So, about 4 years ago I bought a 3 core Champion 26" replacement radiator for my '70 Superbee. It took a tiny bit of massaging to the brackets, but it mounted to the core support just fine. Now that the car is finished, my 440 is running hot, so I ordered a factory fan shroud thinking that since the radiator fit the firewall, the shroud would bolt right up. Indeed it did. One issue. The L brackets that you screw it into pull the shroud back about 3/4" from the face of the radiator. It's fine on the sides, but it leaves a gap at the top and bottom. Not too sure what brain surgeon figured out this would be okay. So the 1970 shroud has an odd design. On the top hump where it is supposed to touch the rear face of the radiator there are these gaps all along the curved area (see photo). Not sure what they are for. Venting? The definitely don't line up with the grooves in the old core. So I have this gap at the top and bottom that looks ridiculous. What did you do to adapt yours to the stock shroud? Now that I have 100 bones tied up in this beautiful Classic Industries OEM shroud, I ain't going to order tin. If you sell these radiators or have fixed your problem WITH THE STOCK SHROUD, or if you think you are awesome and have a good idea BESIDES ORDERING TIN, please step up to the plate and tell me what you would do.

The first picture is of an OEM setup and the second picture is my debacle.

Lindy

Get an OEM set up

have the side brackets modified so they set closer to the core

Have the same setup and problem. I got some 1 inch thick black foam from Lowes and put it in the gap. Works and looks ok. Comes in a roll and has adhesive on one side.

Got any photos? I'm all about the Lowes fix! I actually purchased some aluminum plate to fill the gap with but shaping it will be time consuming. I'd like to see what you've done.

Buy a Griffin.

How come I can't see the photos? Are my settings okay?

I can't see them either

I can see the pics.
Wow Champion must have fixed that problem. I've used a few of the radiators as of late including a 70 B 26" and they didn't have that gap.

I think an OEM would be your best bet, plus it would look better in your (really nice!) car. A correct replacment would be $1,200.00 from Glen-Ray, a less expensive alternative but close would be a random numbered vintage OEM with a new recore job which you could probably get for half as much.

Its amazing how people love to spend other people's money..... which is fine if you are independently rich.

Go for the Lowes fix. It will work but not look as good as some of the other suggestions. I have a Champion in my '64 Polara. It's a 22" and since I'm cheap I spent about $12 and built my own custom fit shroud. A little left over 18 gauge sheet metal, some rivets, and the whole thing is encapsulated in two layers of fiberglass and resin. Looks better than the OEM in my opinion and works.

I Agree.

I would cut off the aluminum brackets and make some like in the above post or cut them off and have them welded closer to the radiator.

Well, you've either gotta move the radiator mounting flange closer, step the shroud flange, or fab/buy some kind of gap filler to use your existing parts. Foam or a rubber seal secured to the shroud is another alternative. The problem with a filler is that the shroud is pretty thin at top & bottom for a filler mounting surface. Whatever you use also needs to be OK against radiator heat.

Hey, I'm not spending anyone's money, only offering ideas & suggestions (see title of thread).

*Champion's have thier place, I just bought one for my test engine. I've seen Lindy's car, it's nice and mostly original looking and IMO (I am allowed to offer MY opinion right?) he should go with a stock one.

I wasn't picking on you. There have been others who suggested replacing his radiator too. Just saying that its easy for someone... anyone to suggest spending tons of money to fix a simple problem.

By the way... nice looking early hemi.

The problem is the radiator. Not the shroud.

It's running hot.

Wonder why?

It's a "Champion".

'Nuff said.

Same problem here...
Trim the sides of the shroud so it fits inside the radiator brackets.
L tabs bolted to the existing threaded shroud mounting holes will hold it there.

Doubt its the radiator alone. I run a Champion 3 core in my 512 never gets over 185. I run the same shroud w/a derale mech race fan. Didn't worry about the gap.

I've driven it on the street and hot lapped it at the track in low to mid 90 degree days

Same here. Haven't had any cooling issues with a few Champions.
I agree that his is probably another issue.

Hey guys, thank you for all the great suggestions here. I think I’m going to just try to The top and bottom with a piece of sheet aluminum or the foam like was suggested for now. I’ve worked hard enough on the engine compartment that I don’t want it to look goofy. Scott, I really do want to get an OEM radiator but it’s going to have to be on the back burner for a couple years. It’s kind of crummy. I had a 26 inch radiator out of a 70 fury but I missed placed it while moving. It was in perfect shape too!

Champion radiators actually get pretty good reviews for Performance. They just look like heck. The welds are good but they treat the fins like crap on their assembly line. It is running hot but I think the reason it is, is because of the pump. I bought an aluminum water pump off eBay and I think it’s probably either spinning backwards or it’s just a piece of crap! But I thought if I could get them shroud on there maybe it would correct the problem enough to where I can enjoy the car instead of letting it sit.