It seems there are 2 posible setups to install it... I can't recall the difference between both

Is it posible somebody enlight me about that ?

You want stage 2. I always thought stage 1 was too soft.

Dan...

Stage "2" is the one to use

But what are the differences driving between 1 and 2

Upping the line pressure is probably the most important thing to longevity, assuming that is important to you. Some of the kits have the stiffer pressure spring and some do not.

The only possible down side to higher line pressure is the possibility of different shift points between 1st and 2nd and 2nd and 3rd commonly called split shifts.

Isn't the first set-up for trucks and towing? I think the second combo is the one you want, although I usually use the TF-3 kit. As long as the line pressure is enough to handle the load, the rest is not as big a deal.

What are your goals?

my car is ( or will be again ) a driver though is a stroked 400 with 440 crank... 282HDP crower cam and MP 175K converter on 27" wheels with 3.55 SG... A/C. ( 74 Charger )

just want to get fun with it and still be the "perfect" driver... I guess this kit also reduce the crossover between shifts, so should get better "mileage" somehow (if can be that posible LOL ) ? I think I don't care to get a harder shift, but still decent for comfort on car. Trying to get the best of both worlds I guess

still not sure what differences could be felt if choosing stage 1 or stage 2

Here are a couple of results from a quick Google search. The first one has a response from our own John Kunkel.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=90286.0

http://forums.ihpartsamerica.com/showthread.php?t=2947

I've used both tf1 and tf2. I've found the tf2 i'm using in a cable '65 tranny to be harsher than necessary for a street driver. my favorite valve body used a tf1 with the latter part throttle kick down.

The OP isn't asking the difference between the TF-1 and TF-2 but rather the different performance levels (race/street) within the TF-2. and that's a personal preference.

As John said, the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 BOTH from same TF-2 kit

Transgo keeps changing the kits and the instructions. The most recent TF-2 I have is several years old and the instructions differ from earlier versions.

The early versions had you enlarge (drill) some of the separator plate orifices depending on the firmness desired, now they have you remove a check ball to make the 1-2 shift as firm as it's gonna get...I totally disagree with this approach.

I'd recommend using older instructions with the current kit if it's the same as mine.

The kit is at this moment a thousand miles from home. Was bought maybe 5 years ago.

Still, with old or new instructions, what's the diff between st1 and st2

( i read what you said about the ball and drill size on an old thread created by CB at DC.com )

I second the part throttle kick down for a driver. The original trans in your car probably came with it.

Changing the governor weight is also a good idea.

http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/5400-RPM-Hemi-Governor-Kit__22204-54.aspx

I had an older 1996 TF2 with the st2 in a street car. I liked it.

what check ball is this ? do you have a pic perhaps ? thanks john.

Off topic but will you plz explain what all you had to do to get the 440 crank stuffed into the 400?

Did you have to machine down the counterbalances?
Which rods and pistons did you get?
Did it need re-balancing?
thx

the trans I had with a tf1 and stock 4600rpm governor shifted at 4600rpm at WOT with the kickdown rod adjusted (all slop adjusted out and then backed off 2 turns). the tf2 trans with a stock 4600rpm governor will not upshift at WOT with the same adjustment. the tf2 kit has a lot of low speed 2-3 overlap, even with the restrictor. my thoughts are that the high shifts are due to the heavy throttle pressure spring.

there are many threads and info about the "451 stroker" becoming a 400 into a 440 ( dsplacement actually changes according the bore you choose, I went 0.020 making a 448... same as any 440 + 0.040" on a lighter assembly )... but I based on the simplier one:

https://www.houstonmopars.org/stroker.html

you can use 440 rods, Chebby rods, etc... but I went for the cheaper and basic one using what I already had in hands with my 400 and just buying the pistons aftermarket to the job

JUST IN CASE I HAVE FOR SALE NEW KB215 PISTONS SET STILL BOXED but in standard bore... if you are interested

The check ball in the red circle blocks fluid on the 1-2 upshift and reroutes it through a control orifice....the size of the orifice then controls the firmness of the shift. When the ball is removed, uncontrolled full fluid flow makes the firmest shift.

This is one of those no-buck mods to the TF (along with blocking the accumulator) that are often performed.

Are these the ones?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Keith-Black-KB215-Pistons-Mopar-400-stroker-451/182421689243?epid=1874816046&hash=item2a792e139b:g:hCMAAOSw5cNYemGw

yeap! can let them go lower being out of ebay