How many of you use a Tremec 5 speed?

Do you like it? Have you made passes with it at a dragstrip?
How tall is your rear tire and what gear ratio are you running?

I'm considering this trans for my next build soon and that 64% overdrive in 5th gear sounds amazing. I don't know much about manual transmissions, I don't know if a hydraulic type clutch is necessary? I had a mustang with a 6-speed a few years ago and the clutch was miserable, way to hard to push in when driving in traffic but it may have been adjusted wrong.

Both of my Mopars are autos but I have a TKO600/.64 in my '72 vette.
Besides the built motor, the OD trans is easily the best mod I have done to the car.
I'm running 3:36 rear gears which works well with the 2.87 first gear. Most of the guys are running 3:73 rear gears which works even better.
Debated hard on the .82 vs .64 but ended up going with the .64 OD.
The car will pull easily in 5th above 40 mph in town. I can fly down the interstate with the new vettes and stay with them with the motor barely straining.
Driving modern cars with OD trans kinda spoils you and an OD trans brings your older car into the modern age.

With a 64% overdrive I'm thinking a 4.10 gear.
With a 28" tall tire I could drag race it, then cruise home at 65mph at 2100 RPM's.

It says they can handle 600 ft/lb's of torque so they can handle a pretty healthy streetable motor.

I have a TKO600 with the .64 OD and 3.55 gears, love it. Common consensus is they're not real great for speed-shifting.

With the correct bellhousing you can retain the mechanical linkage.

Did you replace the Muncie 4 speed that was in it or was it an Auto to start with??

Did you have to do any cutting??

Ty, just curious.......

Car is a 4-speed which made the swap harder actually. GM welded in the tailshaft crossmember on manual cars but made the crossmember removeable on the autos. It's hard with the welded crossmember but it can be done without cutting the crossmember in a C3. The OD trans is easily one of the best mods to make. Would have never attempted all these Hot Rod Power Tours I've done without the TKO.

Can you shift it pretty quick by letting off the gas for a split second like a normal fast shift? I'm guessing by speed-shifting you're referring to stabbing the clutch w/o ever letting off the gas.
I don't plan on racing much, mostly street and maybe autocross, but I don't want to buy a trans that has to be granny shifted to make sure it goes into gear.

I have a 5 speed in my 'Cuda and a 6 speed in my SRT 10 truck. Mechanical linkage in the 'Cuda. Works great. Hydraulic clutch in the truck, not so much.

I've had a TKO 5 speed in my '72 'Cuda since I put it together a little over a dozen years ago and have close to 60,000 miles on it so I am pretty familiar with both it's faults and it's virtues. Mine has .68 OD and a 3.27 1st. gear with 26 in. dia. tires and a 3.55 sure grip 8 3/4 rear. First the faults. First gear has more gear reduction than you need or want, it's a pretty good jump to 2nd. This was one of Keisler's earlier "E" body attempts and the first transmission they sent was unusable due to very poor fit. Unlike some other peoples experience Keisler made if right and sent me an updated version without argument and at their expense. The newer version still required a bit more tunnel surgery than I would have preferred in order to get proper driveline angles, but it wasn't something that someone with experience couldn't handle either. The earlier shifters weren't very good, but the later ones are decent. Keep in mind that "E" bodies require an external bolt on shifter so this dosen't help. As a side note '05-'14 Mustangs also use a semi-divorced external shifter and you won't find anyone who owns one saying that the stock factory shifter is anything better than OK. I own a '14 Mustang 5.0 6 speed manual GT myself so I know this from experience. I would be reluctant to try a full on, no lift power shift with either of them. That said with a little practice you can shift either of them pretty quickly. Now the good.I can cruise on the interstate with the 'Cuda at 70-75 mph at 2,200-2,300 rpm which is about 1,000 rpm less than I would be turning with the factory 4 speed and only a touch more than my Mustang. The TKO is slightly noisier at idle than a production transmission, but it's not objectionable. As for clutch action, I am not sure what you call stiff. I am an old guy and I grew up with some pretty stiff Borg & Beck style clutches in my old '63 Sport Fury and my '66 street hemi and I,ve never been mistaken for a body builder. My '14 Mustang has a hydraulic throw out bearing and I think it's really light, but you can go on Mustang forums hear people complain about a stiff clutch. I run a 10.75 Sachs diaphragm clutch on the 10.5 bolt pattern in my 'Cuda and I think it's pretty light and easy. What I am going to say next is somewhat controversial. Contrary to what most people think you do NOT have to remove the large overcenter spring from the clutch pedal in order to use a diaphragm clutch so long as you install a positive and preferably adjustable clutch stop which you can do for a couple of bucks worth of hardware store parts. In fact if you do remove the overcenter spring you should install some sort of return spring in order to keep the throw out bearing from riding constantly on the clutch fingers. As for autocross, you can see from my pic that I have a little experience here. Don't be concerned about shifting, most courses will only require a single shift from 1st. to 2nd. Only once did I ever require 3rd.

