As for me.... I'm probably nearing the end of this hobby.

The ROI, Return On Investment just isn't there for Mopar parts in general. We Have new blocks available, I've heard that Indy has pallets of them and Ritter took a huge leap and had them made but nobody wants to spend the money on them. I've seen a few Rittter blocks and they are very usable! I can't see any reason for anyone else to make them, and why would you? For 1/2 dozen or so guys who will complain about the price, work involved, wrong cam bearing, deck height, lifter angle, etc,etc,etc. This isn't 1978 when you can buy a new block for $200-300, with NO OPTIONS I might add, that needs work. I can't imagine why ANYONE would want a 59* block or a 9.5 deck height or regular cam bearings for that matter. This is 2016, soon to be 2017, not 1978. As for the Ritter blocks, Ken did his best to try to make a block that EVERYONE would be able to use for whatever application they had. Guys didn't/don't buy them because they take work??? There are a few guys on here that get it, as with most anything in life, you have to work for what you want, including making an engine run and making a block usuable. The rest think that because they have $$$ or spend X amount of $$$ that they shouldn't have to put the work in or have work done to a block to make it usable for THEIR APPLICATION. There is NO block out there that is ready to run direct from the manufacturer at ANY PRICE! From cylinder bore/finish, to deck height, they all need work! Not sure why everone is so bent on getting off the self parts for a race block??? Good pistons all cost the same as do good rods and billet camshafts and cranks, why not use this to your advantage???? A lot on here have no problem using the latest greatest CNC ported heads from this place or that guru or whatever, not realizing they are getting a copy of one port that was originally hand ported, made for one distinct combination, not for their combination or application! ... I have a new, unmachined, short deck 60mm cam bearing, unmachined lifter bank R3 block I paid $480.00, yes, $480.00 for that I'm dying to use but haven't finished tweaking my current combination. I'm sure I will have several thousand dollars into it, but it will be perfect for my combination and that is all that matters to me. If I needed a block, Ritter would be getting a call from me and my money.

the tall deck CFE chevy and ford blocks are for very large engines, 600+ inches. It is almost mandatory to be able to fit any kind of rod, crank and piston into an engine of that magnitude, along with a raised cam location to clear the crank throws.. Not sure how any type of power adder knows or cares what the deck height of an engines means/matters to it??? The deck thickness is pretty much the same on a 9.5 block as it is on a 9.0 block, if it wasn't, you could deck a 9.5 block down to 8.9 with no issues and still have plenty of deck thickness for boost or a blower or whatever, just depends on which block casting you have and how much you can mill it down as there have been several variations.

Sold 3400 in about 4 hrs.

the tall deck CFE chevy and ford blocks are for very large engines, 600+ inches. It is almost mandatory to be able to fit any kind of rod, crank and piston into an engine of that magnitude, along with a raised cam location to clear the crank throws.. Not sure how any type of power adder knows or cares what the deck height of an engines means/matters to it??? The deck thickness is pretty much the same on a 9.5 block as it is on a 9.0 block, if it wasn't, you could deck a 9.5 block down to 8.9 with no issues and still have plenty of deck thickness for boost or a blower or whatever, just depends on which block casting you have and how much you can mill it down as there have been several variations.