68 Dart, what wires have full battery power with the key in the start and the run positions? I need to run the power for my fitech efi. Thanks!

brown wire ign2 (crank). blue wire ign1 (run). www.mymopar.com will have the locations coming out of the bulkhead so you can T into them.

I need one wire that has both... Does that exist on my car?

NO!
You can tie the two wires together if you don't need a ballast resistor. If the starter relay wants to activate in the 'Run' position a diode will fix that. But I don't think that's an issue, just a possibility.
Find a wiring diagram if you don't have one.

I do need the resistor... How would I run the wire with the resistor in place?

It depends on what the connection is needed for. If all it does is tell the FI to turn on you could probably connect to the blue side of the ballast resistor (or coil, voltage regulator or alternator, they're all tied together) and the small voltage loss won't matter. People have been hooking up the OE electronic ignitions this way for years. They do run into weak spark when cranking fairly often though. If it's a power feed you need a relay setup might be in order.
That should stir up a hornets nest of replies for you to ponder.

It is the on/off circuit. I'm going to call fitech tomorrow and see if it makes any difference.

I also ran mine off the ballast resistor wire, but I used a relay setup so I wouldn't run into any issues pulling power from that wire. Then you have a good source that's not on the old wiring harneess for any other stuff you want to tap for power, and can just tee off the signal wire for additional relays.

Has being discused latelly. It will depends if the added system requieres a steady 12 volts signal or just a 5 to 12 volt signal is enough for remote on ths system and the 12 volts power source is feeded from batt/alt. ( like MSD Ign box ).

Also depends on what else is accomplishing the system

If just for triggering on and the system support the ballast decay, the blue wire at ballast or regulator should be enough, because wihile cranking the power comes back from ign2 circuit through the ballast. Which is usually around 6-9volts. But just while crankiing

If ballast is required, NEVER feeds anything from coil wire because will vary the voltage rate coming from ballast to feed the coil. The coil wire lead must remain clean of any other signal coming from ballast to be sure ballast will feed correctly the voltage rate

Discussed before, you need an ISO relay.

A thread started in 2015 on http://www.forabodiesonly.com about the FiTech systems is still going


http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/fitech-efi-system.321984/

Pay close attention to proper venting back to the tank

Just went through this, I actually don't think the diode is needed.
But that's what's in mine

https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbt...nk-and-run.html

We have discused already that ( thread posted by cnxt )... diode is a must because if not, will result the same than ALLMOT bypass the ballast. The ballast will keep feeding the 86 terminal and that's imposible to save... and if the relay reacts on the ballast feed to coil, will stay on.. adding also more load to the coil circuit, changing the ballast output too... and the 30 terminal won't be getting either 12 volts, but the ballast output

While the relay doesn't react to the ballast voltage, will be nice, but if switches, you will be on a different world.

( not being a smartass, but being logic on how the circuit works )

Thanks for all the help. I bit the bullet and bought an msd box and distributor. It was in the plan eventually anyway. Thanks again!

Now you can make a simple piggy back wire to jump the ballast wires together and tie in the power for the unit, leaving the factory wiring in place. .....

You're going to love the timing control, you'll need to disassemble and lock down the disributor.

Make sure your timing light is compatible with the MSD

Or just get a single pickup lean burn distributor

All new LA lean burn distributor Spectre CH11

...he already bought an MSD

What's the benefit of this?

It's already locked out, there are no moving parts inside the housing other than the shaft/rotor. No mechanical advance, no vacuum advance.