Ok sounds like mechanical linkage is the way to go.
I was watching a bunch of youtube videos and it seems that 'faceplating' is something I want to avoid for a car that will be mostly street and some autocrossing. Faceplating is suppose to be awesome for the dragstrip though.

Thanks 5spdcuda, that is great info!
I've had automatics in all my Mopars over the years so I'm interested in trying something different but I don't want to get in over my head.
Gearvendors is a great option for auto but they're pretty expensive also and I'm not at all thrilled about the 78% overdrive ratio.

I had a TKO600. It was alright. I couldn't get it to shift at high RPM. If I was light cruising, it shifted quick and easy like butter. At high RPM, it wouldn't shift until they fell to below 3,000 RPM or so.

I'm doing my 5th TKO right now. All for customers cars. I've really never cared for them. Shift like crap compared to the 833.
The T-56 is much nicer but much harder to fit in our old Mopers.

T56 Magnum here, heard too many high rpm concerns with the TKO platform. It's also pretty darn bullet-proof.

I have a T56 manual and I love it. Shifts good and keeps the RPM downs.

Wow, I'd be pulling that trans and sending it right back to Tremec. I can't imagine spending all that money for a good stick shift transmission and having to baby it.

I know the 833 has it's horsepower limitation, or at least I would imagine it does, and some of you have mentioned the T56 but if I search the web or read the comments on youtube videos everyone says the T56 can't handle high RPM or very much horsepower.

I want something I can drive to the track, run 10.90's, and drive home. I know a 727 with a gearvendors can do it easily but I was hoping to try a stick shift.

Who sells the T56 Magnum, does American Powertrain have it? Thanks.

The internals for the T56 magnum are the same as the: SRT Viper, Corvette ZO6, Shelby Cobra, Challenger Hellcat....It's no slouch. YouTube comments are not the highest of caliber.

Ok cool. I don't know anything about the T56 Magnum, who sells the whole trans ready to bolt in?

I've got an early Keisler in my 68 Charger - the PITA of getting it all in there right and the really poor shifting makes me really wish we had just done a Passion 4OD. There was a thread a couple weeks ago that talked about how later units had some updated parts, but the Getrag in my 1st gen cummins was a much better shifting unit...

Just a couple of quick comments. Regarding the Gear Vendors option, the .78 OD isn't much compared to most Tremecs, but most of them go in automatic trans cars and they were concerned about people with high stall converters and overheating if they used much more OD. I would also be concerned about the fact that a 727 with a Gear Vendors is going to result in a pretty long transmission which in turn results in a pretty short drivshaft which will create some pretty interesting driveline angles as the rear axle moves up and down if it's installed in a short wheelbase car eg. "A" or "E" bodies. As for the TKO being hard to shift at high rpm, I suppose that depends on your definition of high rpm. I've always shifted the 'Cuda at 6,200 rpm with the limiter being set at 6,600 rpm [ maybe that's why I finally hurt the # 6 rod bearing on my 300,000 plus miles production 360 rods ]. In any case I never had any issues with clutch hang up or refusing to go in gear. I have no experience with any of the 6 speed Tremecs, but lots of Mustang people with modified high output & high rpm 5.0's use them in place of the factory MT82. I am pretty sure Ford also used them in the GT500 cars and I know they use some version of it in the current Shelby GT 350 with it's 8,250 rpm 526 HP flat crank engine so I suppose they must not shift too badly. Unfortunately it is a pretty bulky piece and as has been noted isn't the easiest to get to fit in the rather confined space on our Mopars. IF you have the necessary fabrication skills [ or the money to pay someone who does ] the 6 speed is probably the best way to go. Also since they are production transmissions, parts should be readily available for some time to come.

