Good Afternoon All

Prepping my '68 Super Bee for the trip to the Nationals.

Swapped in LED Taillights in place of the 1157's. Added the proper turn signal flasher. All is well except for one gremlin that I cannot find.

When the turn signal is activated, The rear tail light will flash, however, the opposite side (rear) will also flash dim.

I remember back in the day that the addition of additional ground wires was sometimes needed to make the tail lamps work properly. Had a '69 D100 that I had to do that to.

Added additional ground wires to ground the socket to the frame, but that did not solve the issue.

Thoughts anyone?

All replies appreciated.

Omni

Change your 4 way flasher as well?

Do the 4 ways work fine? I went to LED in my car (not a mopar) and had to change the flasher and 4 way flasher to make them work. I don't get the clicking sound when they are activated, but everything else works correctly. I would like them to make the clicking noise, but not at the expense of something else not working.

ON my Cuda, I changed out both flashers. However, on the turn signal flasher plug in, I had to cross the 2 wires. You can stick in 2 pigtail wires and cross them, or you can remove the 2 wires and switch them around in the plastic terminal. It made a difference on those 2 wires for me. LED lights are finicky with voltage flow vs incand lights.
Also, I do get the clicking sound.

Good Evening All

I believe that I have found the solution for my 'ghost blinker'. I contacted the supplier that I purchased the lamps from (LEDTRONICS). There advice was to purchase load resistors for each bulb. According their site, these resistors produce heat so they must be mounted away from anything that is combustible or can melt. Having redone the car, I wasn't thrilled about mounting something like this in the trunk. Also the thought of modifying new wire harnesses didn't excite me either. I thought that it might be back feeding through the brake switch, so I disconnected the wires with no change. The addition of ground wires from the socket to the body also did not solve the issue.

I had to figure out how to add SOME resistance without a lot of modification. When I installed the LED's I also installed them in the side marker lights. When the turn signal was activated the side makers would also 'ghost blink'. Perhaps if I reinstalled an incandescent lamp in the side markers that would be enough resistance. I swapped them out and it worked!

So the '68 has two incandescent lamps for the rear side markers and two LED's in the front. No more 'ghost flashing and the stop/turn signal lamps are BRIGHT. I installed red LED's behind the red lenses and they work great.

Thanks to all who responded. The more opinions you can get, the better decisions you can make.

OMNI

Looks like he did

My side marker lights don't blink with the blinkers on my car. I didn't have to add any resistors at all. The only bulbs I didn't swap were the blinker ones in the dash and headlights are still regular ones. I got mine from superbrightleds.com and no issues. I had my son drive the car down the road to see how they compared and daughter hitting brakes and blinkers in the driveway to see them as well. No ghost blinking at all. Maybe the ones in the dash that are still incandescent make a difference or maybe it's the LED flasher from the company I got the bulbs from, who knows? I do know with the electronic LED flasher from AutoZone and standard front blinker bulbs (LED in the rest), I got the clicking sound. When I went to LED those flashers didn't work right so I installed the ones from the superbrightleds and now they work fine except no sound.

There are two types of flashers out there, the old style mechanicals like our cars came with. These have issues with LED lights as they use current flow thru the flasher to make them work. Half assed fixes like load resistors are used to up the current flow and crutch the flasher into woring.

The other type are HD flashers, for towing and such. These do not use current flow thru the flasher to make them work. They are electronic in nature and function properly with LEDs.

Just because you changed the flashers doesn't mean you put in the electronic ones.

Example flasher

This is the type of flasher I used which requires a ground. I replaced both flasher units and I have the clicking sound. Plus, on the turn signal flasher, I had to switch the leads. All other Ebody owners had to do same. LED lights like current going in one direction. Incand lights can go either direction, thus switching the wires. Should not ever have to use resistors for our old cars. Late model cars may need resistors.

https://www.amazon.com/CEC-Industries-Electronic-Flasher-Compatible/dp/B00JXLH7CG

Switching the leads had nothing to do with the LEDs and everything to do with the flasher.

In it's stock setup one lead has 12V on it the other lead goes to the light. The OEM flasher is nothing more than a bimetallic strip that opens and closes contact as it heats up and cools off due to current flowing thru it to the bulb. LED's do not draw much current and will not work the OE style flasher.

If you swap the leads on the flasher you still have one lead with 12v and one going to the bulb. The difference is not how current flows thru the LED's, still the same as DC flows in one direction from negative to positive, but rather which pin on the flasher is getting the 12V and which pin on the flasher is going to the LED's on the flasher. Unlike the old school bimetallic strip in the OE flasher which is not polarity sensitive, the new fancy flasher is polarity sensitive and they appeared to have gotten the pins swapped for some odd reason.

Switching the leads on mine made all the difference. I learned this from other Ebody postings. Maybe it was the EF32RL flasher that required the wires to be switched, maybe another flasher would not require it. Im only reporting my experience. I guess it was magic they worked great when I switched the wires. Otherwise, they flashed once per 6 seconds.
This is from a LED seller if the bulb does not work:

This step is the simplest way to figure out if your bulb is defective or not. You simply just rotate the bulb 180 degrees to see if the bulb will light up.

Now you may ask why it is necessary to do this, well most LED bulbs are polarity sensitive, which means they will only work when the positive pin matches up with the positive side of the socket/plug you are putting the bulb into.

I got all mine to work on the first try. Good odds or maybe the bulbs weren't polarity sensitive?

Yes, the bulbs are polarity sensitive. LED is Light Emitting Diode and diodes only work with current flow in one direction. But you weren't talking about that.