Do you like it? Have you made passes with it at a dragstrip?
How tall is your rear tire and what gear ratio are you running?

I'm considering this trans for my next build soon and that 64% overdrive in 5th gear sounds amazing. I don't know much about manual transmissions, I don't know if a hydraulic type clutch is necessary? I had a mustang with a 6-speed a few years ago and the clutch was miserable, way to hard to push in when driving in traffic but it may have been adjusted wrong.

Both of my Mopars are autos but I have a TKO600/.64 in my '72 vette.
Besides the built motor, the OD trans is easily the best mod I have done to the car.
I'm running 3:36 rear gears which works well with the 2.87 first gear. Most of the guys are running 3:73 rear gears which works even better.
Debated hard on the .82 vs .64 but ended up going with the .64 OD.
The car will pull easily in 5th above 40 mph in town. I can fly down the interstate with the new vettes and stay with them with the motor barely straining.
Driving modern cars with OD trans kinda spoils you and an OD trans brings your older car into the modern age.

With a 64% overdrive I'm thinking a 4.10 gear.
With a 28" tall tire I could drag race it, then cruise home at 65mph at 2100 RPM's.

It says they can handle 600 ft/lb's of torque so they can handle a pretty healthy streetable motor.

I have a TKO600 with the .64 OD and 3.55 gears, love it. Common consensus is they're not real great for speed-shifting.

With the correct bellhousing you can retain the mechanical linkage.

Did you replace the Muncie 4 speed that was in it or was it an Auto to start with??

Did you have to do any cutting??

Ty, just curious.......

Car is a 4-speed which made the swap harder actually. GM welded in the tailshaft crossmember on manual cars but made the crossmember removeable on the autos. It's hard with the welded crossmember but it can be done without cutting the crossmember in a C3. The OD trans is easily one of the best mods to make. Would have never attempted all these Hot Rod Power Tours I've done without the TKO.

Can you shift it pretty quick by letting off the gas for a split second like a normal fast shift? I'm guessing by speed-shifting you're referring to stabbing the clutch w/o ever letting off the gas.
I don't plan on racing much, mostly street and maybe autocross, but I don't want to buy a trans that has to be granny shifted to make sure it goes into gear.

I have a 5 speed in my 'Cuda and a 6 speed in my SRT 10 truck. Mechanical linkage in the 'Cuda. Works great. Hydraulic clutch in the truck, not so much.

I've had a TKO 5 speed in my '72 'Cuda since I put it together a little over a dozen years ago and have close to 60,000 miles on it so I am pretty familiar with both it's faults and it's virtues. Mine has .68 OD and a 3.27 1st. gear with 26 in. dia. tires and a 3.55 sure grip 8 3/4 rear. First the faults. First gear has more gear reduction than you need or want, it's a pretty good jump to 2nd. This was one of Keisler's earlier "E" body attempts and the first transmission they sent was unusable due to very poor fit. Unlike some other peoples experience Keisler made if right and sent me an updated version without argument and at their expense. The newer version still required a bit more tunnel surgery than I would have preferred in order to get proper driveline angles, but it wasn't something that someone with experience couldn't handle either. The earlier shifters weren't very good, but the later ones are decent. Keep in mind that "E" bodies require an external bolt on shifter so this dosen't help. As a side note '05-'14 Mustangs also use a semi-divorced external shifter and you won't find anyone who owns one saying that the stock factory shifter is anything better than OK. I own a '14 Mustang 5.0 6 speed manual GT myself so I know this from experience. I would be reluctant to try a full on, no lift power shift with either of them. That said with a little practice you can shift either of them pretty quickly. Now the good.I can cruise on the interstate with the 'Cuda at 70-75 mph at 2,200-2,300 rpm which is about 1,000 rpm less than I would be turning with the factory 4 speed and only a touch more than my Mustang. The TKO is slightly noisier at idle than a production transmission, but it's not objectionable. As for clutch action, I am not sure what you call stiff. I am an old guy and I grew up with some pretty stiff Borg & Beck style clutches in my old '63 Sport Fury and my '66 street hemi and I,ve never been mistaken for a body builder. My '14 Mustang has a hydraulic throw out bearing and I think it's really light, but you can go on Mustang forums hear people complain about a stiff clutch. I run a 10.75 Sachs diaphragm clutch on the 10.5 bolt pattern in my 'Cuda and I think it's pretty light and easy. What I am going to say next is somewhat controversial. Contrary to what most people think you do NOT have to remove the large overcenter spring from the clutch pedal in order to use a diaphragm clutch so long as you install a positive and preferably adjustable clutch stop which you can do for a couple of bucks worth of hardware store parts. In fact if you do remove the overcenter spring you should install some sort of return spring in order to keep the throw out bearing from riding constantly on the clutch fingers. As for autocross, you can see from my pic that I have a little experience here. Don't be concerned about shifting, most courses will only require a single shift from 1st. to 2nd. Only once did I ever require 3rd.

Ok sounds like mechanical linkage is the way to go.
I was watching a bunch of youtube videos and it seems that 'faceplating' is something I want to avoid for a car that will be mostly street and some autocrossing. Faceplating is suppose to be awesome for the dragstrip though.

Thanks 5spdcuda, that is great info!
I've had automatics in all my Mopars over the years so I'm interested in trying something different but I don't want to get in over my head.
Gearvendors is a great option for auto but they're pretty expensive also and I'm not at all thrilled about the 78% overdrive ratio.

I had a TKO600. It was alright. I couldn't get it to shift at high RPM. If I was light cruising, it shifted quick and easy like butter. At high RPM, it wouldn't shift until they fell to below 3,000 RPM or so.

I'm doing my 5th TKO right now. All for customers cars. I've really never cared for them. Shift like crap compared to the 833.
The T-56 is much nicer but much harder to fit in our old Mopers.

T56 Magnum here, heard too many high rpm concerns with the TKO platform. It's also pretty darn bullet-proof.

I have a T56 manual and I love it. Shifts good and keeps the RPM downs.

Wow, I'd be pulling that trans and sending it right back to Tremec. I can't imagine spending all that money for a good stick shift transmission and having to baby it.

I know the 833 has it's horsepower limitation, or at least I would imagine it does, and some of you have mentioned the T56 but if I search the web or read the comments on youtube videos everyone says the T56 can't handle high RPM or very much horsepower.

I want something I can drive to the track, run 10.90's, and drive home. I know a 727 with a gearvendors can do it easily but I was hoping to try a stick shift.

Who sells the T56 Magnum, does American Powertrain have it? Thanks.

The internals for the T56 magnum are the same as the: SRT Viper, Corvette ZO6, Shelby Cobra, Challenger Hellcat....It's no slouch. YouTube comments are not the highest of caliber.

Ok cool. I don't know anything about the T56 Magnum, who sells the whole trans ready to bolt in?

I've got an early Keisler in my 68 Charger - the PITA of getting it all in there right and the really poor shifting makes me really wish we had just done a Passion 4OD. There was a thread a couple weeks ago that talked about how later units had some updated parts, but the Getrag in my 1st gen cummins was a much better shifting unit...