Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: ahy]
#2011488
02/14/16 12:30 AM
02/14/16 12:30 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,670 Lima, Peru
domingo
EL Master
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EL Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,670
Lima, Peru
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You are good... it is not easy to get lead to stick to steel and be somewhat level.
My choice on beat up metal or welds is neither. I use a first fill of epoxy. JB weld or PC7. It sticks very well to steel... much better than bondo and is waterproof. I use bondo for final smoothing. jb weld is not flexible it can crack or pop out if used on the body of a car that has a lot of flex. not the best choice for bodywork for sure.
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Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: kentj340]
#2011526
02/14/16 01:12 AM
02/14/16 01:12 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632 jersey shore
flypaper
I hate Texas
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I hate Texas
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 18,632
jersey shore
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Here's some discussion I found on the WWW. BTW, it's called lead, but it's actually solder.
Question Would you elaborate about preparation regarding lead body repairs? Any good books on the subject that you would recommend?
Answer Preparation is pretty straight forward. All galvanized coatings must be completely ground off, all paint must be removed, all rust completely sand blasted out. Lead actually likes sand blasted steel. I highly suggest having some heat sinking putty around the spot. Play-Doh will work, but dries out quickly.
First, you need to tin the area with acid core solder. Go beyond the area you intend to lead. Then, you apply lead. You work and smooth lead with heat and wooden lead paddles. The paddles are occasionally dipped in beeswax to keep lead from sticking, and to cool the paddles. The wax comes in a little tub, it's hard like a candle. It must be melted with the torch, but just enough to sorta dip the paddle in.
Lead is a joy to work with. Unlike Bondo, it can be reworked once it's hard. Just heat it up and paddle it out. I like to work it with a body file, it cuts fast, and body files were made for working lead. You can also sand it conventionally with sandpaper, and should final sand with some 180 on a DA if you do all the work with a metal file.
Once you are done, the area must be wet sanded with 320 wet or dry paper to remove any acid from the tinning process. Hope this makes things a little clearer for you. I don't know of any good books on the subject, sorry. I was taught by an old pro, and he was taught by his uncles. one tip i can pass on is before you apply the flux or tin the area, use bronze wool, not steel wool to clean up the area you are working on. you can find it at a marine supply place the reason is steel wool will leave small particles into the metal that will cause rust under and around the lead even after it is epoxy primed. the more you play with lead the easier it gets.
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Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: MadMopars]
#2012025
02/14/16 10:06 PM
02/14/16 10:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,393 Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,393
Highland, MI.
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Isn't there an aluminum filler called All-Metal? Anybody use this?
No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
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Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: Sunroofcuda]
#2012072
02/14/16 10:42 PM
02/14/16 10:42 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157 Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Isn't there an aluminum filler called All-Metal? Anybody use this? Over rated/priced bondo, has it's uses, just not were joints are best leaded
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Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: MadMopars]
#2012116
02/14/16 11:25 PM
02/14/16 11:25 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,393 Highland, MI.
Sunroofcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,393
Highland, MI.
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Well, the thing I don't like about bondo or other plastic body fillers, is that it is porous, & there is solvent pop after time. I've seen it on SO many filler jobs that had been applied years before. I've never used the metal fillers, but might try the stuff next time I need filler.
No Man With A Good Car Needs To Be Justified
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Re: Lead vs Bondo
[Re: MadMopars]
#2012375
02/15/16 01:11 PM
02/15/16 01:11 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,279 Buzzardbreath Wyoming
BigBird
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,279
Buzzardbreath Wyoming
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Learned lead work from a old timer that only metal finished or leaded. He was the best body man I ever met. He could straighten anything but never worked on anything newer than the 50's. Bondo is easier but lead is more traditional and should last longer. Last newer car I tried lead on was a 79 Capri. Touched it with a torch and if warped all over. I've used 60/40 70/30 both. Could tell much difference between the two.
Last edited by BigBird; 02/15/16 01:15 PM.
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