Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: Neil]
#2453281
02/18/18 12:33 AM
02/18/18 12:33 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808 Wisconsin
wkroncke17
OP
master
|
OP
master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,808
Wisconsin
|
I have no experience with tumblers, but I do know Evaporust works great for rust removal. I have used that before but on bigger parts and it does work fabulous! I have some yet, maybe I should try it first?? I though I would need the tumbler for the small parts to get them reall clean???
|
|
|
Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: wkroncke17]
#2453293
02/18/18 01:01 AM
02/18/18 01:01 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 637 SoMd, USA
135sohc
mopar
|
mopar
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 637
SoMd, USA
|
I have this one. https://www.harborfreight.com/5-lb-metal-vibrator-tumbler-67617.htmlIt does work. I took some nasty crusty hardware and used the green resin diamond cubed media also from HFT. Stuff comes out clean without the artificially bright shine from a wheel. NOISY as hell and not a fast process though. Its really something you have to use out in the shed far away from anyone and let it run 12-24 hours per batch depending upon how crusty things are.
|
|
|
Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: wkroncke17]
#2457882
02/26/18 02:42 PM
02/26/18 02:42 PM
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319 Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
|
master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
|
I have the Harbor Freight vibratory one, works pretty well. But a while back I got myself a blast cabinet. Much quicker and I seem to like using it for some reason. I haven’t reached for the tumbler since getting the blaster, but I’m sure they both have their place.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
|
|
|
Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: wkroncke17]
#2458226
02/27/18 01:51 AM
02/27/18 01:51 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
|
Vinegar works very well on small parts. BTDT a few hundred times. Cheap too.
Simple steps:
1. Remove all grease and loose rust with dish soap and tooth brush. 2. Immerse in vinegar. Check progress each half day or so. If part still not clean but rust can be scraped off with a knife, do so. Re-immerse. Remove when clean, a few days. Phosphated parts take a little more time to strip off the old phosphating (ignore the stink). 3. Hand wire brush all over wearing gloves. Never touch a clean part with bare fingers. 4. When part is clean and wire brushed with no fingerprints, it is ready for re-paint, re-plate, or re-phosphate. Parts that have been wire brushed will not re-rust for a few weeks or months if kept indoors in air conditioning.
Photos show parts after wire brushing. Only fasteners are shown, but this process works on other small parts just as well.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
|
|
|
Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: Alaskan_TA]
#2458263
02/27/18 08:46 AM
02/27/18 08:46 AM
|
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020 Pangaea
B5 Bee
master
|
master
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,020
Pangaea
|
If you do get one, try the barrel type.
I have tried the vibratory type & I am not impressed. I have a vibratory type. I had poor results when I used it for the small parts on a Carter BBD rebuild. I don't recall what media I had in it but it did clean my .38 and 9mm brass well.
|
|
|
Re: Harbor Freight tumbler for small rusty parts???
[Re: wkroncke17]
#2458723
02/28/18 05:04 AM
02/28/18 05:04 AM
|
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655 Cut and Shoot, TX
kentj340
top fuel
|
top fuel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,655
Cut and Shoot, TX
|
WOW!! That is some damn nice work, and great advice! Are those parts black phosphate coated? Thank you Kent! Yes, manganese phosphate, I think, from Allegheny Arsenal. At first I tried phosphating on a propane camp stove, but found it impossible to control the temperature at 200 degrees, just below boiling. When the phosphating solution boiled, the chemicals precipitated out of solution, which didn't totally ruin it, but wasn't what's wanted. Found a large electric fry skillet at a garage sale, and this works very well with excellent temperature control and a double stainless pot set up, a pot within a pot, as in photo. Still used the camp stove for boiling water as a pre-heat before parts dipping in the phosphating solution. Oiling after phosphating is recommended, but I don't think it helps much. Besides, on body bolts to be painted, you wouldn't want oil on those, which leads me to guess that original phosphated fasteners probably weren't oiled.
If you don't see two dolphins, you need a vacation.
|
|
|
|
|