My son and I added the Holley Sniper EFI to his Dart that was running a Holley 750 DP. We also installed the battery in the trunk as we wanted the room under the hood since later we will be adding a Super Charger to the car after we build the new eng this winter. We got these stud post as we ran the large battery cables right from the battery to these two post we mounted on the drivers fenderwell. That way we have two good post for a hot and ground right under the hood since the Sniper like the MSD wants good hot and ground hookups right off the battery. Instead of running the wires from them back to the battery in the trunk we have good connectors right under the hood and this setup worked great. He has been driving the car about a week and took it to the track the other day to see how it runs. The car has not been driven a lot yet as its still learning as its being driven but we always hear that carbs are faster. Well the best it has run on the carb was 11.41 @ 117 on a very good day. Its an 11.50 car on average days. The other night it ran 11.67 @ 115 which we figure is about a tenth slower. But it may get better as it learns more and we can also do a lot of tuning with it and are still finding out more we can do. But he loves it as the car drives awesome and everything about it he likes other then its a tad slower but he don't care because it will get a new eng and a supercharger later. He figures then he will beat me the old man. LOL. We wanted to get this EFI running before we pull this eng and supercharge the car. We also ran the starter on a separate cable using a Ford type starter solenoid in the trunk. Ron

Congrats on getting that running, driving and to the track. Tell your son to take a data log for every pass down the track and then he can look at the data logs on his laptop or desktop computer. The data log will show the RPM, air fuel ratio and things like that as he makes a pass. That way he can see how well it is tuned.

Are you controlling ignition timing with the Sniper? If not, you can buy the Hyperspark distributor and then you'll have full computer control of the timing.

Nice, Like Andy said I bet with some data logs and some fine tuning it will get much closer to the carbs performance. You will love the EFI way more once you see how easy you can change things, or change them back.

Good deal, congrats. Sure wish the pics were working!

Do you plan to put some plastic caps over the tops of the fender mounted battery studs? You never know where a dropped wrench will fall under the hood.

I had a Holley distributor tell me that I can use my Mopar distributor to trigger the Sniper. I just have to figure out how to lock out the advance. A plate will take care of the weights, and I'm considering taking off the vacuum advance can and making a cover plate.

Do you have any first hand experience with this?

He bought the dist for it to control timing which we will do later. For now I hooked the Sniper wire to the tach output on the MSD so the timing is working by the dist as it was before right now. We will control the timing by the Sniper when the supercharged eng goes in and might even install the Holley Sniper dist soon and let the Sniper control timing as all I have to do is install the Holley locked dist and then hook the dist pick-up to the Sniper and hook the sniper timing control wire to the white wire on the MSD. We may do it real soon. They actually recommend to first run the car without the Sniper controlling timing. I think we will change it soon and install the new locked dist and see if it can run better putting in the timing curve we what letting the Sniper control it. I may have to ask how and what program you all are using to download programs we took of the car running as it don't seem to want to work on our computer how we are doing it. But this is the first aftermarket EFI we have fooled with. Its really easy to intstall and wire up. Hardest part was making and running EFI fuel line. He bough a fuel tank with the in-tank fuel pump and it is working great as we have it at the recommended 58 psi. Thanks , Ron

Yes as that's a very good idea. I had my voltmeter clips on them checking the charging system and I noticed they can actually touch each other if not careful. So we will be doing that real soon. Ron

It is a bad idea to use a Mopar distributor to trigger the Sniper. Unless of course you want to get an education the hard way in how not to do things.

Work for me...

To view the data logs you need the Sniper software on your desktop or laptop PC. You can download the Sniper software from the support area in the Holley website. You record the data log on the Sniper by pushing the data log button. Then pop the SD card out of the hand held and put it in your computer. You need to know how to open up the SD card in your file manager and find the data logs but that is about the only trick.

