Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: 69 lawndart]
#1918802
09/24/15 02:54 PM
09/24/15 02:54 PM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540 Milwaukee WI
TRENDZ
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,540
Milwaukee WI
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I'm a bit concerned about what looks to be a casting flaw in that threaded hole in the pass side valley wall...
"use it 'till it breaks, replace as needed"
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: TRENDZ]
#1918809
09/24/15 02:58 PM
09/24/15 02:58 PM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103 Kansas, Topeka
69 lawndart
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
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I'm a bit concerned about what looks to be a casting flaw in that threaded hole in the pass side valley wall... Yes sir there was a problem with the pipe threads on the inside lifter wall, we just drilled them out and tapped them to 1/2 NPT. the original size was 3/8NPT.
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: 69 lawndart]
#1919271
09/25/15 02:52 AM
09/25/15 02:52 AM
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454 Glendora Ca.
Just-a-dart
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 1,454
Glendora Ca.
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Having seen both of Whitedart's iron blocks machine work as delivered I have to say CHECK EVERY surface, bolt hole, treaded plug, etc.
Alot of things were not drilled/tapped streight, machined parallel or to size. Brad at QMP saved his block, most shops would have scrapped it.
Yours looks like a cool build, and I hope it all plays well for you.
"Just a Bracket car dressed up like a streetcar"
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: 69 lawndart]
#1919367
09/25/15 12:00 PM
09/25/15 12:00 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696 Bitopia
jcc
If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
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If you can't dazzle em with diamonds..
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 22,696
Bitopia
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"I have a set of W9's on my other R3 block (468 cid) with 59 deg lifter angle. That set of heads is a set of Chapman done heads and they are to small for that motor it gives up at 6800 but it pulls hard in the mid range. This one is going to get the W9RP that Curtis Boggs from RFD did." Curious, what kinda flow numbers does a Chapman W9RP have to choke off a 468ci at 6800?
Reality check, that half the population is smarter then 50% of the people and it's a constantly contested fact.
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: Just-a-dart]
#1919384
09/25/15 12:32 PM
09/25/15 12:32 PM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103 Kansas, Topeka
69 lawndart
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
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Having seen both of Whitedart's iron blocks machine work as delivered I have to say CHECK EVERY surface, bolt hole, treaded plug, etc.
Alot of things were not drilled/tapped streight, machined parallel or to size. Brad at QMP saved his block, most shops would have scrapped it.
Yours looks like a cool build, and I hope it all plays well for you. Thanks for the information. I have assembled all of the heads, head studs and valve train the only thing I have not put on the motor yet is the clutch and bellhousing that will need to be indexed in, that is a standard thing I do on all of my motors, and the timing cover and water pump. Thanks for all of the input on this build. Mike
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: 69 lawndart]
#1919411
09/25/15 01:05 PM
09/25/15 01:05 PM
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036 bean town ....Ca
WHITEDART
master
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master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,036
bean town ....Ca
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I'm more than happy to share any information that I have gained. I will say that these motors have a tendency to have oil drain back issues crankcase pressure going up kind of prevent oil from going down. I also drill through the china wall into the timing case area to help vent the crankcase I also enlarge the oil drain backs in the front and and back . And drilled for 1/8 holes cam tunnel
In the 8s N/A.with Brett miller W8's 5.07 at 133 at 2700lb
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#1919419
09/25/15 01:20 PM
09/25/15 01:20 PM
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972 Romeo MI
MR_P_BODY
Master
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Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 52,972
Romeo MI
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I'm more than happy to share any information that I have gained. I will say that these motors have a tendency to have oil drain back issues crankcase pressure going up kind of prevent oil from going down. I also drill through the china wall into the timing case area to help vent the crankcase I also enlarge the oil drain backs in the front and and back . And drilled for 1/8 holes cam tunnel Are these blocks setup for a dry sump? sounds like a dry sump would be a better way to go with the drain back and pressure issues
Last edited by MR_P_BODY; 09/25/15 01:21 PM.
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: WHITEDART]
#1919471
09/25/15 02:10 PM
09/25/15 02:10 PM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103 Kansas, Topeka
69 lawndart
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
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I'm more than happy to share any information that I have gained. I will say that these motors have a tendency to have oil drain back issues crankcase pressure going up kind of prevent oil from going down. I also drill through the china wall into the timing case area to help vent the crankcase I also enlarge the oil drain backs in the front and and back . And drilled for 1/8 holes cam tunnel Yes I agree that is why I drilled and tapped 4 of 1/2 NPT holes in the cam valley right next to the cam bearing main. To try and get the oil drain back to the crankcase. I also plan on putting my vacuum pump on the fuel pump plate in the timing cover. My logic is to make the crankcase lower pressure than the top end and kinda pull the oil and vapor through the holes and drain backs. Thanks for the input.
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: MR_P_BODY]
#1919472
09/25/15 02:12 PM
09/25/15 02:12 PM
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103 Kansas, Topeka
69 lawndart
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 103
Kansas, Topeka
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I'm more than happy to share any information that I have gained. I will say that these motors have a tendency to have oil drain back issues crankcase pressure going up kind of prevent oil from going down. I also drill through the china wall into the timing case area to help vent the crankcase I also enlarge the oil drain backs in the front and and back . And drilled for 1/8 holes cam tunnel Are these blocks setup for a dry sump? sounds like a dry sump would be a better way to go with the drain back and pressure issues I think you are correct on this one, but since this is a street/race car in a stock chassis I don't have the room for a dry sump.
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Re: 420cid build with a new Ritter Aluminum Block
[Re: 69 lawndart]
#1919862
09/26/15 12:41 AM
09/26/15 12:41 AM
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,514 Tulsa, Oklahoma
340Cuda
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,514
Tulsa, Oklahoma
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At this point in time that is the plan, I saw you and was wanting to get over and talk to you and see what you have updated on the car. I hope to have this thing back in the car by the end of the year. That gives me all of next year to sort it out. I have talked to some of the guys that have had problems with these blocks and so far most of the major problems were fixed when I got the block. There have been a few small things but nothing major. Thanks Mike Mike, The car is Clark's (Bad340Fish above). I am his dad, road flunky and navigator. We did not hang around long at Cordova, we wanted to beat the rain out of town. This is going to be an epic thread, keep it going. Thanks, Bill
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