Original 6 cyl. We have a V8 in it now.

He insists on going for the G-ride. I am leaning for the look to save expense. But, why not just do it right to start. Triangular 4-link rear aftermarket fronts.

Those of you who have cars, projects, experience with this.... What would you do if you were starting fresh?

I'm a drag racer and do most of my own work. Welding, making, & cutting is something we are not scared of. We can make most of the stuff sold or buy if the manufacturer got it right.

So post your experiences and suggestions.

Search this forum, look at the 67 Valiant build. The answers are already there.

Still have not seen any advantage to ditching the factory setup in competition, especially on an A body. Upgrading the stock stuff with an aggressive alignment goes a long ways in the G machine Mopar world. In the rear a torque arm 3 link would be my first choice with a floater 9".

I agree with both above, Clean slate, I would make your own 3 link for the rear, it's really not tough, and will out handle anything else on most tracks. Stock front with a Borgeson box, big front sway bar, 1.18 Torsion bars, aftermarket upper A arms. Subframe connectors. Shoot for 275+ tires front and rear. Have fun!

What is he going to use the car for? Auto X/ track or just a street car?
If you can build your own 3 link for the rear it would not cost any more than good springs leaf springs and shocks and most likely work just as well.
For the front I would take a hard look at that Hemi Denny front end and compare it to doing a stock rebuild with good parts and pick which one you think will work best for him.

I would be fine with 4 wheel disk and some big low profile rubber.

He wants to autocross the car. I overdo everything on my own car. So guess what....

Dr. Diff has the brakes,spindles,lines and axles. Firm Feel has the tbars,bushings,tierods,balljoints and upper control arms. They also offer a rear frame hung swaybar. Front swaybar there are a few to choose,Hotchkis,Firm Feel and Hellwig make good ones. Wheels you want at least 18x9, tires a 275/35/18 minimum in a bridgstone re71, Dunlop zII star spec, bfg rival or the like. Car can WIN autox with that setup. Borgeson steering box will make it feel like a new car.

Don't forget an aluminum engine and trans, Passon aluminum case 4 speed, etc

...Or you could just come to the one stop shop and buy the best system on the market. We have put so much time and energy into our system to make the best handling package on the market. It is a complete kit and improves the geometry on the factory suspension without having to compromise the integrity of the chassis and add the complexity of fully adjustable shocks and coilovers. We've proved for years at events around the country that when it comes to design, engineering and execution, we have the best handling kit on the market.

www.hotchkis.net

i would upgrade the wheels and tires and take it out as-is.

if he still likes the auto-x then start the upgrades.

dumping money into race car before racing i think is a waste.

thats the beauty of the auto-x events, run what you brung.

Yeah those frame connectors.......can't say anything nice say nothing, yes momma
The upper control arms, nice
The pitman and idle arm? Are they longer than oem? If so OK

Mostly your products are for guys with only wrenches. I can make a lot of the products you sell specifically for our car and promote my business as well as teach my kid tricks of the trade. Not knocking your products or the guys using them. But, something like frame connectors we can accomplish a stiffer frame a lot nicer than a bolt in part.

Thanks for sharing your products. May be looking at a few.

I completely agree with this statement.

I would start by stiffening the body, everything you can do/make yourself if your saving money: stitch weld the body, make your own subframe connectors, inner fender braces, torque boxes, lower rad braces, roll cage, and weld the all in (depending on what track your running look at their rule books for the allowed mods you can do to your car first).

weld up and gusset your kframe as well.

This is where I'd start first before you buy any aftermarket parts, this is so what you do end up buying can do their job efficiently.

Planning on a custom fab frame connector. Have seen the ones that are shaped to weld to floor. Fit was not that good. But, the guy installing wasn't that good either. Lol.

Planned to relocate rear leafs and minitub while replacing trunk and extension panels. But, if I did a four link moving the springs would be unnecessary. I looked at the three links mentioned. Looks like a lot of trouble making a center mount over the driveshaft. Thought about a wishbone upper mounting the single heim on top housing and the Why to the inner frame. Problem is with rear up in car the wishbone may interfere width center section. Just have to see how the rest progresses.

Not sure why anyone thinks a 4 link is a good choice for a handling street car. Not enough room under our vehicle for a properly designed on without floor mods.

You asked the experienced people, you were given links to a proven, WINNING build and yet you choose to ignore the answers to your own request.

When a rep of one the the BEST suppliers to handling MoPar makes suggestions you belittle him.

Seems you already have the answers you want, why did you come here?

You will not find an aftermarket replacement front suspension, ala AlterKation, Hemi Denny, QA1, that will out perform the stock based one in all areas. You might find one that is lighter, you might find one that is roomier, you might even find one than can handle on par with the stock based setup in the link you were provided. What you will not find is one that is stronger or better engineered.

Is the stock setup perfect? Nope, but the info is available to you to fix it's issues.

This x1000. While Leon is busy ignoring advice he asked for, I'll be busy kicking Camaro and Mustang [censored]....

http://www.cachassisworks.com/site_images/58XX/5857-XXX/5857-F21-02/5857-F21-02_5926-F21_rear_AT.jpg
Im definitely in the stock front t-bar front camp, but the rear needs help. Especially when you add some power AND a manual trans with sticky tires. My future plan will be a Strange S-60 F-body center housing, ^^^^^ Chassis works billet watts, torque arm that mounts to the F-body mounts and some coilovers. I have tore the weight off my aluminum driveshaft AGAIN even adding 2 half leafs to the Hotchkis A-body springs. Leafs cant handle a 335 tire period.

I think if you had any understanding of the English language you could clearly see I was not belittling Hotckis. I looked at their products. They are bolt in. Meaning they are meant for customers who cannot or do not want to fabricate. I have actually built cars. You turn corners I go straight, with a street car, and get more mph in 1320 ft than you do in your racing. When I speak with these manufacturers they soon understand the work I am capable of and only try to sell me what they think I need.

A drag race 4 link is not made for cornering. But, there are many 4-link designs, some which do not require floor mods.

I asked a simple question. Got some good answers including answers from a performance supplier I am a Wholesale Dealer for suggesting his products. A bolt in frame connector is never as strong as a weld in. If anyone should feel belittled it's the guy who can't fab his own parts and pays $300 for tie rods sold in the circle track market by the foot. If you do not have the machines to make a nice job, understand. But, don't dare accuse me of something simply because I can make some of my own parts.

Leon Hudson
Hudson Restorations

You end up spending more in trial and error than just bolting on the Hotchkis stuff.

But, if you want to fabricate....go ahead.