The Magnum does not "bolt in" to any of these cars. Pretty significant floor and torsion bar crossmember modifications are required, which is the biggest entry barrier for most.

I bought my stuff from Silver Sport Transmissions.

TKO-600 w/.64 here

69 Dart stroked small block
iron heads,RPM intake,253@050 solid cam
4.30 gears,28inch tire

If is was going to do it again.I think
I would go with the .82

A couple years back,I had a smaller cam
with a 3.91 gear.I think the 4.30's are
a better combo.

In the springtime come up to Parma
you can drive it.

Mike

Oh I know that, I used the wrong wording, I'm simply trying to find out where to buy this trans complete lol. Thanks for the answer, appreciated.

I sold my TKO600 and will replace with either a 4sp OD or T56 magnum.
The Silver Sport kit is expensive plus you have to buy a Quicktime bell and hyd clutch setup. Not sure it is worth it. One nice thing about the Silver Sport kit is you don't have to fab a new torsion bar cross-member but still lots of cutting.

Now that's the coolest thing I've read all winter! I might have to come check it out.

5spcuda, if I go with a gearvendors I will go with the shorty version from SMR, and if I go with a Turbo400 there's an option that is either 4 or 8 inches shorter than a 727 shorty. So with those options I'm not worried about the driveshaft length.

I was leaning towards the Tremec 5speed because I used to own a supercharged mustang with a cobra 6speed and I honestly had a hard time getting used to it, almost seemed like there was too many gears close together so I wasn't real confident driving it hard for fear of jamming it into the wrong gear. More seat time would have helped but I quickly sold that car due to the fact that I really missed my old carbureted big block mopars with brute torque.
If remember what I read correctly, the Tremec 5speed can handle 600 ft/lb and the Tremec 6speed can handle 700 ft/lb.

I'm glad to hear that your Tremec 5speed works flawlessly, makes me wonder why so many people have problems driving theirs hard. I know that if I spend all that money on a new one it darn sure better work right without having to be babied.

What didn't you like about the TKO600?

A QuickTime bell is an easy sell for me, I like my legs.

I don't use a Tremec mostly because I do not like the feel of how it shifts.

Never tried a no lift speed shift with one.

But I do like the feel of a fresh A833 with a fresh shifter and it will handle a no lift speed shift just fine.

How much HP and torque can an A833 handle?

Ask Ronnie Sox

I've done quite a few Tremec installs in Mopars A,B and E bodies, a few Fords and a handful of Chevies the last 15+ years, and yes the aftermarket kits and components have improved dramatically over that time as well, I generally prefer the TKO 600 with a .64 OD if your looking to run 3:90+ rear gears and a 26-28" tire

early issues with most of the aftermarket kits were driveline angle (and can still be depending on the application) and 1 st Generation shift towers regardless of the kit supplier, plus add to the equation some owners hesitant/refusing to mod the floor and or trim away excess ribs on the TKO case to achieve a proper driveline angle...plus add in the fact most "home" and some shop installers lacked the proper tools/skill sets to dial in a bellhousing, or check driveline angles, and or confirm machined/assembly specs, and parts/components supplied to be correct for their application...I worked on a few owner/shop installed applications to sort them out for customers, and generally installation error, or a lack of understanding how the components were to be installed were the biggest errors that led to difficult shifting, or clutch engage/disengagement issues, or total transmission failure in some cases, if you've been on Moparts long enough, or search TKO threads you'll see that I usually respond with an answer or solution to most of the issues that arise...I'm the last one that wants junk in my rides, I wouldn't use or endorse a TKO install if I thought it was junk, after decades of owning 833 equipped cars there's no way I'd ever go back to driving them after having a TKO 5spd properly set up behind a smblk, Bblk or HEMI car