Ah ok thanks Andy. Ron

I just got mine running on my 512. I wired the hyperspark in before I started it and I’m glad I did. I did cam break in and seated the rings with a holley 950, stock uncurved replacement mopar distributor set to 34° total, and a msd CD box. The newer sniper already has all the hyperspark settings figured out- dwell on the white trigger to the msd points input etc. The instructions say to unplug the fuel pumps and crank it to verify 15° before starting it. Well mine said ‘synching’ then fired up! It must have been wet from the previous key cycle when I went thru the fan trigger menus. Screw this I said and just plugged the pumps back in and started it. I had used the plastic rotor phasing tool thst comes with it. It fired off and was at 17.5° not bad- a little twist and I locked it down at the 15° the handheld was reporting. I bumped the idle to 22° using the map readout as a vac gauge and compared to the 12° or whatever the old distributor gave at a slightly choppy 900 rpm it warmed up and I reset it to 850 then 800 with just a touch of lope. Good stuff!

Radar

Thanks as we have the Hyperspark dist that came with the plastic clear cap to sync the dist. I think we will put it in real soon and get it going with that setup. Ron

I highly recommend the Hyperspark distributor. Using it will free you up from the constraints of the mechanical advance curve. You can have the engine idle at 25 degrees of timing with a short ramp to 35 at WOT and then add another 10 for freeway cruising if that is what you want. Only takes a couple of key strokes to set up rather than spending a day on the distributor machine.

You can either use the plastic cap trick for install or just crank the engine over to 30 degrees BTDC and then install the distributor with the rotor pointed towards #1 tower. That should get you close enough to fire the engine but you'll need to immediately put a timing light on it. You can set the static timing with the handheld to check with the timing light. Just freeze the timing at 20 or 30 degrees (wherever you have a good mark on the damper) and then check with the timing light. Once you have the actual timing matching what the Sniper says then you can unfreeze the timing and go hammer on it.

Thanks Andy as we do plan yo go a head and install that dist and let the Sniper control the timing real soon. I tell ya as a dealer tech most of my life I did most of the electronic work at my dealer and did data recordings all the time on the newer Mopars. But we could not change and modify anything on them as I just took recordings to figure out and fix the problems. The only changes came from Mopar as PCM flashes or we replaced the PCM. I am learning that so much can be changed and modified on this setup and my son is getting real good with it. Thanks for your help as he got the recordings from the track the other day downloaded and we looked at them on my computer. He said tell you thanks as we got it figured out after what you told us. But you sure can do a lot more with this then I was used to working at the dealer. Any PCM flash had to be emission certified before Mopar let us flash any. I could not believe how much you can change and modify on this setup. Ron

If you have a laptop with the Sniper software on it and the correct USB to CAN cable then you can hook your laptop up to the Sniper while the engine is running. Then you can watch everything in real time and tune it as you drive down the freeway. If you bought a Super Sniper the cable should be in the box. If you bought the base level Sniper then they charge you extra for the cable.

Thanks for the help Andy. We do appreciate it. Ron

Have your son sit in the passenger seat with the laptop hooked up while you drive the car down the freeway. He'll be able to change the ignition timing and the air fuel ratio while you're driving. You can just keep leaning it out until it complains and then richen it back up a bit. He can watch and see how much fuel it is using as you drive. It is the best way to tune a car that I know of since you can tune it while you drive and immediately feel the difference. Once you've done that a few times you'll really understand the tune.

I help install and tune a Sniper kit on a 505 inch Mopar big block today. This was a nice pump gas engine that is going to go into a New Yorker. It has a modest hyd roller cam, Trick Flow 240 heads, 9.8 compression and a Performer RPM. The Sniper kit was complete with Hyperspark distributor and ignition box. Started up perfectly and ran great. Zero issues with the Sniper install. We had it running first thing in the morning and finished all of the dyno pulls before lunch. Engine ended up making 570 hp and 640 ft-lbs of torque. Torque was over 600 ft-lbs from 3000 to 5000 rpm so that old New Yorker should really pull hard on the freeway on ramp!