Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: JERICOGTX]
#2234553
01/15/17 12:10 PM
01/15/17 12:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
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JERICOGTX
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I Live Here
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While not built to any 25.X spec, I added a few bars between my rocker bars and sub frame connectors and then trimmed a new floor pan to fit. Took a lot of time to get it right, but can be done.
69 GTX
68 Road Runner
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: MattW]
#2234562
01/15/17 12:37 PM
01/15/17 12:37 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 403 Romulus, MI
GTS340
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mopar
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Romulus, MI
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Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that? You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much? And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage. So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan. Thx Matt My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: JERICOGTX]
#2234577
01/15/17 12:52 PM
01/15/17 12:52 PM
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Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 493 Parts unknown
590 Challenger
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Parts unknown
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While not built to any 25.X spec, I added a few bars between my rocker bars and sub frame connectors and then trimmed a new floor pan to fit. Took a lot of time to get it right, but can be done. Nice, That is pretty much how mine turned out, bars running in, out, along with the floor. I should have ordered new, that looks great. I pieced back in the OE floor I took out
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234594
01/15/17 01:05 PM
01/15/17 01:05 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 8,263 fredericksburg,va
cudaman1969
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fredericksburg,va
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We do it all the time with stock floors, you just have to make it work. X275 and other small tire classes require stock floors, even with a 25.1 or 25.2 cert. You just have to make it work. More work, but not hard to do Jason Digbys dart doesn't have stock floors. And he runs small tire classes. Am I missing something here? From my understanding one only needs part of the floor, in your pic the pass side is still there and rear floor behind driver seat is here.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: Forest]
#2234621
01/15/17 01:46 PM
01/15/17 01:46 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,207 Menomonee Falls
DemonDust
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After reading my 25.5 book, I'm a bit confused on the 2A bars. How did you run them utilizing the OEM floor? My frame connectors will not spec as they are 1.5 x 2.5 x .125. So those have to come out.
Also being 45 years old the floor has pin holes here and there which would make it near impossible to weld the floor to the tubes where need be. Any way to get around replacing the whole floor? Otherwise I'm looking at chopping the whole floor out and building all the bars in the floor, which I really don't want to do.
Any help and lots of pics wood be appreciated. I would remove your current frame connectors and install 2 x 3 that way the cut in your floor would get larger rather than smaller if you use 1 5/8 tube. Then you just need the rocker bar, the #9 seat tube and the 3) #6 bars in the floor. I have pics of one I did that way if you need help envisioning what I'm saying... Yes please post some pics. All information and ideas will help me decide which way I want to go.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234625
01/15/17 01:53 PM
01/15/17 01:53 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 20,174 PA.
pittsburghracer
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Thanks Dennis. I'm trying to weigh the options. My OEM floor is original and pretty rough in some spots. So I'm trying to decide which way to go. Stock floor has to come out regardless, and with that out it'd be a snap to put the floor bars in. I guess I'm gonna have to start searching class rules all over at different classes I may attend. And be prepared for rule changes. The car pictured in the pictures above appear to have the cowl removed. Some classes would probably discourage this as it leads to moving the firewall rear-ward which leads to moving the engine location which is probably not legal for some classes.
1970 Duster Edelbrock headed 408 5.984@112.52 422 Indy headed small block 5.982@112.56 mph 9.42@138.27
Livin and lovin life one day at a time
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: pittsburghracer]
#2234647
01/15/17 02:10 PM
01/15/17 02:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,566 Motor City
6PKRTSE
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My car has all of the stock firewall and floors. All the bars run under and thru the floor with no issues.