If you do decide on a TKO, I'd start with a TKO600, a .64 OD based on the gear choice you intend to use (4:10) and a hydraulic throw out bearing if the added expense is doable, mechanical is fine as well if you properly set it up, going mechanical tends to involve correcting misalignment issues and modifying linkage components to fit and operate as needed, the hyd TOB's on the other hand eliminate a lot of hassles and offer much better pedal effort and control if set up properly

If you go the TKO route decide early on if the TKO needs to be modded for your needs, a faceplated TKO is much like driving a factory 833/4 spd (like driving a truck IMHO), if high (6K+) RPM shifts are your intended usage, then have carbon fiber syncros installed as the stock Tremec bronze syncros will limit you to 5000-5500 rpm shift usage...

Clutch choice is again open to your intended usage, personally I prefer the Sachs Borg/Beck 3 finger design for street/strip/road course use, Kevlar single disc, with cover pressure in the 2800 or 3400 lbs rating (these are getting near impossible to find though and often brutal on the hyd TOB) I've done a few installs with dual discs (not a fan) and single disc diaphram set ups, but if you decide to drag the car with a diaphram set up, the Spec Stage 3 is the way to go, but can be rather spendy

As far as sources for these kits, you have American Power Train (APT), and currently SST/Silver Sport Transmissions (former Keisler operation), either one can supply you a quality unit/service, but personally I'd go with SST as the product line is further developed and more options/choices are available to individualize your application, If you decide to go SST for a TKO or even a T56, contact Jeff Kauffman at SST, he'll steer you to what best suits your intended application and usage...

I will add that 5spd installs have become sort of "old school" over the last few years (but still much better than driving a 1:1 final drive ratio), and the T56 is a much better choice if decided upon esp with the .50 OD choice, but you are looking at mandatory floor and torsion bar crossmember modifications with the T56, and again the T56 kits have improved dramatically as well

Mike

I didn't like the way it shifted. TKOs are not the smoothest shifting tranny to begin with. Then you add the additional offset linkage for an e-body it makes it that much worse.
Also, the only way to get the headers(2"TTIs) level meant cutting the cross-member which I am ok with but not for a TKO. For a T56 magnum or a Gforce GF5R? Yes.

I did like the way the gearing worked out for what I use my car for. I had the .82OD with 3.33 rear gears.
I had 5 usable gears since 1st was not a granny gear.
Also, driveshaft speed is lower.
TKO never gave me any problems: no vibrations,leaks, etc

It is not that I am against having my legs but the QuickTime bell requires hyd T/O bearing. Can't use existing linkage so it adds additional expense to an expensive swap. Also, I prefer the clutch master and slave design compared to the hyd T/O bearing if you can't run linkage.

I heard so many horror stories of the hydraulic TO bearings leaking, I decided to go with an external slave.

Since we made the jump to T56 discussions... I was trying to limit my initial reply to TKO because that's what was asked.

I dialed in my bell on the TKO. used a Lakewood bell, and a hydraulic clutch. Only time it shifted nice was when I drove like a grandma.

I used a T56 on the next ride. QuickTime bell, hybrid hydraulic clutch using OEM parts. Didn't have to correct bell runout at all. Result is night and day difference from a TKO. the T56 I'm using came out of an 06 Viper. I would strongly advocate the T56 over a TKO...even though the same company makes both. The only issue is the size of the T56 will not fit into classic iron without sheet metal mods.


So, a strong 5-spd OD trans that is very picky on install, needs set-up like open heart surgery, picky about clutch used, etc, or a strong 6 speed that accepts production line sloppiness, doesn't care about style of clutch used...

One can fit with minimal sheet metal mods, the other requires surgery.

External slave is nice if you have the room for it, surely the way to go, but most applications are going to use the internal hyd TOB because it's a basic install that fits a wide variety of applications, I myself have only grenaded 1 hyd TOB in the last 15+ years, but it was being used behind a non recommended pressure plate, had about 40K in mileage on it, numerous track runs, plus at the time it went I was power shifting at around 5500-6000 RPM but I still drove the car home with no clutch (not fun!) and with some light throttle application could coax the TKO in and out of gear without the clutch in traffic...

