Just freshened up my engine and reinstalled the engine today and there is a slight drip on engine side of AR Engineering solid motor plate. Water pump side to motor plate is dry.Everything is all bolted together. Motor plate to bracket, engine to trans.
Is there anything I can do to stop it instead of lifting up the engine and removing all bolts and studs from water pump, and 4 motor plate bolts to brackets?
I really don't want to have to jack up the engine and get the weight off the motor plate ears?

Any tricks to seal it up?

Moroso makes some ceramic sealer that will take care of that. I had some leakage between my heads and block. Followed the directions and not a drop since.

Jack it up, replace gaskets and seal it up. Do it right and forget about it. Shouldn't have to undo anything else.

Tighten the bolts a little tighter.

I've had the same issue with a lot of motors using elephant ears, get a tube of Alumnaseal radiator stop leak and use it

I usually run my engines for three years between rebuilding them and those plates leak after about 1 1/2 seasons. Tightening the bolts never help and sealers are a temporary fix and I end up removing the plate and sealing it the right way. Lots of torque on those plates. For now on every winter I am going to remove the plate as scheduled maintenance and be done with it.

Stop Leak.. I use a can of it on every engine
I use

Yes of course or the morso ceramic sealer like said above, but the ceramic seal is probably overkill.

Nothing wrong with either.

You should use Superformance gaskets on the plate. Mine don't leak a drop and I just installed them dry with zero sealer

Gus

Good point. I guess I assumed the OP used good gaskets. If the gaskets aren't good then pull it apart and use the good gaskets and you shouldn't have any leaks.

Everything is off and ready to jack up the engine, where would you jack it from? What's safe?
Can't use a cherry picker at this time?

I use the gm block sealer tablets.

I use these also with great results.

This is what I use, if I use anything. I hate putting any of that crap in my cooling system. I have used a smear of silicone to smooth and fill corrosion pits and other imperfections in old castings. Used FelPro gaskets, dry, on stuff on the front of the engine. Also, some teflon on the threads of fasteners going into a wet hole. Stays dry as a popcorn fart.

Superformance gaskets - use a little edelbrock gasket tack to hold them in place for ease of installation and that's all you need - best dam gaskets on the planet!

Put a board under oil pan then raise engine with floor jack. Dont have to raise it much, just enough to get weight off engine plate.

This is what I was planning.
Scares me to put this much weight with trans, attached on a aluminum pan.
I'll go real slow.

A bottle jack & a board on each side, coming up to the pan bolts.

We will see if it leaks tomorrow.
Pulled everything apart and RTV with 2 new gaskets on each side.
Floor jack with wood under oil pan wasn't too bad.

Leak us a thing of the past.
Thanks for all the help.
I did it the correct way and put an extra gasket on the block side with RTV.