New R blocks

Has anyone heard about the R blocks being reproduced again I was looking at the W7-8-9 facebook page and there is a guy talking about having them reproduced and is working with mopar on trying to make this happen hope it works out

Not gonna hold my breath on that one

He has located the molds and everything and is trying to get Fiat to sign off on it. Did some work on it at pri last week. Hope it comes true, don't feel like starting over with a big block or 3rd gen hemi when this motor is worn out.

In some ways to me it almost seems that the gen 3 is the future and not far off our LA based junk will simply be outdated by performance standards.

He is putting in a bunch of time into this deal. He is trying to get the W8 and W9 tooling as well

Hope this is true........

I'm not holding my breath either... my next engine will
be a gen3... he may be putting the time in BUT its the
money that will have to go in for this project.. I sure
wouldnt put a deposit down till I see blocks

I sure
wouldnt put a deposit down till I see blocks


Mr P. I was thinking if I was the one doing it id have to have deposits across the board, many people want a race block, the are R3-s for sale semi common today so do folks think the new R block is going to be priced cheaper then the old R-s when new?

There are other guys saying they have blocks coming
with deposits on them.. they are still waiting... I
dont think they will be cheaper so who knows what the
price would be IF this ever happens

I sure hope it happens I need two 9.600 48* blocks

I have a brand new one on a skid I would sell but, I'm not giving it away?

Rod

Sold 3400 in about 4 hrs.

That may be true.....BUT, even as popular as LS based motors are, guys are still building high performance traditional SBCs every day. Not to mention the GEN III aftermarket is small as well. No way Mopars of any kind are going to be as popular as Chevy and Ford but LA based parts will sell

I've been saying this for years...whoever does sb mopar blocks, if they do them right, will make $$$$$$$$!

i agree, if an aftermarket makes sb Mopars where we cab build them without any connection to fiat, life will be grand

I would love to have a 48* block although I don't feel like I'm near the limits of the 59* stuff at all

I think from memory they will start with a 48* degree block in one configuration and expand from there.

Yes 48 degree tall deck from the reading on the W7-8-9 facebook page

I spoke with rick at edelbrock while at pri, he told me that someone was buying the r block molds. So seems like word is getting around. I hope something happens soon or else I'm going gen3

The ROI, Return On Investment just isn't there for Mopar parts in general. We Have new blocks available, I've heard that Indy has pallets of them and Ritter took a huge leap and had them made but nobody wants to spend the money on them. I've seen a few Rittter blocks and they are very usable! I can't see any reason for anyone else to make them, and why would you? For 1/2 dozen or so guys who will complain about the price, work involved, wrong cam bearing, deck height, lifter angle, etc,etc,etc. This isn't 1978 when you can buy a new block for $200-300, with NO OPTIONS I might add, that needs work. I can't imagine why ANYONE would want a 59* block or a 9.5 deck height or regular cam bearings for that matter. This is 2016, soon to be 2017, not 1978. As for the Ritter blocks, Ken did his best to try to make a block that EVERYONE would be able to use for whatever application they had. Guys didn't/don't buy them because they take work??? There are a few guys on here that get it, as with most anything in life, you have to work for what you want, including making an engine run and making a block usuable. The rest think that because they have $$$ or spend X amount of $$$ that they shouldn't have to put the work in or have work done to a block to make it usable for THEIR APPLICATION. There is NO block out there that is ready to run direct from the manufacturer at ANY PRICE! From cylinder bore/finish, to deck height, they all need work! Not sure why everone is so bent on getting off the self parts for a race block??? Good pistons all cost the same as do good rods and billet camshafts and cranks, why not use this to your advantage???? A lot on here have no problem using the latest greatest CNC ported heads from this place or that guru or whatever, not realizing they are getting a copy of one port that was originally hand ported, made for one distinct combination, not for their combination or application! ... I have a new, unmachined, short deck 60mm cam bearing, unmachined lifter bank R3 block I paid $480.00, yes, $480.00 for that I'm dying to use but haven't finished tweaking my current combination. I'm sure I will have several thousand dollars into it, but it will be perfect for my combination and that is all that matters to me. If I needed a block, Ritter would be getting a call from me and my money.

