A question to moparts members that do front drag race suspension work on early b bodies ,stock controll arms etc.
Is it possible to get zero toe change on one of these cars when correcting bump steer?
I had to do new bushings in the front of the 64 hemi car, guess it was time after 50 years.while aligning the front end which has not been aligned for more than 20 years, I checked the toe change after caster camber was set, it had 1 1/4" inch of toe change, At static height it was 1/8"toe in at 2" lift it toe in to 1/2" and tires off the ground it was a full 1 1/4" in, well after About 4 hours of picking at it I got the car with zero toe in at static ride height , from 2" of lift to tires off the ground I have 1/8"toe in. Am I obsessing over the zero toe at static height? I feel as if I keep going it won't get any better than I have it now .

Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.

E body but the principles the same I'd guess.
We spent a whole weekend installing tubular UCA's and setting up the toe curves with a caster gauge, mirrors and stuff. We couldn't eliminate it completely (we have around 6 inches of upward travel). Can't remember what we ended up with toe amount wise but we did heat up the bottom steering link on the hub and bend it upwards some which helped a lot. It's probably back to crap now due to all the wheelies though
Hth's

years ago when I worked on Al Corda's cars I took his wagon and followed the old DC books and got it to near zero toe change by bending ball joint arm etc like the book says , it works but it's a lot of work.
Russ

My take on your question is : yes you can get it REALLY close or even perfect.
However as I`m sure you understand ,measured and driven patterns are WAY different.
Who knows exactly what the suspension angles really are at speed or unloaded at launch,braking etc....
On my E-body I spent ALOT of time to get zero change at all heights but when the tire leaves the ground it still toes in 3/16". Car drives really well,and the tires show perfect wear. So must be close enough.

IMO get as close as you can then adjust based on results.

Jim most are nowhere near that bad. What caster are you running? Caster lowers the outer tie rods. How did you measure the toe? As the front is raised the track narrows. You must measure the difference between the front and the back of the tire, not just the front. Mine has these parts with a hybrid stock inner/modified outer sleeve.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html?sku=91636055-PINTO&utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=CSEGoogle&utm_campaign

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/QA1-PCYMR10T-High-Misalign-Chromoly-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-5-8-18-RH-Male,45403.html


I run about 2 1/2 degrees of caster with a 2 degree forward rake measured at the rocker. Zero toe through the range.
Doug

Thanks for the replies , I have 1/8+camber 3 1/2 + caster . The reason I posted the question is my 62 wagon that I sold , my dads 65 a990,and my 64 savoy hemi street car did not need much modification to have damn near perfect front geometry. This 64 which has been in the family since 1967 was just a nightmare. It's correct now, in my first post I got it to zero sitting still and from 2" of lift all the way to off the ground 1/8" toe in . Just wondered why this car was so bad.