Seems like most everyone on this board isn't listening to you. They all want you to build a $12,000 aluminum head stroker motor. (I like those too.) Your build should cost almost nothing. I can't believe you can't find a complete running 383 for what you paid to tear your motor down. Used 383 rods are free. People throw them outside. 906 heads are nearly free. Might cost a 2 digit number. What you are wanting to build can be done for a little of nothing if you find some good ole Mopar boys that have had that garbage sitting around forever and know they are never going to use it. And from looking at the stage your car is in it looks like you have some time to shop for bargains. Happy hunting.

YOu aren;t listening to him either.

He wants a stroker 383, assembled and dynoed for him.

No way will that be some bargain, dirt cheap deal.

If he was building the stock 383 you seem to think he wants, then yeah it could be a cheap deal if he could scrounge the parts and didn't go crazy on machine work. This means he builds it, not someone else builds it for him.

Most Ive ever paid for a 383 was 4K. 6K for a 451 stroker.

There was a fresh,warmed over, stock appearing 383 with auto trans, k frame, complete disc brake set up that came out of a 69 roadrunner for 4,500. Guy went with a hellcat conversion.

I could check, but Im fairly certain its long gone being that was back in october

Have you done a stroker in 2017? I imagine it is even more in 2018. I had a stock 340 short block built and heads done separately 3 years ago and it cost $5200 including parts by a very good shop then I assembled the rest. Hard to find cheap decent pistons and pretty much every part is twice what it used to be. Machining, buying parts, and assembling engines nowadays ain't cheap!

IMO...... The real first step in this process is figuring just what the budget for the complete motor is(carb to pan, dist, wires, plugs, oil, everything), and see if what you "want" for an engine combo can be done competently for that amount of money.
Sometimes(often times), the budget and the desires aren't on the same page(filet mignon tastes with a McD's budget).

In that situation, the budget or the build goals need to be adjusted to make it all work.

In the end, it usually comes down to what can you spend....... And what's the best build you can do for your requirements that will fit within your budget.

You are correct that 906 heads are cheap and 383 rods are often free. I've thrown away boxes of 383 rods so if someone was standing next to the dumpster I would've gladly handed them the rods if they wanted them. I just gave away a 400 cast crank the other day and probably have another one in the shop that I'd give away. So sure, someone could show up at my shop with $500 and drive away with rods, crank, block and heads to build a 383.

But somehow I don't think that is the point of the thread. If the guy who bought all of my throw away parts takes them to a race engine builder who is swamped with work the story doesn't end well. Nobody who builds race engines for a living wants to mess around with a bunch of 50 year old parts that a guy drags in. Especially if the engine builder has a wait list 30 guys deep who want drag race or circle track engines ready for spring. It just isn't going to happen.

Now maybe the OP can find an older guy in the back of the local NAPA store who operates at a slower pace and doesn't mind futzing around rebuilding 383 rods and putting new seats in some old 906 heads. Those guys are around but you have to search a little bit to find them.

Best advice I have is that if someone wants a stock rebuild type of engine and they want it done right for very little money then they need to ask around at some local car clubs for a name. There are retired guys out there who don't mind working for $20 an hour putting together old engines. But I don't think you're going to find cheap labor at a busy race shop. You are either going to get a high quote, or no quote at all.

I don't mind putting seats in 906 heads at all.

I'll be shipping out a nice set of rebuilt 906's today that are destined for a Daytona Charger.

More $$$ than RPM heads....... But these are really what should be on that car.

I don't mind rebuilding stock heads at all....... But it's often not the least expensive path.
Just because the heads are old doesn't mean the shop labor rate is any less.

Exactly, that is my point. The OP can find a shop that will rebuild his old engine but it is going to cost as much or more than if he bought new parts.

On the flip side, I recently came across a retired machinist in the local area who rebuilds transmissions for $300 plus parts. He operates out of his own garage shop so overhead is low and he takes his time but does a good job. So guys like that are around, but finding them can be a little difficult since they don't spend money on advertising.