$8700.00 invested into a Ritter block and the man has the block and has given zero back for two years now. I wouldn't buy one, would want to take the chance with my hard earned money and his track record. Another member here has ground the name Ritter off the side of his block he has so may troubles with it.

I was dangerously close to the Ritter deal in 12..... but was convinced by a couple to go the R3 route (were still in the system in 12) especially since I work at a dealer. Later through the small block brotherhood I learned why. A lot of folks were guinea pigs for his (Ritter) venture. To be fair there is a member here in Kansas that has his aluminum piece going and it's alive. There another built at Trumble racing engines recently with the new Ebrock heads up and running. Light at the end of the tunnel I guess, but not sure I'd risk it. Brian at IMM has had one on order to do a build. I'd like to see more successful builds so there is a viable option. As for me.... I'm probably nearing the end of this hobby. If I destroy the 9.20 piece in the car, I do have a 9.0 piece here I could play with. I'd just have to procure the dry sump tank etc... I'm not making huge HP so my stuff "should/hopefully" last a long time.

Didn't you just have a birthday? Not even close yet. You might need to head east and we can hit Whiskey Row

So I guess all these new tall blocks cfe and others are making for the Chevy and ford crowd are stupid and a waste of money? 9.0 deck maybe ok for na stuff but much easier to make them live on power adders with a taller deck.

I was gonna look into a Ritter block but at the
time a couple of guys were TRYING to build one..
with all the problems they were having I passed
on it.. I already had a R3 in the car but I wanted
something for my 59* heads.. I bought my R3 for
cheap at the Indy swap meet.. I had to work on it
but some of the stuff anyone would do to a new block..
line bore the mains and cam tunnel, bore the cyls..
plus I had to clearance the area around the main webs
to clear the counter weights(I had turned down the counter
weights already and it still hit) but it was no big deal..
I did alot of the same stuff on my new Mega block.. and I
heat treated that block before any work was done on it
EDIT
I would like to buy a alum LA block

the tall deck CFE chevy and ford blocks are for very large engines, 600+ inches. It is almost mandatory to be able to fit any kind of rod, crank and piston into an engine of that magnitude, along with a raised cam location to clear the crank throws.. Not sure how any type of power adder knows or cares what the deck height of an engines means/matters to it??? The deck thickness is pretty much the same on a 9.5 block as it is on a 9.0 block, if it wasn't, you could deck a 9.5 block down to 8.9 with no issues and still have plenty of deck thickness for boost or a blower or whatever, just depends on which block casting you have and how much you can mill it down as there have been several variations.

I dont know of or ever heard of a 600+ SBM.. only
one guy tried a 501ci.. it had issues.. I'd rater
have a 440ci if I wanted a big ci.. but I prefer
to have a bit smaller bores just to keep thick walls
and save it for another bore job

Those are 4.5" bore space blocks.

There are tall deck chevy smallblock blocks (4.400 bore spacing) with a raised cam. That's for those 4" and 4.125" cranks. Remember the Rocket Block? I believe you can buy (stock is 9.025") 9.300, 9.500 and maybe 9.600.

LS motors you can find either a 9.750 or 9.800 (stock is 9.240)

Thee are probably more but I didn't want to strain myself.
.

R.

There are 2 running Ritter blocks out of Trumble's shop. One is ours with the Victor heads and the other is a 71 Duster stocker that went 10.36 in D/SA and have had none of the problems others have. As has been discussed the blocks require some work because they were meant to fit several different configurations. We got the latest version of his block and it appears that he fixed a lot of the things that are talked about on this site you just have to make it fit your combination.

Ray Buckner

F@$&!!!

Any xr2 s running?

Why are we talking about 2 or 3 blocks running when this block has been out for over five years. I know of 18 that had large issues and some were not buildable.

I guess you never heard of compression height! That what a 9.0 deck build doesn't have. Don't tell me to run shorter rods as you need longer rods to clear large strokes. 1500 hp isn't uncommon and it's hard to make that with 358".