1963 Belvedere 440 Max Wedge Tribute 1970 Charger R/T S.E. 440 Six Pack 1970 Challenger R/T, 528 Hemi 1970 Charger 500 S.E. 440 4 BBL 1970 Plymouth Road Runner 383 1974 Chrysler New Yorker 440 1996 2500 RAM 488 V-10 4X4 2004 3500 Dually Cummins 4x4 2012 Challenger R/T Classic.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: GTS340]
#2234656
01/15/17 02:17 PM
01/15/17 02:17 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,890 North Alabama
Monte_Smith
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Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that? You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much? And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage. So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan. Thx Matt My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual Because it makes no sense. 25.5 specifies that 2x2 or 2x3 IS acceptable, but you don't HAVE to use it. So either use whats there.......OR if you plan to cut it out and replace it, just use 1 5/8 moly. Everything else is going to be moly apparently in this build, so why would you cut some square out, only to replace with bigger and heavier box tubing, when you COULD use round? Just doesn't make any sense. Most don't seem to understand the 25.5 spec. It's an "add on" spec more or less. Which means that IF you have a 2x2 or 2x3 rail 8.50 car with a mild steel cage, that you CAN upgrade to a 25.5 7.50 cert. BUT, if you are starting over and plan to use moly anyway, you can go to another cert. I think it's 25.3 for a 7.50 moly cert depending on weight. So the point is....use whats THERE for the 25.5 or if starting over just build it to 25.3 with all moly round tube, like the Challenger hvyweight showed
Last edited by Monte_Smith; 01/15/17 02:27 PM.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234669
01/15/17 02:30 PM
01/15/17 02:30 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,050 Bowling Green, KY
cudaboy
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Thanks Dennis. I'm trying to weigh the options. My OEM floor is original and pretty rough in some spots. So I'm trying to decide which way to go. Stock floor has to come out regardless, and with that out it'd be a snap to put the floor bars in. I guess I'm gonna have to start searching class rules all over at different classes I may attend. . It's tough, i agree. I'm going to stick with grudge racing slow cars and test and tune...lol. Dennis
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: Monte_Smith]
#2234679
01/15/17 02:41 PM
01/15/17 02:41 PM
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Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 403 Romulus, MI
GTS340
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Romulus, MI
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Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that? You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much? And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage. So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan. Thx Matt My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual Because it makes no sense. 25.5 specifies that 2x2 or 2x3 IS acceptable, but you don't HAVE to use it. So either use whats there.......OR if you plan to cut it out and replace it, just use 1 5/8 moly. Everything else is going to be moly apparently in this build, so why would you cut some square out, only to replace with bigger and heavier box tubing, when you COULD use round? Just doesn't make any sense. Most don't seem to understand the 25.5 spec. It's an "add on" spec more or less. Which means that IF you have a 2x2 or 2x3 rail 8.50 car with a mild steel cage, that you CAN upgrade to a 25.5 7.50 cert. BUT, if you are starting over and plan to use moly anyway, you can go to another cert. I think it's 25.3 for a 7.50 moly cert depending on weight. So the point is....use whats THERE for the 25.5 or if starting over just build it to 25.3 with all moly round tube, like the Challenger hvyweight showed I agree with going 25.3 if you are not retro fitting to an 8.50 structure, however a 25.3 is good to 6.50
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234682
01/15/17 02:46 PM
01/15/17 02:46 PM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,207 Menomonee Falls
DemonDust
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Monte, do you just add in some sheet metal around the tubes and then weld and blend it into the existing sheetmetal? From what I understand anywhere the tubes come thru it has to be welded to the floor correct?
Last edited by R5P7Duster; 01/15/17 02:48 PM.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234706
01/15/17 03:24 PM
01/15/17 03:24 PM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 625 Oakville, Wa
HOTMOPR
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Back to digbys dart...I believe in some classes you can replace the factory floor if its replaced with the same thickness of sheet metal. That's how the rule is stated for your safety gear/fire suit as well.
Last edited by HOTMOPR; 01/15/17 03:24 PM.
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody???
[Re: DemonDust]
#2234707
01/15/17 03:25 PM
01/15/17 03:25 PM
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Joined: Nov 2004
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Monte_Smith
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Monte, do you just add in some sheet metal around the tubes and then weld and blend it into the existing sheetmetal? From what I understand anywhere the tubes come thru it has to be welded to the floor correct? There are various ways to do it. Put it all under the floor, put it all on top of floor or a combination. If your floor pans are rough and you want to replace as well as keep stock floor, I would do it this way. Cut stock floor out, build cage, buy new factory pans, chop them up and fit around tubing. Yes, it's work, but looks great when finished. You will likely only have bars through floor in rear footwell area anyway. Personally I use a silicon bronze filler when welding sheetmetal to the tubing. Much easier to use as you can use really low heat, flows well and looks great. You can weld paper thin sheetmetal fairly easily with that filler and not burn stuff up. In reference to Digby's car, most small tire classes require stock floors. You ARE allowed to replace SOME of the floor, but it MUST be with steel and you also must have MOSTLY a stock floor. They will bounce a full sheetmetal floor every time
Last edited by Monte_Smith; 01/15/17 03:28 PM.
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