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Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: ahy] #2011488
02/14/16 12:30 AM
02/14/16 12:30 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,652
Lima, Peru
domingo Offline
EL Master
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Lima, Peru
Originally Posted By ahy
You are good... it is not easy to get lead to stick to steel and be somewhat level.

My choice on beat up metal or welds is neither. I use a first fill of epoxy. JB weld or PC7. It sticks very well to steel... much better than bondo and is waterproof. I use bondo for final smoothing.


jb weld is not flexible it can crack or pop out if used on the body of a car that has a lot of flex. not the best choice for bodywork for sure.

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2011493
02/14/16 12:38 AM
02/14/16 12:38 AM
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Posts: 1,416
USA
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hudsonhornet7x Offline
pro stock
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USA
I am not against filler or lead, but I prefer to cut out where the panels meet and fabricate a sheet metal filler, then but weld the panels so there is no seam at all. Then metal finish.

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2011513
02/14/16 12:59 AM
02/14/16 12:59 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632
jersey shore
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flypaper Offline
I hate Texas
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jersey shore
yolo smoke

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: kentj340] #2011526
02/14/16 01:12 AM
02/14/16 01:12 AM
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Posts: 18,632
jersey shore
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flypaper Offline
I hate Texas
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jersey shore
Originally Posted By kentj340
Here's some discussion I found on the WWW. BTW, it's called lead, but it's actually solder.


Question
Would you elaborate about preparation regarding lead body repairs?
Any good books on the subject that you would recommend?



Answer
Preparation is pretty straight forward. All galvanized coatings must be completely ground off, all paint must be removed, all rust completely sand blasted out. Lead actually likes sand blasted steel. I highly suggest having some heat sinking putty around the spot. Play-Doh will work, but dries out quickly.

First, you need to tin the area with acid core solder. Go beyond the area you intend to lead. Then, you apply lead. You work and smooth lead with heat and wooden lead paddles. The paddles are occasionally dipped in beeswax to keep lead from sticking, and to cool the paddles. The wax comes in a little tub, it's hard like a candle. It must be melted with the torch, but just enough to sorta dip the paddle in.

Lead is a joy to work with. Unlike Bondo, it can be reworked once it's hard. Just heat it up and paddle it out. I like to work it with a body file, it cuts fast, and body files were made for working lead. You can also sand it conventionally with sandpaper, and should final sand with some 180 on a DA if you do all the work with a metal file.

Once you are done, the area must be wet sanded with 320 wet or dry paper to remove any acid from the tinning process. Hope this makes things a little clearer for you. I don't know of any good books on the subject, sorry. I was taught by an old pro, and he was taught by his uncles.


one tip i can pass on is
before you apply the flux or tin the area,
use bronze wool, not steel wool to clean up the area you are working on.
you can find it at a marine supply place
the reason is
steel wool will leave small particles into the metal that will cause rust under and around the lead
even after it is epoxy primed.
the more you play with lead the easier it gets.

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: flypaper] #2011600
02/14/16 04:25 AM
02/14/16 04:25 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,705
MYRTLE BEACH SOUTH CAROLINA
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ek3 Offline
top fuel
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MYRTLE BEACH SOUTH CAROLINA
I did it this way.... very little bondo will be left here...

top weld strips.JPGsolid seams.JPGtop welds.JPG
Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2012025
02/14/16 10:06 PM
02/14/16 10:06 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,855
Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda Offline
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Highland, MI.
Isn't there an aluminum filler called All-Metal? Anybody use this?


No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: Sunroofcuda] #2012072
02/14/16 10:42 PM
02/14/16 10:42 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 17,765
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
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Mass
Originally Posted By Sunroofcuda
Isn't there an aluminum filler called All-Metal? Anybody use this?




Over rated/priced bondo, has it's uses, just not were joints are best leaded

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2012116
02/14/16 11:25 PM
02/14/16 11:25 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,855
Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda Offline
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Highland, MI.
Well, the thing I don't like about bondo or other plastic body fillers, is that it is porous, & there is solvent pop after time. I've seen it on SO many filler jobs that had been applied years before. I've never used the metal fillers, but might try the stuff next time I need filler.


No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2012136
02/15/16 12:04 AM
02/15/16 12:04 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632
jersey shore
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flypaper Offline
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jersey shore
i have yet to see a filler that doesn't shrink or become porous
like you mention over time.
when they invent one, i might consider using it for that application.

that said,
for a vinyl roof car, i would use it on the roof
a painted roof car.. no way jose!

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2012215
02/15/16 02:26 AM
02/15/16 02:26 AM
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Posts: 5,641
fredericksburg,va
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cudaman1969 Offline
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fredericksburg,va
I melted the lead and removed my roof off of my 64 Savoy sedan about four months ago and found no rust or any problem with the joint. Pretty good for 52 years. Lead is going back on those seams, and I'll reuse the same lead (got a few cars I can get more from)

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: cudaman1969] #2012314
02/15/16 11:09 AM
02/15/16 11:09 AM
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 14,882
north of coder
moparx Offline
"Butt Crack Bob"
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north of coder
anyone ever use 50/50 lead solder for this type of repair ?
beer

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: moparx] #2012358
02/15/16 12:46 PM
02/15/16 12:46 PM
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 17,765
Mass
DAYCLONA Offline
I Live Here
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Mass
Originally Posted By moparx
anyone ever use 50/50 lead solder for this type of repair ?
beer




Standard autobody lead is 60/40, Tin/lead, with 50/50 the tin content is lower which will make it "pastey" to work with properly, the higher Tin content is to help promote adhesion and flow, the "lead free" solder "kits" on the market are mostly Tin, which is more expensive and also has a higher eutectic (melting) point of 450 degrees vs 360 degrees for 60/40

Re: Lead vs Bondo [Re: MadMopars] #2012375
02/15/16 01:11 PM
02/15/16 01:11 PM
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Posts: 1,278
Buzzardbreath Wyoming
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BigBird Offline
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Buzzardbreath Wyoming
Learned lead work from a old timer that only metal finished or leaded. He was the best body man I ever met. He could straighten anything but never worked on anything newer than the 50's. Bondo is easier but lead is more traditional and should last longer. Last newer car I tried lead on was a 79 Capri. Touched it with a torch and if warped all over. I've used 60/40 70/30 both. Could tell much difference between the two.



Last edited by BigBird; 02/15/16 01:15 PM.
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