I've found that of the hyd TOB that leaked, or failed on other's vehicles was a result of over extending the travel of the unit, basically a result of not having the proper stack assy height to limit the travel of the TOB, seems a common issue on most forum discussions regardless of the kit supplier...

Mike

Dayclona, thanks for all the info, I'll read through it several times so it all sets in. If I end up going this route I will definitely make sure someone is helping me that knows what they're doing. I want it setup correctly and I'm definitely not afraid to cut up the floor to get driveline angles correct.
Thanks again!

70Cuda383, you guys are welcome to discuss any trans, I have no idea which one is best for me. Basically I just want to be able to run 10's at the track with about 600hp and be able to throw it into 5th gear on the drive home.

I don't know anything about the maintenance of these manual transmissions either, as far as how long the clutch will last and everything else.

Maintenance wise, either TKO or T56 is the same. As far as I know, neither trans has any longevity issues as far as eating bearings, etc. clutch life will depend on your use. Do you slip it a lot off the line to keep RPM up in the power band on launch? Is your linkage or hydraulics set up properly? Syncro life will also depend on a properly set up clutch especially if power shifting.

I like the T56 because almost every late model muscle/sports car is using it or the updated TR6060. So it has the reliability OEMs require. Hydraulics can be put together using off the shelf OEM parts, which again, meet OEM longevity issues. Mine is in a Dakota. I'm using a stock Dakota master, and a stock viper hyd. TO bearing. My T56 shifts way better than the TKO in the last Dakota I built. But on the flip side, my trans tunnel is big enough for the much larger 46RE OD Auto. The T56 fits fine. Putting one where a 727 was before can be tricky because of the much smaller tailshaft housing of a non-OD trans. That's where the TKO has an advantage. Gerko enterprises can get you everything needed to fit a TKO without surgery. Not the case with a T56. That's where you have to decide if you're willing to build a custom floor pan or not.

what about passions new a855 5 speed. proven strength of the 18 spline hemi trans and a 5th gear for cruising. they also say it will bolt right in place of an a833.

That sounds interesting!

This I agree with. I have rebuilt a few Tremics and the last one I did was in my buddies 69 Camaro with a 468 bigblock. After rebuilding it and putting better sycro's in it I also came to the conclusion that if I shifted this like I used to shift my 833 four speed I used to bracket race it would never work to good and I feel like I would break the internal linkage if I pulled the gears as hard and fast as I did with the Hurst Super Shifter on my 833. The guy that owns the car is not great stick driver and just dont shift it very fast even when he races it on the street as he has never taken it to the track. All I can say is I just dont like the flimsy feel of the ones I drove and I always feel like I am afraid to power shift the Tremec because I feel like I will break something on it. Ron

Shifting a TKO, even speed shifting a TKO has to be relearned (unless it's been faceplated) driving an 833 is a brutal affair vs a TKO, forcing a TKO into a shift only results in a lock out, esp the 2-3 shift, and it doesn't matter if the shift tower is remote or case mounted, I currently have TKO and 833 equipped rides, and each time I jump in one I have to remind myself of each trannys characteristics, if you don't shift a TKO on a regular basis, you often look like a novice learning how to drive/shift a standard, my 70 Charger has the console pistol grip shifter atop a TKO600, with that shifter on a 833 you would be knuckles to the dash, and elbow to the rear seat trying to shift, atop the TKO the throws are so short and the gate so narrow (A TKO equipped with the E/B body short pistol grip is amazing to shift vs the same set up on an 833), the shifter "barely" moves in comparison to the the 833 throws, once learned I can row through/speed shift as if it was 833 equipped, but the minute you lapse into the grab and stab shift mode your locked out

Mike

plus it's made of new high quality materials, I believe the gears are 9310 steel, most likely stronger than the old hemi boxes. I think they are pretty expensive at a little over 4k but for a transmission that started as a blank sheet of paper not bad. that's what I would have gotten if I had the money, for now I'll stick with my 23 spline 833. maybe one day..

And it is, Passon seems to have it finally sorted out after 6 years since it's initial inception, 2 downsides though, a .70 overdrive and the intergalactic back order/order time, if your build is 1-2 yrs out and this is the route you want, order/deposit now, a transmission might be available...


but in reality a T56 6spd is the optimum package to pursue IMHO

rated at 700 ft lb too.

