Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: 318Bruiser]
#1893122
08/16/15 07:19 PM
08/16/15 07:19 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857
ohio
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Do you have spark? Is the coil being commanded to fire? Are the injectors being commanded to fire? Before changing partrs and adding more questions than answers we need some actual testing.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: moretoys]
#1894797
08/18/15 09:29 PM
08/18/15 09:29 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,826 las vegas
70AARcuda
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,826
las vegas
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broken/ corroded wire in the harness. you need to check the powers at the relay. there is a wire that branchs off and goes to a few different components, that connection gets corroded and you loose power to a few different relays and computer. you need to do power and ground checks before throwing more parts at it. relay should have 1 power wire all time and 1 with key on. the computer controls the ground. It has been a while, If I remember correctly the branch is in the harness between the fire wall and battery along the left side inner fender. look for the green powder(corrosion).won't be easy to spot, it is inside the taped harness. Getting an aftermarket Bad part is not that uncommon. a scan tool that is bidirectional can command the coil to fire/spark. if that happens then the wiring is good, Just fixed that problem on a 95 Dakota...changed pick up coil..coil..crank sensor...kept dying and not wanting to restart..found a youtube video...showed were the wires were...and this dakota has been in the desert all its life and still corrode...runs great again..
Tony
70 AARCuda Vitamin C 71 Dart Swinger 360 10.318 @ 128.22(10-04-14 Bakersfield) 71 Demon 360 10.666 @122.41 (01-29-17 @ Las Vegas) 71 Duster 408 (10.29 @ 127.86 3/16/19 Las Vegas)
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Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: SALEM1912]
#1896406
08/21/15 10:06 AM
08/21/15 10:06 AM
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345 Marysville, O-H-I-O
70Cuda383
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,345
Marysville, O-H-I-O
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5 volts is normal. all the sensors operate between 0-5 volts. The crank position trigger uses a 5v or 0v signal- as the windows on the flexplate/flywheel pass under the sensor, the voltage goes from 5 to 0 telling the computer that a piston is at TDC. others, like the MAP, TPS, etc. use a varying voltage to articulate a range of values.
.13 ohms in a wire sounds normal. copper wire has resistance and will show some value of resistance on an Ohm test.
Last edited by 70Cuda383; 08/21/15 10:07 AM.
**Photobucket sucks**
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Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: 318Bruiser]
#1897776
08/23/15 05:22 PM
08/23/15 05:22 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857
ohio
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OK calm down. The code indicates a problem with the asd relay or its wiring. Since the relay has been changed with no effect, its safe to say it's wiring related. Fortunately the wiring isn't all that complicated.
IIRC theres 4 wires on that relay: 1 Battery power, should be hot at all times 2 Key on power, hot when key on 3 Feed to items that are fed from the relay, things like the fuel pump relay, power for ecm etc. 4 Control for relay, this will be a ground when the ecm is commanding the realy to operate. Should be ground when cranking and for a couple seconds after. If the ecm doesn't see a crank/rpm siginal it will command the relay off (no ground)
A basic test ;light can test these circuits. Obviously 1 terminal in the socket should have power all the time, The 2nd should have power with the key on. Test for these by clipping the test light to battery negative and probing the terminals to see which lights up. Make a sketch and mark em for future reference.
The control circuit is tested by cliping the test light to battery positive, probing the other 2 terminals. One should only light the test light when cranking and like stated will light the test light for a coupe seconds after key release. Add this to your sketch.
The feed wire should theoretically show a ground with the test light connected the same as checking the control circuit. This should be a constant ground.
Check these and report back with what is not working as expected. Then we can narrow down which circuit is out of order.
Angry white pureblood male
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Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: ruderunner]
#1897817
08/23/15 06:28 PM
08/23/15 06:28 PM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 396 Iowa
318Bruiser
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 396
Iowa
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These are the results of the test:
1. No constant power (no power at all) pin 30 2. No power when key on (no power at all) pin 87 3. Connection to positive on battery then to pin 85 and I get constant light. Ground is good. 4. Connection to positive on battery then to pin 86 and I get light for about 2 seconds after key release.
30 Common feed 85 Coil ground 86 coil battery 87 normal open 87a normal closed
When I checked #3 my cruise control clicked for about 2 seconds and I heard a faint hum for 2 seconds but I could not figure out where the hum came from.
Last edited by 318Bruiser; 08/23/15 06:32 PM. Reason: Forgot to add
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Re: 98 Ram no start
[Re: 318Bruiser]
#1897864
08/23/15 08:06 PM
08/23/15 08:06 PM
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857 ohio
ruderunner
master
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master
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 5,857
ohio
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By putting the light into #3 you were effectively providing power to the components that run off the asd relay. The noises are a good sign that that part of the wiring is indeed connected.
The lack of power to either hot terminal at the relay starts to point towards a failed fuse link. These go between the battery and fuse block. Normal test for a fuse link is to pull on it, if it stretches, its burnt.
Follow the positive cable to a point where 5 or 6 wires are spliced to it. Those will likely be the fuse links. Start at the battery. You may have more than 9ne bad link, I don't know if the same one provides power to the asd and ignition switch.
Angry white pureblood male
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