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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: JERICOGTX] #2234553
01/15/17 12:10 PM
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While not built to any 25.X spec, I added a few bars between my rocker bars and sub frame connectors and then trimmed a new floor pan to fit. Took a lot of time to get it right, but can be done.

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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: MattW] #2234562
01/15/17 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted By MattW
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that?


You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much?
And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage.
So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan.
Thx Matt


My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234572
01/15/17 12:48 PM
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Round tube is structurally more solid than square or rectangle tube. Lighter and the connections to other round tubing is more solid too, heck with how it looks

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: JERICOGTX] #2234577
01/15/17 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted By JERICOGTX
While not built to any 25.X spec, I added a few bars between my rocker bars and sub frame connectors and then trimmed a new floor pan to fit. Took a lot of time to get it right, but can be done.

Nice, That is pretty much how mine turned out, bars running in, out, along with the floor. I should have ordered new, that looks great. I pieced back in the OE floor I took out

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: Monte_Smith] #2234580
01/15/17 12:54 PM
01/15/17 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
We do it all the time with stock floors, you just have to make it work. X275 and other small tire classes require stock floors, even with a 25.1 or 25.2 cert. You just have to make it work. More work, but not hard to do


Jason Digbys dart doesn't have stock floors. And he runs small tire classes. Am I missing something here?




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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234594
01/15/17 01:05 PM
01/15/17 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted By R5P7Duster
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
We do it all the time with stock floors, you just have to make it work. X275 and other small tire classes require stock floors, even with a 25.1 or 25.2 cert. You just have to make it work. More work, but not hard to do


Jason Digbys dart doesn't have stock floors. And he runs small tire classes. Am I missing something here?



From my understanding one only needs part of the floor, in your pic the pass side is still there and rear floor behind driver seat is here.

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234603
01/15/17 01:19 PM
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You need to read the rules for the class/classes you want to run in. The leaf spring class at Ducks races that Jason's car runs in doesn't require stock floors.

http://www.racedxp.com/classes-rules/leaf-spring-shootout/

Dennis

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: Forest] #2234608
01/15/17 01:30 PM
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Winterpeg, Canada
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A few more

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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234614
01/15/17 01:35 PM
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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: cudaboy] #2234618
01/15/17 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted By cudaboy
You need to read the rules for the class/classes you want to run in. The leaf spring class at Ducks races that Jason's car runs in doesn't require stock floors.

http://www.racedxp.com/classes-rules/leaf-spring-shootout/

Dennis


Thanks Dennis. I'm trying to weigh the options. My OEM floor is original and pretty rough in some spots. So I'm trying to decide which way to go. Stock floor has to come out regardless, and with that out it'd be a snap to put the floor bars in. I guess I'm gonna have to start searching class rules all over at different classes I may attend.


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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: Forest] #2234621
01/15/17 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted By Forest
Originally Posted By R5P7Duster
After reading my 25.5 book, I'm a bit confused on the 2A bars. How did you run them utilizing the OEM floor? My frame connectors will not spec as they are 1.5 x 2.5 x .125. So those have to come out.

Also being 45 years old the floor has pin holes here and there which would make it near impossible to weld the floor to the tubes where need be. Any way to get around replacing the whole floor? Otherwise I'm looking at chopping the whole floor out and building all the bars in the floor, which I really don't want to do.

Any help and lots of pics wood be appreciated.


I would remove your current frame connectors and install 2 x 3 that way the cut in your floor would get larger rather than smaller if you use 1 5/8 tube. Then you just need the rocker bar, the #9 seat tube and the 3) #6 bars in the floor. I have pics of one I did that way if you need help envisioning what I'm saying...


Yes please post some pics. All information and ideas will help me decide which way I want to go.


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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234625
01/15/17 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted By R5P7Duster
Originally Posted By cudaboy
You need to read the rules for the class/classes you want to run in. The leaf spring class at Ducks races that Jason's car runs in doesn't require stock floors.

http://www.racedxp.com/classes-rules/leaf-spring-shootout/

Dennis


Thanks Dennis. I'm trying to weigh the options. My OEM floor is original and pretty rough in some spots. So I'm trying to decide which way to go. Stock floor has to come out regardless, and with that out it'd be a snap to put the floor bars in. I guess I'm gonna have to start searching class rules all over at different classes I may attend.




And be prepared for rule changes. The car pictured in the pictures above appear to have the cowl removed. Some classes would probably discourage this as it leads to moving the firewall rear-ward which leads to moving the engine location which is probably not legal for some classes.


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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: pittsburghracer] #2234647
01/15/17 02:10 PM
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My car has all of the stock firewall and floors. All the bars run under and thru the floor with no issues.


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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: GTS340] #2234656
01/15/17 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted By GTS340
Originally Posted By MattW
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that?


You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much?
And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage.
So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan.
Thx Matt


My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual
Because it makes no sense. 25.5 specifies that 2x2 or 2x3 IS acceptable, but you don't HAVE to use it. So either use whats there.......OR if you plan to cut it out and replace it, just use 1 5/8 moly. Everything else is going to be moly apparently in this build, so why would you cut some square out, only to replace with bigger and heavier box tubing, when you COULD use round? Just doesn't make any sense.