Awesome, great info. The .70 will definitely be good enough for what I'm doing. I'll look into the T56 also but this 833 5speed has my attention, especially since it actually fits w/o cutting the car up.

An A833 transmission is not the only manual I have ever driven.

A Tremec is the only one I have to "relean" how to shift on apparently.

Long throws are a function moreso of the shifter mechanism, not the trans.

Tremecs still suck shifting no matter how some may dance.

agreed, to a point when altering shifter mechanisms, levers etc on the same transmission, but comparing the actual travel of the shift forks on an 833 to the shift rail travel a TKO is day and night in comparison

Yes, the A833 needs to move the shift forks farther.

Why?

Because the synchros are wider.

Which may very be why the A833 shifts better.

Compare an A833 synchro assembly to the Tremec version.

Looks like Goliath versus Tiny Tim

I have broke third gear in every one of mine, numerous times. Two of the cars are Chargers and two of them are Cuda converts.700hp. 660 tq in all of them. I have the passion 5 speed overdrive in the two convertibles. I'm on the list to get them for the Chargers now. They are very nice and handle the power. Also they really just Bolt in, no modifications

My new QuickTime bellhousing can totally use mechanical linkage. In fact it even comes with the pivot for the clutch Fork. I too prefer mechanical linkage👍

twayne24365 that trans you posted looks great. It looks like modified 833 and maybe it works as well when powershifting ? I like the looks of it and would love to drive a car with one in it. Ron

since others brought up the t56, i put one in my bb duster in 2010. i dont think there was a kit for t56 abody. i used a used viper trans, quicktime bell, replacement viper hydraulic t.o bearing, hays steel flywheel, and a ram clutch kit for a camaro. i just used a wilwood compact master cylinder on the firewall, welded a post to the side of the clutch pedal arm to bolt the m.c. rod end to. the whole swap was cheaper for me than any other overdrive option at that time. i do like the hydraulic clutch. i think the whole setup is great, we have pretty much covered the east coast with it.

only issue i have is if i dump the pedal something happens in the hyd system where it wont deliver fluid unless i jab the pedal real quick. its like that reseats it. i think the factory rubber stop for the pedal isnt hard enough and something happens to tbe piston in the mc. i havent figured that out i just altered my driving slightly. i cant blame the hydraulic clutch, its a combination that i really didnt know if it was even going to work.

yea it's a nice piece for sure. hopefully my 23 spline will take the beating I'm gonna give it with this 475hp motor, someday when more power comes along I'd like to get one of the a855 5 speeds.
it will make for an easy swap!

Did you check the preload on the Hyd clutch when you put it together? It's intended to be adjusted with shims.

honestly, i dont remember. im thinking i did measure it, but i definitely did not shim anything. i always thought it was an issue with my pedal and mc setup. you think it sounds more like a to bearing clearance issue?

Could be extending the bearing too far and it's binding on it's way back after dumping the pedal? Just a guess, but I ended up needing to order another shim from SST when I set my T56 Magnum bearing up. I assume the Viper T56 would be somewhat similar.

I haven't driven my car yet so I cannot say if it works or not.


" Clutch slippage will result if the CSC [Hyd Clutch TO Bearing] bottoms out and is partially depressing the pressure plate fingers at rest. "

https://shiftsst.com/media/wysiwyg/files/MAG-00402GMHydraulicManual_RevB.pdf

I saw nothing on their site as to what these are going for cost-wise. Can you clarify?

Thanks,

- EM

You didn't mention what site?, what transmission?


If it's a TKO your looking at $3500-$6000+ depending on what you require in a kit, most kits include a bellhousing, flywheel, clutch/pressure plate, tranny, crossmember/ tranny mount, speedo cable, drive shaft, and assorted hardware...shifters/pedals/hyd TOB's are extra options

If it's a Passon 855/5spd, last I recall the current price is $5295 that's for just the tranny/shifter and speedo cable last I recall

Sorry, it was the last several posts on the Passon 5-speed that I was asking about.

$5295 is ridiculous, I don't care how good it is. Sure there are probably a lot of guys who will just step up and get this without question. I can afford it but I can't justify it. I can buy or build a T-5 that will handle torque and HP capability in the 485/550 range and for $1700. That's $3600 left for other parts.

