Running stock mopar wiring(new harnesses) on a 470 stroker. I have the firecore distributor and wires, the revvnator box (although I haven't used it yet, still running the orange box), the distributor is junk (never ran right, found out the magnetic pickup came loose, brand new unit with less than 100 km on the damn thing) I'm just so sick and tired of not having my car run right, buying new products and having them fail out of the box, I just want to start my car and drive when I turn the key. Is that too hard to ask???!!! I've already eliminated the voltage regulator by using the upgraded denso unit, I did the bulkhead by pass upgrade, Is there anything else I can do to make my life easier? I think I'll be buying the FItech EFI unit, and I would like a distributor or ignition system that was trouble free. What distributors would you recommend? Please help! This winter I want to eliminate the BS and just be able to drive the car when spring arrives.

I've always had good luck recurving a stock, electronic pickup Chrysler distributor to an MSD 6AL analog box. Car is stone reliable, starts instantly, looks stock (MSD is hidden) and gets good mileage. I installed a dial rev limiter so I can adjust it.

I feel your pain, though, as we recently tried a DIGITAL 6AL box on a Roadrunner and it was junk out of the box.

Sounds like the mini pop rivet came loose and gave erratic timing/hard starting/incorrect timing and or took out the reluctor teeth (rare on the rivet but has happened). I would replace what is damaged & its likely just as easy to get a used 70's electronic dist. reduce lower shaft end play to .005". check/fix bottom tang to intergear slot interface rotational play. check/correct rotor phasing as needed. longer rotor from NAPA or make your own blade (drill out the rivet) to reduce terminal tip gap to .015". set initial/total/spring combo/vac can (if used) in order. You can solder in a side oiler like the 60's dists used (they are available). this will give you a reliable dist, you have the box and I am assuming a coil to match & firecore plug wires get rave reviews. get a tan cap with ribs and brass terminals from Joesixpack

I subscribe to K.I.S.S. engineering when it comes to ignition systems, I've been running Pertronix hardware since it's inception in the late 80's/early 90's on Industrial, Marine, DD's, the toys, racecars, you name it with NEVER a single failure to date with any Pertronix component...I've been thru all the other systems on the market, I feel your angst

Wow, it is a bummer to have something fail, right out of the box. It sounds like the pickup was loose from Day One.

Have you given the company a chance to make good? Sounds like you haven't. The guy behind the company is board member "Sunroof GTX" and as far as I know has never stiffed a customer. I guess it's easier to go online and trash someone.

One could certainly redo a genuine Mopar distributor (actually Prestolite) but unless you are going to dial in the advance curve it won't run as well as an operating Firecore.

If I was going to buy a fuel injection system I'd think seriously about using one that also runs the spark. Then all the distributor has to do is hold the intermediate shaft down and point the rotor at the right place in the cap. Curves are adjustable electronically so I could experiment.

R.

If you get the FITech EFI 4 / 600 HP or larger system, it will control your ignition timing. The timing control uses a standard two wire magnetic pickup distributor with the advance curve locked out, so a stock magnetic unit should work once the advance is locked out, or even a learn burn unit would work.
The EFI unit has a single out to the ignition coil, or it can trigger a CD ignition box which will drive the ignition coil.

you could get a std 70's electronic dist with the vac can then on your bench pump up the can with a vacuum pump till the rotor phasing is dead on (if/as needed to correct it if needed) then drill straight down thru the 2 plates & lock em in that position with a small bolt/nut with a spacer inbetween the 2 plates to keep em from tilting as the bolt is tightened. Not sure how I would lock out the weights (never done it) but with a visual it wouldn't be too hard to (easily) solve. EDIT Likely I would make a plate like the FBO unit then nothing is changed/altered & can easily be returned to stock at a later date as things change. MORE EDIT Then you can remove the can & cover the rectangular opening for a more aesthetic appearance.

myself, i have run the stock Chrysler electronic units for years im my personal and customers vehicles with little to no problems. Same stock stuff for the GM and Ford customers. Use quality components, set up the advance curves, wire the correctly, turn the key and go. We have also had reasonably good luck with the petronix conversions but have had several pickups go bad.
I was taught that the factory boys aren't stupid and the systems they designed have logged millions of miles. Not to say they can't be improved upon but I feel that 90% of the aftermarket hype is driven by marketing of the product(s). MSD is a perfect example, most street driven cars see little to no benefit from adding their pricey components. My other complaint is when an aftermarket component fails you are screwed especially if you happen to be a ways from home. Try finding a replacement cap / rotor, controller at the local parts store.

Pertronix "plug and play" billet distributor on my 440.. 10 years and never has missed a beat...

Points or Pertronix don't care they work and never let me down and if they would fail are easy to fix. Had enough of the the stupid MSD failures and mystery no starts with the Mopar perf junk. Only had one stock control box fail due to bad rusty ground. Now I use accell and Pertronix conversion used it last 12 years and no problem

Said this before MSD should be used on Race only cars they are not for the average daily or weekly driver. Too unreliable

Exactly the opposite in my "neck of the woods", All the local parts stores (Advance/CQ/AZ/NAPA/etc/etc) all carry Pertronix, MSD, Accel, etc, etc regularly stocked...trying to find points/condensor, ballast resistor or even a stock ECU is near impossible, plus trying to educate the counter person what those components are, compound the matter!

Hello. Very sorry about the problem. We've had some of these that just couldn't get running right, but not many after the updates we've made. Especially the Electronic units. Great luck with them. Did you cal and did we speak? Troy at RT Garage insists on taking all of the tech calls.

You may be an exception to the rule. 15 years ago finding replacement parts for an after market ignition system was a Pray to ??
At that time they typically did not have replacement parts but "had a new system" on the shelf for XXX amount. So here we are 15 years later and while Your locality may offer support, drive 1 or 200 miles out of town for a 'smaller" car show, have your AFTER MARKET, Special, rotor, cap, control module take a dump.


30+ years ago I got stuck in the middle of a LARGE populated area (think SILICON VALLEY) with a broken "SPECIAL" Mallory rotor. We had a lot of local speed shops that MAY have had the SPECIAL Mallory rotor, but they were all closed. Keeping in mind this was 30+ years ago, There were multiple "SERVICE STATIONS" (yeah remember those/) with tune up cabinets Stocked full of REPLACEMENT OEM Parts, and they were within walking distance and OPEN.
IF your local parts boys can't find a factory replacement component for an electronic ignition system produced since 1975, maybe you need to help them ???

No offense meant to you for your opinion, Just a extrapolation on mine

stock electronic dist and a crome box almost never fails !

recurve the dist to your engine combo - done.

I haven't called yet, I bought the distributor over two years ago at the beginning of the build, now a couple years later I finally get to drive my car and had nothing but problems all summer, its just frustrating having brand new parts that fail, especially in canada as we already pay more for these parts, shipping, duties ect. Yours isn't the first part that this has happened, its just one of many that has prevented me from enjoying my hard labor, wasted dyno time, money, ect, and it pains me to have it sit there, its just the straw that broke the camels back...