I have both a aluminum Ritter and an R3 block together and running. both are 9.5" deck, the Ritter is 48* and the R3 is 59*. There are things I like better about both block. After a lot of input from severel members who told me the issues they had with there Ritter blocks, I have it running and everything is looking really good. If I had it to do all over again I would still do the Ritter block it wasn't that bad. I think he has most of the problems worked out. I also had a lot of problems with my R3 block. I think either block will make some good reliable power, granted I am a N/A guy, but if you going to go with a power adder then you defiantly need a good block.

I consider all blocks, new or old, when prepped for race use, will need to be mocked up and subject to several standard machine operations. If the part has been cast with necessary blueprint features missing, it's a door stop. If the manufacturer clearly states the design and casting errors up front, let the buyer beware. If there have been revisions to the original, flawed design, those purchasers should get the corrected block.

I have no idea how many blocks are out there with problems just saying that I know the 2 I've seen run are fine just needed things fixed to make it work for the intended use.I wouldn't think twice about buying and building another.Also I have had 2 R3 stocker engines and they needed quite a bid of work to get ready,it's part of racing a Mopar. This is all we have to work with until someone steps up with another option or,god forbid,we build a chevy

Ray Buckner

Does anyone know the price on a Ritter block and
is he making them in a 59* also... I already sold
off all my 48* stuff so I want a 59*
thanks

I'm one of the stupid, i guess, for running a 9.6" deck R3. With a 4" stroke and 6.2" rods, it keeps my R/S angle very reasonable while having 422 cubes. Could do it with a low deck, but why side load the crap out of the cylinders with a horrible R/S angle when you don't have too. Maybe this is why other manufactures make tall deck block versions....hmmmm.

How did Ritter get a block approved for Stock???????????

I knew stock was never stock but cheese and rice guy's if they now allow after market blocks it's really messed up.

Ritters block can be made to any lifter angel is what I was told by ritter when I was looking for a block before I found a R 3 block

E-mail Kent Ritter directly for more details or to place an order. kent.e.ritter@arvos-group.com

Cell: 585-610-9979

The block is not assembly ready.
It will require blueprinting operations such as boring, honing, decking, line-honing etc...
Many custom operations are available and may be required for each customers application, all of which we can perform here in our shop.

These Ritter blocks can be somewhat custom ordered. Some of the options include;

Block Height
Rough Bore
Main bore size
cam bearing type
Lifter angles
Roller cam bearings
LA style rocker arm oiling
Standard OEM cam bearings
9.00" or 9.600" block height
48º or 59º lifter angles
Let Kent know what you need.

Did you order one

Why? You put the correct heads, on the correct deck, with the correct lifter angle and it's cast.....what does it matter. Does that mean you think all the HEMI guys or whoever should have to use stock blocks that are virtually impossible to find

heck Hemi guys can't be too smart.... they forgot where the intake port ends and the valve cover begins!

Stock should mean factory stock especially with the block but what do I know. B1 heads should be legal to then. Lol. Maybe I should build a Ritter aluminum small block with ported W9 heads and run stock class. Maybe I could hide a small nos kit too or is that legal?

We are talking about a BLOCK. Please explain the huge advantage that gives

you're welcome to try.... but they do that lil thing called tear down.

My question was simply wondering how a completely aftermarket block got accepted into Stock when it has always been that you had to use production pieces with numbers that matched the model year of your car.

I know they have loosened up a lot of rules.

If Kent ritter was on fire.I would not waste my piss in him...I have had 2 blocks..both were junk... apparently the new blocks are better... but he has ruined his name and credibility.... he sold blocks knowing they were no good and couldn't be fixed... I know block number 003 was sold to two different people. Knowing it was junk.. there's people that will not even post on this site anymore over this block....

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/mc/cylinder-heads/nhra-approved.shtml

Larry Gilley runs Ebrocks on his "stock eliminator" small block Dart.

Get NHRA to approve it, there is a process and hurdles to jump.
http://www.nhra.com/userfiles/file/NHRA%20Component%20Acceptance%20Process.pdf

Like Monte said no advantage.

Take a ton of money to make work and a HP hit , I can have a set of cast heads done cheaper.