- EM

Well, it is what it is, so to speak, it's extremely limited production along with the what I'm sure is also labor intensive fabrication and assembly, so that combined with investment/tooling/overhead costs, and what profit margins you can squeeze out of it, dictate the final product's costs

As far as the T5, you'd be wasting your time honestly trying to put that into a performance build and expecting it to survive or perform to those levels

Mike

it doesnt slip. if i let the pedal fly, the pedal will get harder, the pedal will still move through its range but wont operate the clutch. if i give it a quick jab it will go back to normal. it happened to me 2 or 3 times. i might pull the 400 this year. if so ill measure again.

One of a few that I have found and am contemplating:

https://www.astroperformance.com/product/575-torque-ford-a-5-transmission-2/


This one is more $ but also more capable than what I mentioned. I'm willing to take the risk and spend a little more than 1/2 the cost of the Passon for my application (475-500 HP small block). This is one manufacturer but there are others. There are also many of these behind big HP street and dedicated drag racing cars so the build success is without question. If I was running larger HP or in a heavier car, I would not take this path.

- EM

[quote=earlymopar]One of a few that I have found and am contemplating:

https://www.astroperformance.com/product/575-torque-ford-a-5-transmission-2/


This one is more $ but also more capable than what I mentioned. I'm willing to take the risk and spend a little more than 1/2 the cost of the Passon for my application (475-500 HP small block). This is one manufacturer but there are others. There are also many of these behind big HP street and dedicated drag racing cars so the build success is without question. If I was running larger HP or in a heavier car, I would not take this path.

[quote]













Not bad, some decent upgrades, the T5 will limit your shifter location somewhat, if that's a concern? but at that price your already in TKO600 territory which has more shifter (even remote) applications...although the .60 OD offered is tempting for a T5 5 spd, Modern Driveline has a new tailshaft assy for the T5 to move the shifter forward about 9" if your interested

Mike

Yes, I am aware of that but I have not read one decent report on the shifting of the TKO 500 or 600. They have the torque capability without question but every report I have read from different users talked about having to short-shift to assure engagement.

Yes, I'm also aware of the tailshaft castings available. Modern Driveline's is a copy of the Chevy S10 casting. As well, there are some shifter off-set assemblies available but they come with bulk and are actually higher in cost than buying a used S10 casting (the lowest cost path).

- EM

I'll assume by "report" your referring to forum discussions...I mentioned earlier that if needed, carbon fiber syncros should be requested in a TKO purchase over the stock bronze syncros so that you could have higher (6000+ RPM) shifts, so that one could avoid "short shifting", but most buyers aren't aware of the upgrade, or perhaps informed of it, or unwilling to spend the additional $$$ for the upgrade, that and early user unfamiliarity with the shift gate/shifter, or a poorly dialed in bellhousing I find often leads to disgruntled owners complaints, plus a "NEW" TKO can be "balky" the first 200-500 miles during break-in shift wise...

Personally I've never had issues with the shifting, other than the "buzzsaw" effect on the shifter that came with using Gen 1 shift towers, a Gen 3 tower (which is basically the standard install now for most aftermarket kit suppliers)greatly reduces or eliminates the pulsation...plus a majority of the time regarding ANY subject matter those happy and content don't usually convey their satisfaction, esp on forums like this, you usually get the disgruntled user who I find in most cases unknowingly FUBAR'd his installation in some way, shape or form and is quick to blame anything but himself, or the "dog pilers" who haven't a clue what they're talking about or even any personal experience on the matter

Mike

https://youtu.be/ODQDwu-Z7hc

Dayclona is a paid spokesperson for Tremec.
Well it seems so...

Way too many shifting issues with the tremec everywhere, none from any Passon fine spline 4 speed or coarse spline 4sp OD or now the 5 speed. I would not run a tremec even if it fit correctly and was free.

Having been tortured with the tremec product from the bankrupt tenn snake charmers I torture tested all 3 Passon flavors on the road course with great success.
Jamie didn't pay me to say that.

I love the price whining - Sometimes you have to pay for quality and in the Passon product you get what you paid for.