I know when Calvert first came out with CalTracs years ago, he was recommending stiff multi-leaf springs with minimal arch and stiff shocks to keep the chassis separation to a minimum ("Wasted motion").

However, most of the pics I see these days of leaf-spring Stock Eliminator cars that are using CalTracs or Assassin Bars w/ similar ETs as my car show quite a bit of separation... almost as much as you'd see from the old SS springs or slapper bars setups.

I'm all ears here, folks.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for. I am not super fast, 1.41-1.45 60.ft. This pass was 1.43 10.35

https://youtu.be/rYA-Ipb1GWE

That looks Great to me !!!!!

Cal Track by nature of it's instant center location will always separate. The trick is controlling the speed of that separation with shock rebound.
Doug

Short front segment compared to GM cars. Always going to hit the tire hard. You need a good shock to control it all...

Dont you have a post that you want a "cheap" shock ?

Smh..lmfao !

Tony - Not sure what "smh" means, but I'll take a guess it means you think I'm an idjit.

EDIT: I already have "cheap" shocks. What I asked in the other post is recommendations for a reasonable and -- yes, affordable -- upgrade from what I have now.

Your times are very close to mine, so it's a good comparison. Are those CalTrac (Rancho) 9-way adjustables?

Did you notice your slicks try to unload shortly after the hit? See if you can slo-mo starting about the :58 mark. At least that's what I think I'm seeing.

I saw the same thing

Shaking My Head.

Not at all, just giving you a hard time.....lol
If I thought someone was an idiot, I wouldn't reply

My sons duster has cal tracks with their split mono. He's got Afco double adj in the rear. They have to be quite stiff to control the hit, and he's been 1.45 10.99 . Honestly I think he needs more shock at this point. Look at this way , it's cheaper in the long run to buy santuff a or big gun Afros once, than buying Viking ,strange, or reg afcos.

Maybe Shiloh (White Dart) will chime in. His car works great and hauls the mail.

My Roadrunner runs 10.90's (Heavy POS) hits the tires hard (4-speed) and I control everything with the shocks.

I had my sliders where yours are.If you watch the slider it maxes out at the hit almost inloading the tire.I moved the slider so that it is 80/20.
I want a go-pro for Christmas!!!!!
Also,I went Viking with the stiffer valving for the rear.

I think the shocks needed tightened up, I had them probably 3-4 clicks from full tight. A couple of runs later I tightened them up and improved 60ft. Made 3 10.19 passes in a row after tightening them up.

The key is to keep the tire planted.. controlling the rate of separation is Paramount.. you don't want to drive the tire into the ground

Look at how rise in the rear of a drag car gets less and less the faster the car gets.
As acceleration decreases in a slower car, controled seperation keeps the tire loaded enough for good traction. Once you get enough weight and g force planting those tires to get the front off the ground, you don't need any. It takes virtually no seperation and about eight inches of forward travel in my dart to get there. My carhas the power to keep the tires planted very early. A high 10 sec car not as much. Every car and situation will vary.

I agree with Greg, there are big differences between a 2800lb 8sec car that scales well and a nose heavy 3800lb 12 sec car.

In my case, it's a low-to-mid 10-sec 3800# nose-heavy car.

Brad that comment was not pointed at you.

If I was buying shocks for your car I would buy probably buy double adjustable AFCOs.

My best 60ft has been a 1.33. It is always in the low 1.30's and I am using Rancho 9 ways on the back. I am using home made caltracs with stock leaf springs and shackles. I am running Drag Radial tires.

I didn't take it as an insult; I just wanted to add some context on what I am (or, should be) running.

Found this article that I think is applicable to my original question: https://www.racepagesdigital.com/extensi...feet-at-a-time/