About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
#2147592
09/04/16 10:08 PM
09/04/16 10:08 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
AZ_A12_BEE
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a brand new 6.4 Hemi fir my 37 Plymouth pickup. I will be using a 545RFE automatic transmission and a B body 4.10 Dana 60. Both engines are the same price.
Motor #1 has a rear sump pan, automatic flywheel and the exhausts are more straight heading towards the firewall
69.5 A12 Bee, first purchased in 1976, car 169 on registry
69 Coronet R/T 440/4 spd
69 Coronet 500 Conv H code 383 4bbl/auto
37 Plymouth PU
Find your spot on earth and ride it.
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Re: About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
[Re: AZ_A12_BEE]
#2147597
09/04/16 10:13 PM
09/04/16 10:13 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
AZ_A12_BEE
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
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Motor #2 has more of a mid engine sump, clutch/flywheel for a manual transmission, the exhaust manifolds seem to dump in a more downward direction, it looks like the divers side manifold might have more issues with the steering column
69.5 A12 Bee, first purchased in 1976, car 169 on registry
69 Coronet R/T 440/4 spd
69 Coronet 500 Conv H code 383 4bbl/auto
37 Plymouth PU
Find your spot on earth and ride it.
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Re: About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
[Re: AZ_A12_BEE]
#2147848
09/05/16 10:33 AM
09/05/16 10:33 AM
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,510
AZ
Mike P
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,510
AZ
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Have you decided on your front suspension yet? On the Mustang II setup I'm running and the other Mustang II based units I've seen, the crossmember you weld in lines up with the center of the wheels and uses a front mounted rack. The rear sump pan will work with no problem and the center sump would probably work. If you're using some other suspension especially one with a rear mount rack the center sump pan may become a problem. As far as the exhaust, the exhaust on the second engine looks like it might be a bit wide to fit but that will depend on the height you set the engine at. The exhaust on the first engine might work better but it could get a little tight making the bend required to clear the firewall. Either one could present a challenge getting the steering shaft(s) connected between the column and the steering rack. One of the things I found on mine was that clearing the back of the block was almost as much of a problem as getting it past the exhaust.  In spite of how it looks it does turn smoothly and with the power rack there is not a lot of strain on the joints. If I ever redo it (or had it to do over again), I would probably look at using a “Steer Clear” box drop and eliminate the upper steering shaft. http://www.wizardsteerclear.com/.
1957 Plymouth (Hemi, Dual Quads, A833 4 Speed 9 1/4 w 4.10) Sold
1937 Dodge Pickup (Hemi, 6X2 intake, 46RH, Dana 60 w 4.56) Sold
1968 Plymouth Valiant 2dr sedan (354 HEMI, 46RH w/4.30 gears)
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Re: About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
[Re: Mike P]
#2148520
09/06/16 01:53 AM
09/06/16 01:53 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
AZ_A12_BEE
OP
I Live Here
|
OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
|
Have you decided on your front suspension yet? On the Mustang II setup I'm running and the other Mustang II based units I've seen, the crossmember you weld in lines up with the center of the wheels and uses a front mounted rack. The rear sump pan will work with no problem and the center sump would probably work. If you're using some other suspension especially one with a rear mount rack the center sump pan may become a problem. As far as the exhaust, the exhaust on the second engine looks like it might be a bit wide to fit but that will depend on the height you set the engine at. The exhaust on the first engine might work better but it could get a little tight making the bend required to clear the firewall. Either one could present a challenge getting the steering shaft(s) connected between the column and the steering rack. One of the things I found on mine was that clearing the back of the block was almost as much of a problem as getting it past the exhaust. In spite of how it looks it does turn smoothly and with the power rack there is not a lot of strain on the joints. If I ever redo it (or had it to do over again), I would probably look at using a “Steer Clear” box drop and eliminate the upper steering shaft. http://www.wizardsteerclear.com/. Mike, I will be using a Mustang II front suspension
69.5 A12 Bee, first purchased in 1976, car 169 on registry
69 Coronet R/T 440/4 spd
69 Coronet 500 Conv H code 383 4bbl/auto
37 Plymouth PU
Find your spot on earth and ride it.
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|
|
Re: About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
[Re: poorboy]
#2148522
09/06/16 01:55 AM
09/06/16 01:55 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
AZ_A12_BEE
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 18,575
Dreaming of the 808
|
Looks to me like motor would be the best choice, and then I would expect to be buying a set of center dump headers. Any hot rod I've ever done made better use of a rear sump pan. Gene Will the headers add additional horsepower? Any link to header suppliers?
69.5 A12 Bee, first purchased in 1976, car 169 on registry
69 Coronet R/T 440/4 spd
69 Coronet 500 Conv H code 383 4bbl/auto
37 Plymouth PU
Find your spot on earth and ride it.
|
|
|
Re: About to buy a motor, which one would work best?
[Re: AZ_A12_BEE]
#2149286
09/07/16 12:05 AM
09/07/16 12:05 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992
Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
Mopar Ron
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,992
Escondido, CA. Ron Podsiadly,...
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I'm about to pull the trigger on a brand new 6.4 Hemi fir my 37 Plymouth pickup. I will be using a 545RFE automatic transmission and a B body 4.10 Dana 60. Both engines are the same price.
Motor #1 has a rear sump pan, automatic flywheel and the exhausts are more straight heading towards the firewall if you don't mind me asking, what does a 6.4 go for these days? and as far as the pan goes, rear sump always seams to work in early year cars and trucks but center drop also work depending on engine location. with the mustang II style front end and the rack in front of the cross member you usually have good room behind it.
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