I think if the R block is able to be reproduced it will out sell the ritter block for sure

Hasn't been that way in years

It will never fly, I just listed a new short block again, and every time I list a bare block I get pelted with crap offers.

So this will be my third race block install into a 550hp street motor if this dont sell in the last 3 years, silly I know but I dont have many oem blocks.

So really thats why I posted that if the guy does get it together Id get every single deposit prior to the first pouring.

How many here really need a race based block, how many split blocks do we see posted of a properly built motor?

Very few.

I feel better running a siamese 48 degree block.... but I don't see a lot of stock block combo's running 9.4's or better. We were close with our stock block program dipping into 9.8's, but in changing to a 48 degree head we went R3.

What deck height is this block? People don't want short deck blocks, and you can pick them up reasonably.

4 bolt X with 40 minutes run since it was new listed for $2250+shipping and thats a big hit to me with 1k in machine work.

I just put a $2600 K1 kit in it and have it priced at $3500 for the short block, but would pull it apart to dump the block.

Id hit ebay with it but it but dang, another 10% down the tubes, nope.

Look at the pic, im dead serious, if I cant sell some junk its getting a 484/284 hydro cam, j heads where any junko 318 block would work but im done buying parts when I got plenty to use.

Ive one new untouched R (not currently for sale) tall and when I would of sold it for $1500 when I needed to move one less then a year ago with the only stip it had to be picked up in person I was still asked to get shipping quotes.

I did recently pull 4k for a over the counter no vin t/a block but for obvious reasons.

Id bet 99% of the people who run an R couldnt hurt an X and they are so stealth like.

What's the deck height?

Std. 340 specs.

"X" block Brad.... pretty sure all 9.56 deck. my 9.20 deck didn't bother me. The 9.0 deal does as I'm dry sump stupid. I do have the pump and pan so I guess that's half the battle.

No just sold a short 9.0 50mm roller x block seven months ago.

Did you own that block the whole time or bought
it used.. I think that was worked on.. just a guess
but every X block I seen or owned was the 9.56 and
has stock bearings

personally I hope that the r blocks do get produced again don`t see the market being that large because as been stated many times the select few that really want to run hard with a Chrysler powerplant is just that few and far between don't know all the circumstances between kent ritter and his first couple block customers because I wasn't involved in their transactions emails voicemails or whatever form of conversations nor is it any of my business all I can say is there have been great strides in producing the ritter blocks from switching who is pouring them to changes in machining them are they ready to bolt together out of the crate heck no we have a friend with a w9 ritter block ran all summer in pro stick series near us had some minor issues with his block but had it up and running in 3 months time out of his own backyard shop 8.80s all summer long with a stick likes it so well he ordered another just to have it to do for a backup so if any unforeseen thing happens he wont miss any points races kent has even been to the track with him and kept in contact thru the season to make sure all is well as brad said the need for a tall deck small block is there because you just cant squeeze a 4 in or larger crank a 6 in or longer rod and get a decent ring pack in because your compression height will be 1in in a 9 in deck block you will pinch the ringlands as soon as you hit it with anything so sure I hope it happens I would like to see everyone in a mope running 8 50s lol

Not to dog pile on Ritter but ive got a useless R5 to 727 adapter on my shop wall at over $700 thats not even close to working and if it did the holes are so loose id have to helicoil them like he should of.

I went with another vendor for the right part at 1/3 his price, ive not even moderately impressed with his work, just know he commands top money for everything.

So you never did send me that shipping quote on one of the new R blocks you had. Remember we started communicating in December of last year and the last I heard was in April of this year. At that time you told me you were attached to the X block and would sell me a R block.

I still have all the PM's.

Yep and if you recall my health.... it got worse, thought it was a bad tooth, advanced lung/throat cancer.... well ive done very little this last year and probably wont see Christmas next year.

If ya could of drove here ya could of got it. But I got layed up with treatment for nothing.


Only raced 4 times this year and only built two motors.

This was 4 days ago....

I knew you had the wisdom tooth problems but didn't know about other health problems. When I didn't hear anything back from you I figured something was up. Sorry about your health problems.

It was on here years ago, Dave W from procharger had it.