Like a 383 stock eliminator motor as seen in my original 4 speed 70 383 Challenger RT/SE? I might want to switch to a different combo, maybe a 440 or a 340 as the cost to build good motors are all roughly the same. You might want to get in touch with me!

Eric

Im not sure what "napa" machine shops you guys know of but my local on has 11 full time workers in the machine shop and very modern equipment and are always a month out.

The other direction from me is a machine works that works on things from Lycoming aircraft motors to locomotive motors.

Really who here on this site thats a regular poster is building real race motors?

Like it or not 90% of us here on this site are miles behind the curve with our china made stroker kits (including myself).

The more I thought about it, what about all the junk hard blocked, girdles and other band aids on 40 year old block most here run?

Up to a certain power level alot of oem parts can be made to work and work well, just not here on moparts.

Some folks here just seem to have swollen heads and ego-s at times and like to ride the gravy train vs getting there hands dirty.

What's the shop labor rate there?

Modern equipment is expensive, and so are employees, so I doubt they're working for peanuts.

Be interesting to hear an estimate on a build like this:
383 Engine kit with trw 2315's and upgraded cam.
Strip and clean block
Deck block
Torque and check rods
Torque and check mains
Bore and hone
Grind crank
Balance rotating assy
Recondition heads w-hp springs and hardened ex seats

Clean all tin, rocker gear, intake, pulleys, etc

Then add $1500-2000 for a complete assy and dyno test(since that's what the OP says he wants).

This isn't a high dollar build here. If you were closer, I'd be happy to tackle this job for you and give you a run stand tested motor that's ready to drop in.

I'm a cheap sob and got lucky and found a rebuilt 383 with low miles on a rebuild. Redid the whole thing in my garage, measured bores, cleaned, deglazed cyls and dropped my muscle motors balanced stroker kit right in. Threw a set of 440 source heads on it and lunati voodoo cam for about $5k.

I think your miss what some have said. Its not that it has to cost that much, it just finding someone competent to do it.

Actually, my 915s should be on that motor.

If it helps at all, all the machine work on my block other than a quick pass on the deck surfaces was done at Napa. That included cleaning the block, bore and hone, line bore and new cam bearings installed. If I can remember right, it was around $800 about 6 years ago. I do know one of the long time employees at the location; I think they ran my work through one of their larger accounts which probably nocked $100-$200 off my bill.

A friend I know put the motor together and before we even took the block into his shop, he put it in his truck, took it to another local machine shop he deals with and had a quick pass made on the deck surfaces just to ensure the best seal possible. I think that was another $100 give or take.

Buy a DONE motor somebody has dumped a ton of money into, give the $.50 on the Dollar. For 10k you can get a kick ash GenIII hemi dropped on your doorstep

No it takes 5500-6000. At least from me it does.

Block,heads,int etc cleaned
Deck Squared and cut to 0 deck depending on piston.
Align hone
Honed with plates
Balance assy
Crank repaired as needed.
Recondition con rods w/arp bolts
oil pump dr shaft bushing.
All clearances checked and assemble eng. Cam c/l checked and degreed
Cam broke in on run stand, usually about 2 hrs of run time

Iron cyl heads comp rebuilt incl guides and hard exh seats CC to comp ratio choosen. Usually 9.5 for 93 octane

New perf bearings incl cam [Clevite or King],custom (Icon) forged pistons and moly rings Hastings or Total seal.
New Cam, Lunati,Comp,SP or Mopar. Hyd lifters and new pushrods
New SP rockers and shafts
New Timing set roller
New mopar perf oil pump dr
New melling oil pump
New manley valve springs and hardened valve locks.
New superformance and fel pro seals and gaskets.

I prob forgot a couple things but basically that is the package.

440 engines are about 500.00 more. Taking orders now for next season.
Tons of options available.

The OPs problem ( and others like him ) is likely because where he lives.
In the tri-county area around Detroit you can get engines and transmissions built all day for a lot less. Excellent machine shops, a bunch of talent to build those engines and transmissions, and the best head shops in the country for hand or CNC porting.

He needs to get his stuff packed up and get it to the Motor City, or at least another city with a bunch of talent - especially retired talent.