Thanks everyone for your feedback!

Bad340fish, yep, I already spoke to Jim this morning and taking it to him as soon as I get the motor back in. He said he may put a B-body tie rods on it as well as checking out all the other components.

wade get a copy of the old direct connection race manuals. this is called bump steer and it does cost et not much but some. the race manual show you how to map your front end out from all the way up to all the way down. you have to raise or lower the point of contact from the outer tire rod to the spindle. there are people that sell bump steer kits they work too. google bump steer

Yes good parts are a must. But it is not just the contributing factor. when coming down it is going threw a caster change and a toe change. the thing is to minimize toe change (bump steer).info in mopar chassis book.
dougs car has very little bump steer. oops saw someone beat me to that.

Check the rear alignment too - it may be driving the car slightly to the side.

I have used the manual on many cars, PIA to do, but it does help. Best fix is rack and pinion, but lots of geometry issues with that too.

My opinion on the fix for the wobble is to limit how high the wheelies goes up, limit it to a 1 or 2 inches and it won't do that

The video of the challenger is from 2010 and I've done some work on it since then. Replacing all the bushes including the idler arm helped but didn't eliminate it. Limiting travel helps but may cause traction issues, especially with Caltracs.I also found out that E bodys use 2 different Pitman arms on manual steering boxes and they have to match the idler arm or the heights are different, this will mess up the bumpsteer as each side will then do it's own thing. At the same time, I flipped the tie rod ball joint/steering link bar to help with toe out on extension, but it still does it, though to a much lesser degree. I'm replacing the stock K member with a QA1 tubular after a big wheelie elongated cracked the LCA/torsion bar pivot mount, maybe this will help. IMHO, the only way to eliminate it entirely is going to a strut type front. HTH's

DVW, do you know about how much toe-in/out change you have throughout your suspension travel range? [/quote]

Less than 1/8" though out the travel. Mine will wobble slightly if the front rebound is to loose. A few more thought. Adding caster on a traditional Mopar front suspension brings the outer tie rods closer to the ground. Depending on your car this may help or hurt the situation. Mine has heims in place of the outer tie rods to lower the tie rods. In my case it was pretty close to start with.
Doug

I have these on my car and it still does it. I think it happens when there is very little weight on the front tires.

If you will go back and look at old Hemi Challenge races, before they tied them down so much, almost all of the SS/AH cars did it at the time.

Here is a slow motion leave for my car and you can see them wobble.

This is probably aggravated by the fact the most of us run so little toe in. My car has had the bump steer corrected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TB47w1GF6TY&feature=youtu.be

A steering damper, like is used on VW's and Monte Carlo's. Used to see that problem a lot on old straight axle drag cars. Basically it's a sideways shock absorber.

My truck started doing the death wobble thing. Put a new steering damper on it and it was cured. Very simple setup.

If you watch it's not the wheels going left, right, left,etc like a straight axle would. They to in together, out together. It's not just Mopar's. Anything that has A-arm style steering using linkage. I don't think I've seen a strut car do it. Or for that matter one with Rack and pinion. I still believe its caused by load from track width change and flex (most of it in the steering linkage). When mine does do it looks similar to the video posted by 340 Cuda above.
Doug

When my Valiant was doing this I tightened the top control arm bolts super tight and it cured it.

My buddy's 68 Barracuda did the same exact thing. It would eventually loosen the bolts holding on the steering box. The fix is simple but sadly it's been a few years and I can't remember it all. Maybe it's bump steer? Maybe the fix was rod ends for the outer ball joints. Sorry I can't remember the exact process.

Wade as I recall. A B-body strg knuckle is 1" taller than an A-body. This will help the upper control arm. As it will shorten it's travel arc. The B-body will work if you already have the large upper ball jnt.

wade i have noticed that your front tires lean in more than mine do. Although they both seem to look fine when parked. That might be a function of different brand of front end parts?

Wade's photo is from Mary Robinson(I had to crop it out to make it fit)

looks like the upper bump stops are gone, or have been cut down

FWIW, watching the second video of the Challenger, take a look at the LCA at 30-32 secs. in. Sure looks like odd movement. Like it's stretching forward in the air and gets slammed toward the back on touch down. After that, the wheels look like they are wobbling in sync and independently of the suspension. Looks like a steering issue from here. Carry on...

My upper bump stops are cut down to almost down to the numb for more travel.

In my opinion that is A LOT of the problem, that car hooks good, replace the bump stops & play with the rebound on front shocks.good double adj shocks would be the best, bet the car would et better