I would have to ask, what caused the failures if cheating was a good option? I saw three Golds split the fulcrum wide open in one race weekend. They did break where they were clearanced, but that wouldn't have been necessary had the geometry been corrected. I measured for him at the track, and the shaft was .205" too low, and that was with Edelbrock RPMs. It was pounding the valvetrain like a jackhammer, and I suspect that is what happened to the adjuster side on yours also.

As far as cost of the kit and pushrods, I'd say you far exceeded that with the damage shown in those two photos. Just my observation.

If it was .205 too low how far away from the valve do you move the shaft?

Don't answer that if it gives away secret stuff.

It depends on a few different factors, so that's why I ask for all the measurements I do before making a kit. If it was just how much the shaft is raised, it would be a simple trig formula.

Btw, I don't recall what his offset needed to be anymore. That particular case was a couple years ago.

[quote=B3RE]I would have to ask, what caused the failures if cheating was a good option? I saw three Golds split the fulcrum wide open in one race weekend. They did break where they were clearanced, but that wouldn't have been necessary had the geometry been corrected. I measured for him at the track, and the shaft was .205" too low, and that was with Edelbrock RPMs. It was pounding the valvetrain like a jackhammer, and I suspect that is what happened to the adjuster side on yours also.

I’m not arguing that you’re solution isn’t superior .
Those rockers were 15 years old when they broke. The first picture is what happens when you only check for coil bind on one cylinder head🤪
My point was that clearacing the rocker was not the failure point. I agree that poor geometry could have contributed to the breakage. But... at the age of the rockers, I figured I had gotten my moneys worth out of them. They had been on a few engines and several different incarnations of this engine.

I do have a question for you. How do you move the rockershaft fore/aft as needed without the bolts being in alignment? Never saw a complete pic/ explaination on that one.

The bolt holes in the shaft have to be elongated to allow the shafts to move laterally. It would be nice to be able to get offset shaft for a reasonable price, if at all anymore, but the bolt holes can be elongated up to .125" without reducing the wall thickness too much.

For my custom T&D stuff, I can get a .050" offset shaft for long valve big block applications. Unfortunately, they don't offer them for small blocks, not even the W2 stuff.

Look at this pic....

A current listing on ebay, looks like old school band aid stuff or ? but still cool.
Listed at 150 obo.

The real old rb stuff used those. OEM.

Im not a BB guy, thats very interesting, thanks.

I wonder if one had some good ones one could do some adjusting.

Here is a picture with the geometry kit installed. Clearance issue is fixed and the roller lines up perfectly on the valve tip. I haven't checked the sweep pattern yet, but will post a picture when I do.



https://drive.google.com/open?id=17C_kVwZBup5W85MyB9V8dPHqdlLJBN_p


thanks for everyone's feedback.
-Ray

Very nice.

Please post the sweep results with pictures if you can

Here is a better picture...

Before Geometry Kit

https://drive.google.com/open?id=19R9m13c3scnmtIi-pbCDkAY7VpA_I3EW

After Geometry Kit

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qq_HoLhbtyj47AYYCJyzq2QUC0kqkvU-

And best of all...no grinding.