I am building low deck 470 for hot street strip use with 11/1 compression, and trick flow heads, 2800 stall, 4.10 gear and i am shooting for mid 600's for h.p. I am stuck on the camshaft I should use.
I will race the car, as well as drive it to various car shows around the state so i would like some drivability. i have looked at a number of cam profiles, and I am stuck on which way to go. I was looking at a hughes roller grind, ser4246bl3-10. then, looking at the solid flat tappet cams, i found stl4246bs, which when looking at the profiles, are the same cam, but are they? I am looking at a lot more cost for the roller setup,and is it worth it?
should i just go with the solid and be done?

both are 242/246 @ .050, around .600 lift, wit 110 centerline.

Jimbo for what you're wanting I'd look at a hydraulc roller.

I would contact Chase Knight from Crane Cams, he can help you and he is a Mopar guy. Tim

The cam looks a bit short on duration for 600+ HP?
Lunati Voodoo solid roller 40230733LK would still be mild in that engine.
Specs are 249/255@0.050" and 0.585"/0.600" lift (@1.5:1 ratio.)
https://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=5954&gid=369
Cost for cam and lifters, $685.20 ($666.81 on Amazon?)
A good 9.5" or 10" 3,500 stall converter should work fine with your 4.10:1 gears.

Jerry Clay from Crane said that Chase retired a few weeks ago.

I had built a few engines and used everything from hydraulic to solid with solid being my preference. On my last motor, I went solid because it was cheap, easy and what I knew. Even after doing all the right things, using the right oil, blah,blah, the damn thing went flat!

It was the most expensive motor I had ever built as the only thing left that was stock was the block. I took it apart, cleaned it out and went with a Howards hydraulic roller. Lots of work, lots of expense but worth every penny! Little things like swapping the gear on the intermediate shaft, going to a bronze tipped fuel pump rod and ordering new, custom length pushrods really pushes up the price!

The engine is very manageable on the street, makes more power than a new Viper and is a true joy to drive.

With your goals, the engine will have to spin over 6,000 RPM I think. It will be marginal for any type of hydraulic. I would suggest the mechanical FT. As insurance, get the cam nitrided and use EDM oiling lifters... still much cheaper vs roller and it can take the RPM.

Thanks for the info everyone!

which when looking at the profiles, are the same cam, but are they?
Never.

Only reason not to use a roller: $$$.

That`s a baby cam and had a way bigger one in my 11 second stock stroke 360 daily driver. Those cubes and heads could easily use more duration and be totally streetable and FUN.............

Hughes Cam with EDM lifters = $396.20
so the roller adds $289 to the cost of the engine.
The trick flow option 2 head with the 1.560" springs should work with the roller cam.

I'm using my old 451 as a comparison, it was 11:1 compression with a 251/251 @ 0.050" solid roller 0.613" lift and shift points were about 6,100-6,200 RPM. I chassis dynoed it to 7,000 RPM.

The engine was pretty easy on the street. Drove it to PMI in Pueblo and back with no problems (only got maybe 10-mpg max?)

I went with a mild comp hydraulic roller in my 470. (.541 lift) Great street manners, huge torque and sounds great. I will never go with anything but roller from here on. Costs more to begin with. But being able to just fire up and drive with no break in is priceless. By the way. The only hydraulic roller lifters I had any luck with were the Hughes ones. I had all kinds of issues with the high $$$ Scorpion lifters. Just my experience. Good luck.

