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I set mine up in a double shear arrangement. The one in back is welded and bolted, the one in front is just bolted so the engine can be easily removed.

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Problem.... take the front bracket off, other wise
you have to go up and over it to drop in the engine.
I know you have it bolted, just weld the rear one
in place and you wont need the front one and you wont
have bolts coming loose

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Looks good so far but you don't need the front brackets.

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I agree with Mr_P_Body See my signature link photos... I welded the bracket in front and is a bit of a hassle going up and over as it's a pretty snug fit. Would have been better with bracket behind the plate..

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if you weld the plate in the front its a pain to do

but if you pass a long bolt througth the frame rail its only one bolt per side to do


I did mine so you use the whole frame rail to hold the moter in place, then just welding the bracket on a thin metal rail on top

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I would also add engine limiters to take the torque of the launch

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What do your limiters look like? Are they off the factory ears on the block? I thought the motor plate would limit engine movement without the need for limiters.

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I would also add engine limiters to take the torque of the launch

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What do your limiters look like? Are they off the factory ears on the block? I thought the motor plate would limit engine movement without the need for limiters.

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I dont think I have any pics but yes I use the motor
mount ears to a tab welded to the chassis/frame. You
could incorporate the motor plate tab and the limiter
tab all in one. A flat plate isnt the best thing to
control fore/aft movement, specially if you launch hard

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As long as I'm re-doing the motor, I figured I'd fix the motor plate setup and down bars as well.

Here is how it was set up before.


Can't see it well in the pic, but the motorplate mounted to tabs on the downbars from the backside, so there's no way to pull the motor with the plate attached.
Major PITA.

Now don't laugh, cause it looks bad now, but the block is just an old junker to use for positioning, the real one is at the machine shop.
Anyway, the plate is replaced by elephant ears (although I'm seriously considering an AR Engineering plate instead.


The ears are bolted from the frontside to tabs welded to the frame rails.


Also re-did the down bars to lay them over next to the inner fenders and they are stitched to the shock towers.





It's still ugly, but as soon as I pull the old block out I'll be re-painting the engine bay, re-doing the wiring and re-plumbing the brake, trans and fuel lines.

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