Just double checking to make sure there isn’t some commin knowledge thing I missed.

Just bought a pair of stealths along with the 10 degree retailers and locks,composite .0:39 head gaskets,the better seals and the head bolts with washers needed for their heads.
Bolting a performer RPM to them and still deciding on headers.

I used to use a steel shim felpro header gasket back in the day for headers,any reason not to with aluminum?

Am I missing anything going from 906s to the Stealths?

Looks like you are only missing the CNC porting..

Check pushrod clearance before final assembly especially if running 3/8 which you probably should

Flip the head over and test fit your head gasket on the head to make sure the fire ring isn’t in the chamber. Common with the Felpro 1009 gasket

No porting for these,I figured at $500 a head I would be about the same money as adding big valves and hardened seats to my 906s but flow much better.

I did just start a low deck stroker build and thinking trick flow for that but porting still might be out of reach.

I will check pushrods and head gaskets,thx

I’ve had three sets of Stealth heads on my flowbench and they max out around 267 cfm@.700 lift. With very little effort they can easily go 300 plus.

Brian wo, now there is a name from a long time ago...

Not important

A few old timers are still out there 😃

Dead on!

Was not $1000 for the pair..

Definitely need the harden head bolt washers
I haven't and probably won't use beaded steel head gaskets on aluminum heads
How about port matching the intake ports to the intake gaskets and check that gasket to the intake manifold to make sure the manifold ports are NOT bigger than the head ports
Same thing on the exhaust side, make sure the header flanges holes are bigger than the head exhaust ports are
On the size of the header pipes you CAN"T go to big
Especially on a street car

Probably all good things to check but will my carbide bits I used on steel heads work on aluminum or will I need something less aggressive?

You can use the normal steel spec carbide bits on aluminum but they will clog easily. Normally for grinding aluminum you would use coarser bits. You can sort of work around it by applying oil to the bit while grinding on the aluminum, and it will also self clean if you try grinding steel between passes on the aluminum.

Candle wax on the burrs help keep the aluminum from sticking to them on both steel or the coarser aluminum burrs
I have both and only use the aluminum coarse burrs on aluminum, same on the finer cut carbide steel burrs on cast iron or steel

The one I have his pretty course,I know last time I used it the iron chips were just a flying :-)

I don’t get to do anything until at least Friday,my work schedule is 8 on then 6 off,for the first time in 22yrs I actually have time to do things.

Heads are here and the gaskets look good on them,12hr work days doesn’t leave much time to work on them but I bought a pneumatic valve spring compressor and started swapping retainers and locks yesterday but figured I was wasting my time since the bowls need a little clean up and I will have to pull the valves right back out to do that.

Little nervous about grinding so close to the seats on brand new heads,guess I better go get me some good readers before I start.

Definitely a name from the past

Blowncuda, is that you?

Looks like good head(s).....

WO...Might want to consider:
Hand Lap the valves and then put a 30 degree backcut on the valves up to the lap line.

First time with aluminum heads:

make sure you subtract at least a few thousandths from your recommended lash spec for growth. I didn’t subtract enough and had a pushrod kick out once my 451 warmed up for the first time.

Tape the seats before you get after the bowls with the grinder. Tape won’t stop a burr, but it may save your bacon in the case of a split second “ooops”.

I would NOT use shim style gaskets at the headers or anywhere else on aluminum.

As long as you’re where you’re at:

Before you install the heads, check PtoV clearance for future upgrade potential.

CC the chambers to be certain your compression is where you want it.

Started fooling with them overnight,the plan was just to upgrade the locks and retainers to 10 degree but then I saw the lip that is left where the machining stopped,this picture was in process shot,at the bottom going right you can see that I knocked the lip off that is clearly visible when you look at the left side.
Boy does the aluminum fly when the carbide tip touches the head,very light slow touch and it’s going quick.l