10.50's @ 3300lbs will be a stretch IMO. Go on a diet. As said, you don't have to lose your mind on oiling system mods. My sm blk sees 7K regularly with nothing more than cleaned up / smoothed passages and a HV pump, thin, full synthetic oil. What size needles / seats will you be running on that TQ? Keeping enough fuel in the bowls could be an issue.

What does bushing the lifters do for oiling? Does it "save" the oil for the mains/rods since it's not bleeding past the lifters or supplying oil to the hydraulic slack adjustment in the lifters? Do you still need to drill a small hole in them to give lubrication to lifter/bushing interface? Or is splash lubrication enough to not have the lifters seize in their bores since there's no load on them?

If not running PR oiling then I didnt add any
hole.. the drain back gives plenty for the lifter
and splash does the rest(we are taking solid rollers)

8500 every pass with 360 bored .100" over. Light pistons and aluminum rods. Tube in the block with crane rollers. We heads and Harland sharp rockers.

That's 3.58 stroke cast crank. With a 3.31" stroke steel crank with 2.25" mainss it's not even a challenge to turn that rpm. Make power at 8,000 and up with 3.910" bore and stock configuration heads. There's your challenge.

Keep the info coming! Thanks to all that have posted.

I will never understand why guys insist on reving the piss out of these engines. Why spend all the needed money on upgrades to shift that high especially when you only want to run 10.50's. My Sons 360 goes faster than that at 3200 pounds shifting at 6400 rpm and will go VERY low 10's this year with a 408 shifting at 6800 rpm.

That's one of the reasons I'm asking all the questions...if it doesn't need to rev that high.....great! Even better! If a 318 can go 10.70's and not rev high..let me know all about it.

Its so easy with a 50 dollar 360 bone-yard core. Not saying a 318 won't do it because it will but take advantage of the extra cubes.

360 bored .030 over
ported Edelbrock heads
520 Racer Brown solid lift cam
Diamond Pistons (or piston of your choice)
750 holly
ported victor intake
11.2.1 comp (pump gas)
prepped stock 360 crank
K1 rods (or rod of your choice)
4.10 gears
727 with 5400-5500 stall converter.
headmen 1 7/8 headers

Pretty basic SIMPLE combo.

Why is the pro stocks were turning 12K to make
the power... now they turn 10.5K and they are
down on power... simple.. every time the piston
hits its making power.. we tend to measure in RPM
(thats per minute)... more pulses = more power..
just have to build it for the rpm.. if that 360 made
X amount of power and it had the right parts to rev
higher it would make more power
EDIT
the smaller the CI you have to turn it higher to
make the power... if you go out there with a 318
and turn 7500 the next guy will be turning 8500 and
be quicker every time if its built for the revs

Why not put a 4" arm in your 318 if your stuck on using a "318"? Give you a 392 if I remember correctly. You'd likely be buying an aftermarket crank anyway

I thought about that,but if I would go that route...then it's time for a 360...and I have several 318's here in my shop.

I know this is feasable..I've seen NHRA GT cars use a 318...so it can be done,but I dont think I need a super stock engine build to do what I would like to do.

Why would anyone want to build a SB to turn 8000 and only run 10.70 ?

Listen to this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kswkSEyOj8

or

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZ7rAqjXr_8

If it is a race only car there is nothing cooler sounding than these kind of builds. Of course if you plan to drive it on the street it will get old fast.

Oh and for the record a stroker does make much more sense from an easy point of view or a budget point of view and they are more fun on the street. They just don't sound as awesome.

Will you actually be class racing this... a 4"
stroke would be easier.. still use your 318 block..
that would give you more torque

Too bad so many of these posts are trying to talk this guy ( "318 racer"!!!!! )in to something other than what he wants to do - and pretty much irrelevant to what he really wants to do. Not that I don't agree with some of the comments, but . . . . . . He doesn't want to race a 340, 360, 390, 408, 416, or a 426! His handle is 318 racer!!!!!!! READ THE OP!!

I read all of it... and I gave my suggestion for it.. but ALSO
added another... its he choice what he wants to do... but I
also asked if he is gonna class race this which has rules

Just trying to help. Sorry I won't make that mistake again and ruffle YOUR feathers.

See what I meant about the thick skin!

All,

I REALLY appreciate all of the info so far.I hope there will be more info. I didnt post anywhere else,Moparts seems to have a lot of good knowledge.


If this engine works out,and does what it needs to do,then I may consider running it in class. No way could I be a record holder,but if somewhat competitive.But that thought is way way way way down the road.I'd have to upgrade my car too,and to be honest,I like bracket racing. I like combos that everyone says cant be done.

I used to race 440 Chryslers...great engines,but everyone turns their noses up at the ol' 318. I really think it can be a good engine. If it doesnt need to go high RPM,I'm good with that. I always heard you had to rev a small block.440's obviously,you dont. I just would like you guys to tell me what the best stuff is to use. I just had 2 restrictions,the heads and the carburetor.And I'd like to go 10.70's.Even the old Direct Connection "bible" has a 10 second 318 combo,but I think it's a stretch there.

no problem if he doesn't mind spending a small fortune to reach his goal. pretty stupid if it's not a class racer.