Most don't seem to understand the 25.5 spec. It's an "add on" spec more or less. Which means that IF you have a 2x2 or 2x3 rail 8.50 car with a mild steel cage, that you CAN upgrade to a 25.5 7.50 cert. BUT, if you are starting over and plan to use moly anyway, you can go to another cert. I think it's 25.3 for a 7.50 moly cert depending on weight. So the point is....use whats THERE for the 25.5 or if starting over just build it to 25.3 with all moly round tube, like the Challenger hvyweight showed

Last edited by Monte_Smith; 01/15/17 02:27 PM.
Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234669
01/15/17 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted By R5P7Duster
Originally Posted By cudaboy
You need to read the rules for the class/classes you want to run in. The leaf spring class at Ducks races that Jason's car runs in doesn't require stock floors.

http://www.racedxp.com/classes-rules/leaf-spring-shootout/

Dennis


Thanks Dennis. I'm trying to weigh the options. My OEM floor is original and pretty rough in some spots. So I'm trying to decide which way to go. Stock floor has to come out regardless, and with that out it'd be a snap to put the floor bars in. I guess I'm gonna have to start searching class rules all over at different classes I may attend.
. It's tough, i agree. I'm going to stick with grudge racing slow cars and test and tune...lol.

Dennis

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: Monte_Smith] #2234679
01/15/17 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
Originally Posted By GTS340
Originally Posted By MattW
Originally Posted By Monte_Smith
Sorry, but NO WAY would I put 2x3 connectors in a car that was going to be 25.5. Why would you do that?


You need to be more specific. Is it no good cuz YOU don't like it or cuz it's not acceptable, good practice or weights too much?
And don't take this the wrong way I'm in the same boat and was going to post the same question about ms vs cm and best way to build a cage.
So if you have some pictures of cages built and can post them it would help me in my project. A bodies or mustang I don't care just want a visual to help me plan.
Thx Matt


My guess is that Monte just doesnt care for the appearance of box tube, but 2x2 and 2x3 are both listed as acceptable for subframe connectors in the 25.5 manual
Because it makes no sense. 25.5 specifies that 2x2 or 2x3 IS acceptable, but you don't HAVE to use it. So either use whats there.......OR if you plan to cut it out and replace it, just use 1 5/8 moly. Everything else is going to be moly apparently in this build, so why would you cut some square out, only to replace with bigger and heavier box tubing, when you COULD use round? Just doesn't make any sense.

Most don't seem to understand the 25.5 spec. It's an "add on" spec more or less. Which means that IF you have a 2x2 or 2x3 rail 8.50 car with a mild steel cage, that you CAN upgrade to a 25.5 7.50 cert. BUT, if you are starting over and plan to use moly anyway, you can go to another cert. I think it's 25.3 for a 7.50 moly cert depending on weight. So the point is....use whats THERE for the 25.5 or if starting over just build it to 25.3 with all moly round tube, like the Challenger hvyweight showed


I agree with going 25.3 if you are not retro fitting to an 8.50 structure, however a 25.3 is good to 6.50

Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234682
01/15/17 02:46 PM
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Monte, do you just add in some sheet metal around the tubes and then weld and blend it into the existing sheetmetal? From what I understand anywhere the tubes come thru it has to be welded to the floor correct?

Last edited by R5P7Duster; 01/15/17 02:48 PM.

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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234685
01/15/17 02:54 PM
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Cutting off the roof makes it a easier

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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234706
01/15/17 03:24 PM
01/15/17 03:24 PM
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Back to digbys dart...I believe in some classes you can replace the factory floor if its replaced with the same thickness of sheet metal. That's how the rule is stated for your safety gear/fire suit as well.

Last edited by HOTMOPR; 01/15/17 03:24 PM.

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Re: 25.5 and stock floor in a unibody??? [Re: DemonDust] #2234707
01/15/17 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted By R5P7Duster
Monte, do you just add in some sheet metal around the tubes and then weld and blend it into the existing sheetmetal? From what I understand anywhere the tubes come thru it has to be welded to the floor correct?
There are various ways to do it. Put it all under the floor, put it all on top of floor or a combination. If your floor pans are rough and you want to replace as well as keep stock floor, I would do it this way. Cut stock floor out, build cage, buy new factory pans, chop them up and fit around tubing. Yes, it's work, but looks great when finished. You will likely only have bars through floor in rear footwell area anyway. Personally I use a silicon bronze filler when welding sheetmetal to the tubing. Much easier to use as you can use really low heat, flows well and looks great. You can weld paper thin sheetmetal fairly easily with that filler and not burn stuff up.

In reference to Digby's car, most small tire classes require stock floors. You ARE allowed to replace SOME of the floor, but it MUST be with steel and you also must have MOSTLY a stock floor. They will bounce a full sheetmetal floor every time

Last edited by Monte_Smith; 01/15/17 03:28 PM.
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