Here is a video I just did for easy bar removal. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/QNBA13z_OfU

Getting ready to do this tomorrow...Thanks!

Will be doing it on my 65 Coronet that hasn't had the bars out since the early 80's.

I am in the process of rebuilding the front end and suspension of my 70 A66 Challenger vert
Did some research on this before I started

Cleaned the torsion bar rear cross member slot out, soaked with CRC after removing the clip
Sprayed the CRC in the front K frame area where the bar goes in
Removed bolts holding the strut in (after soaking of course)
Removed the sway bar bolts to the K frame
Removed the bolt going to the lower control arm stud
Lightly pried the lower control arm back

I was lucky- torsion bar slid right out in back.

Was surprised, but I soaked everything CRC, cleaned out areas where I could reach. Everything worked out without the need for the torsion bar removal tool.

Rebuilding the lower control arm and bushing removal will be a story for another day!

For those watching the OP's link, do not adjust your monitor

I swapped out two TB sets this morning. On my cars I can seldom get away without at least removing the UCA droop snubber and or the shock lower thru bolt.

On a related note, anybody use a "system" to mark their TB's? I paint the rear ends of the TB's, red for left, white for right, also helps slightly read the numbers if needed when installed. I'm also ditching the TB rear boots, they don't like the bigger bars, seem to tear on frequent changes, my cars don't see a lot of inclement weather, and never dirt roads. Dab of grease for me.

edit: The above is incomplete. the OP's link noting loosening the LCA nut and knocking pin loose is the method on OEM rubber type bushings, on my recent experience with nylon/delrin and greaseable LCA pins, not so much. Sorry for any misdirection.

CRC what?

CRC is a company, http://crcindustries.com/globalhome/

Sorry, probably showing my age.
CRC was at the time, the generic term we used for the penetrant/lubricant, basically rust buster that we used in the shop I worked in 40 years ago.
Worked great then, works great now.
Guess they expanded their line of products in the last 4 decades

Kind of like "Liquid Wrench", we also used their penetrant, but they make other products. Just another shop term from back in day!

When I think CRC I think Brakleen, I was thinking you were cleaning the old grease out.

Yea, been using that too to clean up parts.
Nasty stuff, but works great

Just don't get any in your eye, it hurts, alot.

For sure you need to remove any goo and junk from the socket area before. The Challenger that I was working on was fairly clean but there were some burrs in the socket that prevented them from sliding out. A couple of licks with a file and zippity doo dah they came out. For sure the rust belt boys will have more of a challenge. Like I said in the video, which I'll try to redo with a better camera so's its more clear, it may not work for everyone depending on the condition of your car. I'm glad its working out for some of you though!

I have a question about removing a T-bar.. I was always told not to use channel locks (or similar tool) to grab T-bar then bang them out with a hammer on the channel locks, because the teeth in the channel lock can scrape/scratch the T-bar. Apparently the scrapes can cause the T-bar to crack and break. Is this really true? An old chrysler dealership mechanic told me this was BS and thats how they typically removed them.

Lots of mechanics think they are mechanics because they can spell mechanic.

It's called a stress riser. Will it cause a failure, depends, can it cause a failure, yes.

In low performance stock type usage, the likelihood of a failure is at it's lowest, short of not using it at all. In this forum I'd say the likelihood is higher, especially with higher rate bars.

Lots of technical papers out there covering this.

Supercuda I was hesitant to believe him, because Ive read a lot of similar info to what you posted. This must have just been another way to cut down on time when making repairs art the dealership. On a side not, he is an excellent engine mechanic, and has helped me several times on other issues and is extremely intelligent and a good friend. I think the majority of the cars he worked on in the 70s at his time at the dealership were not high performance, so none of them that this method was used on ever developed stress risers/failures.

Ask him if he'd put a rod in that had a nick on the beam. If he says yes he's not a good mechanic, if he says no ask him why.

Same reason for not nicking a torsion bar.

there used to be a guy around here that always said : "you can tell if a guy is a good mechanic by the amount of pieces he has left after a job is done and the car runs. the more parts left over, the better a mechanic he is." the trouble was, this guy believed it ! i wouldn't take my tinker toy set to him for repair.........