Knowing most of Colorado is above 4500 ft and your cubic inch I would look at more duration and as much lift as I could get
My last pump gas 3.91 stroke 440 motor with non ported Eddy RPM heads struggle to make 500 HP with a Comp Cams XE275HL, .525 lift and 231 @.050 int. and 237@.050 on the exhaust at 2500 Ft All the other pump gas motors I've made and dyno tested like a lot more duration and lift I have a 464 C.I. 440 motor that had the same heads on it as the last motor but it had the Comp Cams XE295HL with 1.6 ratio rockers and a six pak,it ran low elevens and high tens in my old pump gas Duster that weighed 3450 lbs with me in it
To make over 600 HP I would look at a solid roller with around 255 to 265 degrees at .050 on both lobes and .430 or more lobe lift and use a set of 1.6 or higher rocker ratio
The first pump gas low deck stroker motor I made back in 2002 was a 400 block bored to 4.375 with a 4.25 stroke cranshaft with BB Chevy rod sizes, it had a set of mildly ported 906 heads with 2.14 intake valves and 1.81 exhaust valves, 9.25 to 1 comp ratio. Eddy low deck sixpak intake and tuned up stock 440 carbs, that cam was a custom ground Comp Cams that had 260 @ .050 intake with .420 lobe lift, 266 @.050 on the exhaust with .409 lobe lift, I used a set of 1.6 CAT brand aluminum roller rockers that I had to replace with a set of Harland Sharp later when the CAT shafts failed That motor made 612 HP at 5500 RPM and 644 ft. lbs. at 4500 RPM on CA 91 octane pump swill It really exceeded my expectations Good luck on your build

Where did u get your numbers??

Hyd roller cam listed is 399, lifters are 553.

Looks to me like at least 550 more for a roller. Plus pushrods for the roller may be a few $$ more.

To the OP, nobody has mentioned it...but imo you need more flash speed from a vert. More like 3500.

How heavy is the car?

Finally...call Dwayne Porter and be done with it...

Thanks again for all the great input!
The car weighs 3650 pounds, as far as the converter goes, It flashes to 2800 now with a mild 383, so I'm guessing it will be a tad higher with the new motor. I was also looking at running a 1.6 rocker setup. I have the base trick flows with the .650 max lift springs, and I was guessing a redline anywhere from 6,000 to 6,500 rpm.
As far as cost, I'm not worried if I have to fork out the extra cash for a roller setup. I just want to make a good choice for my build goals. it looks like a solid roller is in my future.
And Von, who is Dwayne Porter? someone at Hughes?

Had 800 miles on my Six Pack, 512 inch Comp Cam/Scorpion roller equipped motor when number 6 exhaust collapsed.. Called Scorpion. They told me to mail the pair of lifters and they would get back me if they would warranty or not. Likely be down for at least a week or so. You would of thought that for the several hours of labor I spent replacing their bum lifter they would have just sent a replacement instead of the dance they gave.

Called Summit, next day I had new pair of lifters. Also included was a label to send failed lifter back to them. Love those guys along with Nordstrums and Costco.

Been waiting for another shoe to drop with another failure. 2K miles later, to date no further failures.

Performance with roller and Eddy heads, Passon OD 4 speed and 4:10 gear feels as good as it gets for a street car.

Incidentally burned the ceramic coating off TTI headers breaking in prior flat tappet cam. Recoated them at teardown/upgrade at a cost of 350 bucks. 350 bucks goes a long way toward paying roller upgrade fee and not to be concerned of burning up another ceramic coating.

If you expect to make that much power you are going to need a roller in the 300 at 50 range. My 493 with ported Edelbrock's made 653 at right around 6,500 with a Comp roller #316-R8 at 12.9 compression on 112 race gas and a flowed 1150 dominator.

Dwayne Porter, Porter Racing Heads 802-951-1955.

As far as the horsepower numbers i'm looking for, its corrected horsepower, not what I want actual at my altitude. I have a altitude correction kit for that.. nos

HP takes air and fuel, adding more air and more fuel equals more HP I switched heads on the same short block three different times,two sets had the same size combustion chambers making the compression ratio the same. The bigger flowing heads made more power every time
You can make the motor flow more air through the cam, heads and intake by optimizing all of them, you can also make the motor make more HP by making it bigger by stroking and boring it with the same top end and cam. I did a lot of carb. testing on one of my old drag cars with a stock stroke 440 motor in it, going from a 600 CFM carb.,to 750CFM,850CFM,950CFM and ending up with a 1050 CFM Dominator carb. made the car eight tenths quicker ET and similar MPH gain IHTHs