Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: Supercuda]
#2636583
03/24/19 07:02 PM
03/24/19 07:02 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530 SW CO
HemiSportFury
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530
SW CO
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I've never had to use a press to change control arm bushings. Just a piece of pipe, all thread and large washers.
'64 Sport Fury, 528 Hemi, FiTech EFI, 4-speed, 4.10 Dana 60 '57 Belvedere 2dr sedan, current project in process '19 Cherokee Trail Hawk Elite '03 Ram 2500 CTD HO, 6-speed 214,000 miles and still going strong
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: mopower440]
#2636586
03/24/19 07:03 PM
03/24/19 07:03 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,707
Andrewh
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,707
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I like this idea! So they are literally ready to bolt back in the car besides painting them? Do they need primer first or is this coating on them ready to accept paint? These alone seem like they could help me a lot..Im not sure how hard the bushings would be to replace by our front end guy at work with our press so maybe have to do this.. Are they hard to replace even when you have a press? they don't need paint. http://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_upper_control_arms.htmlhttp://www.firmfeel.com/a_body_mopar_lower_control_arm_reinforcement.htmlbut it is a significant cost over pressing out and unscrewing pieces and bolting this stuff back in instead.
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: mopower440]
#2636626
03/24/19 08:43 PM
03/24/19 08:43 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
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Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277
Benton, IL.
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The torsion bars are not usually too hard to get out. But once in a while one will be difficult. I use a 1" rope clamp on them and hammer on it for the really difficult ones. Cheap, handy and effective.
Master, again and still
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: Montclaire]
#2636667
03/24/19 09:47 PM
03/24/19 09:47 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863 middle Tennessee
mopower440
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,863
middle Tennessee
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Some people (I think Eberg described them as "shivvy cretins") will clamp a vice grip onto the t-bar and smack it with a hammer to drive it out. You want to avoid this because any grooves that you cut into the bar can cause it to splinter later. The factory made a tool to remove the bars without damaging them, but there are other ways. ah, now i understand how they come out when you said they clamp vise grips to them and hit them to make them come out! Thank you! Now it makes sense..i wasnt sure what was meant about using a special tool to get them out.. SO, how does the special tool work without clamping onto them? (im hoping i can grab them and pull them out with my hands, but probably just wishful thinking)
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: mopower440]
#2636849
03/25/19 09:43 AM
03/25/19 09:43 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
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Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277
Benton, IL.
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I have removed and helped remove literally dozens and dozens ( heck, maybe hundreds) of torsion bars over the years but have never seen one of the factory tools 'in the field'. And I have seen many bars with serious marks on them from previous removals. But in all my years working on these cars, I can only remember seeing a couple of broken bars. And we often used old 6 cylinder bars under our big blocks along with weak shocks to 'help' with the launch. Torsion bars are not indestructible, but they are really tough.
Usually, removing the lower control arm shaft nut and then prying the LCA back and forth will break the torsion bar loose enough to be able to work it on back and then on out of the sockets. But occasionally, a bar will resist coming out of the sockets enough that it will require being driven back. That means getting a hold of the round shaft with enough grip that a hammer can be deployed. This is where the Vice Grips can come in. And they can work, but will leave deep gouges in the bar. Definitely not good.
The challenge is to be able to grip the round bar with enough grip to be able to hammer it back and yet not damage the bar.
Rope clamps are about the only handy items I know of that have enough grip on the bar without damaging the bar so that it can be driven out. And I have seen bars stuck bad enough that they needed 2 rope clamps backing each other to provide enough grip.
For a guy like the OP that is only likely to pull one set of bars, what are his choices to remove a difficult bar without damaging it?
Master, again and still
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: DaveRS23]
#2636863
03/25/19 09:59 AM
03/25/19 09:59 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318 Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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For a guy like the OP that is only likely to pull one set of bars, what are his choices to remove a difficult bar without damaging it?
I made a poor man's tool. Took two pieces of 2x4 and screwed them together to make a 4x4. Drilled a hole down the middle through the seam where the two meet. Drill the hole with a wood bit a smaller diameter than your bars. I can't remember what size I used, 3/4 probably. Clamp the pieces of wood around the bar and fire in a couple screws to keep the wood aligned. Then clamp the hell out of it with 3 or 4 big c-clamps. Then hammer away on the wood. Do it right and the wood can grab good but not mark up the bar.
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: mopower440]
#2637076
03/25/19 06:40 PM
03/25/19 06:40 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530 SW CO
HemiSportFury
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 530
SW CO
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Both sides the same. CCW to loosen. Righty tighty and lefty loosy.
'64 Sport Fury, 528 Hemi, FiTech EFI, 4-speed, 4.10 Dana 60 '57 Belvedere 2dr sedan, current project in process '19 Cherokee Trail Hawk Elite '03 Ram 2500 CTD HO, 6-speed 214,000 miles and still going strong
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: mopower440]
#2637621
03/27/19 09:36 AM
03/27/19 09:36 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277 Benton, IL.
DaveRS23
Special needs idiot
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Special needs idiot
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,277
Benton, IL.
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I have only used Moog for many, many years, but they are now made overseas and I actually got a counterfeit set a couple of years ago.
Proforged is my go-to ball joint now. Available at most places including Rockauto, Amazon and Jegs.
Master, again and still
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: DaveRS23]
#2637627
03/27/19 09:47 AM
03/27/19 09:47 AM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,982 Scranton, PA
Montclaire
master
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master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 7,982
Scranton, PA
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I buy a lot from Rock Auto, only one issue so far when I got the wrong product in the right box. Since Moog is crap anymore I just buy what's ever middle of the pack price-wise. I'm guessing it would take most of us a couple decades to put 40-50k on the odometer, so really what does it matter.
Last edited by Montclaire; 03/27/19 09:49 AM.
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Re: Cant drive my dart anymore
[Re: challenger70]
#2638758
03/30/19 10:24 AM
03/30/19 10:24 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840 The Swamp
Sixpak
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,840
The Swamp
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If you are removing the lower control arms then there is no need for a special tool to remove to torsion bars. Loosen the big nut holding the lca pin that goes thru the k member WITH THE T BAR AT FULL TENSION. That will help to hold the pin in place and not spin if the LCA bushing is tore up. Once the nut is cracked loose on the LCA pin, THEN loosen the t bar adjuster. Pull the clip out of the end of the t bar socket on the trans x member. Unbolt the lower BJ from the spindle or remove the lower bj from the control arm.. Unbolt the control arm strut from the k frame. Use a big pry bar, screwdriver, tie rod fork, whatever, and pry between the k frame and lower control arm. The t bar will come out with the lower control arm. If you are going to replace the bushings, REPLACE THEM ALL - STRUT ROD, LOWER CTL ARM AND UPPER CTL ARM. Yea. it's a lot, but all of them are important to hold the alignment - any of them shot and all your other work is for nothing.
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