lbs. heavier on them than on the certified race scales at Las Vegas drag strip 3 weeks later

Cab

That is possible about the scales. Seeing how they weight 80,000 lbs and more or less. I can easily see it not being as accurate with my lite weight. Just like torque wrenches not being as accurate if you at the very lowest scale on them. Better to get one where you are more centered on it to get accurate reading. We have a set of scales for our airplane with different setting locations and my boss thinks we can use these too check the weight also. Either way I know I am heavy because of the steel in the car and what is added too it. Just figured seeing about trying to get some weight off is all. A lot of people who see it like that is still an all original steel panel car. I always have temptation to get fiberglass parts for it to shave weight but keep going back to the idea of being original car panels on it. More unique this way.

Thanks

I've owned and race several different 1963 Plymouth M.W. Belveder, a sedan and a hardtop. The sedan needed to weigh 3320 without the driver back when NHRA weighed them according to the shipping weight, the hardtop needed to weigh a little more.
I converter the hardtop into a bracket car with a Alston 12 point cage, subframe connectors, full size steel wheel tubs to the stock subframes, moved the leaf springs into the sub frames and ended up using a Dana 70 with a posi unit in it and 5.13 gears,
That car weighed a little over 3550 lbs. without the driver with a single fibreglas seat with a small thin wall tubelar frame, no heater, radio, windshield wipers. It did have the stock door panels and full carpet inside up and over the rear package tray

I agree with Cab. That Savoy should be no more then 3500 Lbs even with the add ons, though that blower adds a lot in most cases. Those cars were super light and super short compared to their 63'-64'-65' siblings. Their uni-frame construction and smaller quarter panel real estate made for a lightweight contender.

I suspect a bad reading on those truck scales. I now have digital four wheel race scales that are accurate to every corner and overall weight. Weigh that bad boy again.

Sweet looking car.

One way to verify how far those commercial trucks scales are off is to weigh yourself on a good set of bathroom or Dr. Office scales and take the car back to the scales and weigh your self on them first and then drive the car on with you in it and see f they will weigh it again with you getting out of the car also then compare the weights against each other