Time to replace my slicks and I am looking for opinions between MT and Hoosier.

My slicks are old. Running the MT ones right now. Bought them during the build, and they sat for years before I ever went racing with them. I believe they are 8 or 9 years old.

Nostalgia Super Stock Car running NSS-A, but will probably move to FX-C once I complete my license requirements. Running the 10.0 class I am usually busting the 135mph limit so it is time to get legal... Best 1/4 was 9.98, 1/8 was 6.32. Mostly run 1/8 with the SHRA series.

68' Barracuda FB..Stick Car at just under 3k lbs race weight with me in it. Launch 5400 or so. 12"w 15" wheels. 4 Link with double adjustables. It does pull the wheels, but people watching the car have told me it does spin. Can't really feel it in the car.

I have been running the MT 33x10.5W on a 12" rim with tubes and screws. They are old, but only have 52 passes on them. Best 60' was a 1.41 but average is 1.5-1.6.

Looking to stay with the 33x10.5wx15 size and Summit only shows 3 tires that fit that bill.

MT 3069W M5 compound
Hoosier 18332C11 C11 compound
Phoenix PH103 F9 compound

Not sure which way to go, but I am leaning towards either sticking with the MT, or trying the Hoosier.

Have any of you run both of these tires and can you give me a comparison? Most if the cars I have looked at are running the MT.

-Dave

First of all that sure is a light car

I have tried the 33x10.5 tire and it was too much for my car. I run NSS 10.0 class and have also run the AFX/C class and my car weighs 3450 with me in it. I found the best tire for me is the 29.5x10.5 MT. I also think that tire you are using is killing your 60ft and you also would be better off with a shorter tire. Even the 30x10.5W would be better.

I did try the Hoosier 30x10.5 radial and it was not bad but the radial did not last long at all in that size for me.

In that tire size M/T all the way. They are the top of the heap in the "small tire" stuff for sure. My question is do you need that much tire?

Whats your RPM at the traps(1/4) and what gear
do you run

I have run my N/SS car on both M/T 10.5x29.5 and 10.5Wx31. My car runs A/FX with ladder bars. Its been 1.29 on the small ones, 1.25 on the big ones. Always run well over 100 passes per pair. I see no need for 10.5x33.
Doug

Yes the car is light, especially without me in it LOL. I am fluffy...
Front to rear bias last time I weighed it was 54.57%F 45.43% Rear.

Will try to answer the questions.

Running a 4:86 gear in the 9"
Jerico with 1st-2.93 2nd-1.84 3rd-1.33
Boninfante clutch.
AFCO Double adjustables.

Do not know my rpm at the top end of the 1/4 because last season I only made 2ea 1/4 mile passes. In the 1/8 I generally go through the traps just after I shift into 4th with the rpm at ~6300 at about 110mph. Normal shift point is 7400-7600

Generally run 10.5-11psi in the Mickeys.

-Dave

Do you have Afco doubles all the way around? I would bet with that much starting line ratio they need to be almost full stiff. If you video I'll bet it spins after the hit.
Doug

AFCO doubles only in the back. Fronts are the cheap Competition Engineering 3 ways..

-Dave

The CE's definitely should be set at full tight. Got any video?
Doug

Not sure if this will work. This is a FB link. I am the last one on this video. Probably the last 30 seconds. Watch it in HD if you can. Keep in mind my sister along with a couple of her friends were videoing this and they already had a few beers in them....

SHRA TT at Thunder Road Raceway 10/11/2015

-Dave

Nice looking and sounding car. I am following along with you on this one as I just got my car together and will be hitting the track soon with it, and I am trying to figure out what tire to use. Mine is a 69 Cuda fastback.

I ran Phoenix for 10yrs on my low 10sec 4 speed 68' Cuda. Last year I switched to M/T's stiff sidewall stick tire and I've been very happy with it. The car is .01-02 better in the 60ft but what I like best is they remain consistent.

I run quite a few UMTR stick races each year and probably 90% of guys run M/T. I'd say then followed by Phoenix and Good Year. You'll want to avoid a radial. Good luck. Nice car btw.

Hard to see whats happening from the far lane but this is what I see. The front end comes up and tops out too quick for my liking (loose front rebound on the shocks). The either it spins or bogs and then drops the front end like a like a rock. When this happens the rear tires unload and spin. There's plenty left in that combo. What is your starting line rpm? Sounds low. Close video taken from the side is your friend. Start first with just the rear tire, then go on to the entire car once you see what the rear is doing. Even though the rear and front are not separate adjustments they work together to provide the optimal set-up. Cell phones can take pretty decent video, or better yet Go-Pro. The starting line to 20-30 feet out is what you need to see. I had mine so far off last year my 60ft at one time was 1.45. I couldn't get the car past 330 safely. All in learning the adjustments. In this pic the car will rollout 6-7 feet before the front tires come off the ground and set down just before the 60 ft clocks.
Doug

Wow, I wouldn't have thought with that rear gear and low trans gear with the RPM's you are launching at you would get a bog of the line.

DVW,

This picture was taken on the same pass in the video. That pass I launched at 5400rpm. Went 1.418 60', 4.097 330ft, at a 6.32 1/8 110.06mph. Rear shocks were at 18comp, 20 rebound.

I was fighting a bog at that race due to an intake leak causing a lean launch. We jetted up just before that pass and it went its quickest 1/8th so far.

-Dave

Another Launch from a different track.

-Dave

I would agree with most all of what Doug said. Video is your friend when working on this stuff. Focus on rear tire from a 3/4 view. Get some new front shocks as well to control front rise better. Comes up fast for sure and car was not happy once it did

It sure looks like your unloading the tire, take a look at the picture of your car and the one above yours, look at how much more load is on his tire than yours.

I thought that I might be hitting the bars too hard and unloading.... for some reason I didn't write down my wheelie bar info at that race.

Just went to the garage and checked. The lower bar is 58.5" long and bottom of wheelie bar wheel is 7" as it sits right now in the garage. I believe that they were set at ~6" when that video was taken.

I know I need better front shocks, but if I go with a shorter tire, I need to changed my tubes as well. Looks like this winters upgrades are going to get expensive.

Unfortunately most of the races I went to last year I didn't have anyone that could video my car for me. I do it all the time for friends, but most of the video's they have taken for me captured everything but what I needed LOL.

-Dave

Are those screens on your carbs or those Edelbrock air filters.......hard to tell........