My Dad has a 94 2500 Cummins Truck. He went to pick up a car for me in N.C. and his truck is acting up. He says that its acting like a plugged fuel filter. He stopped and changed the filter and said the old one looked fine. No power after driving it for a few minutes. If it sets an hour it will drive ok alot farther.
He checked codes and it has code "12", "Battery has been disconnected in last 50 cycles.
AND
Code "34" Open or short in the Speed Control Solenoid Circuits or Speed Control Switch Voltage to High or Low.
any help would be very appreciated
thanks

He might have a tank full of crap choking off the suction side.

check the fuel shutoff solenoid. I had a problem just like this on my 1997 and it was this solenoid not staying open after the truck started. It has two modes of operation ... 1) when you hit the starter, it gets full power to yank it open. 2) when you release the starter, the soleniod gets 1/2 power just to hold it open. On my truck, the rubber boot around the solenoid plunger was falling apart and little bits were jammed between the plunger rod and the solenoid body. At start, the solenoid yanked open but at run, it didn't let enough fuel by and there was no power. Google on "larry b starter contacts" and follow the redirect. look for the Dodge fuel solenoids page for replacement parts.

Thanks for ur replies
He is leaving it at a Dodge Dealership and getting a rental car to get home.

We used to see alot of problems from the low pressure fuel pump causing a lack of power. Mopar came out with a kit where we would remove the electric low pressure pump from the side of the block and install the low pressure pump in the tank. The kit came with the in-tank pump and the wireing. Many times if the low pump was causing low pressure feed to the injector pump we would see them come back within a week or so needing the injector pump also since lack of fuel to the injector pump can hurt the injector pump. Good luck with it , Ron

Ron, no electric fuel pump on 94's, that was 1998 1/2 and up. 94's had a mechanical lift pump on the drivers side on the block.

My '95 did that a few years ago. I replaced all the common stuff (fuel switch, fuel pump, sending unit, fuel filter, fuel hoses).

The problem was caused by the injector pump.

Same thing happened to my '96, injection pump. I hope it's something simpler, cheaper.

Robert

My 95 did the same thing last year. I taught myself about the solenoid. Easiest way to test is to just unbolt it. You won't be able to turn the engine off w/o opening the hood and pulling the fuel shut off lever. I found that the snap ring that held the rod to the solenoid was worn , It slipped off and jammed the linkage. Still started and shut off but had no power. I flipped the snap ring 180 degrees and put it back together. Still running fine.
Doug

Yea I forgot as I just got so used to the ones I was working on having the electric pump most of the time. I dont remember if we had a kit to eliminate the mech pump as it is better to have the pump in the tank pushing the fuel up. On the electric ones it gave you a fuel pump block that went where the electric pump on the block was as this block they gave you let you just hook the fuel lines together where the electic pump was. There may have been a kit to eliminate the mechanical pumps but I cant remember. I just remember it seemed almost anytime I had a bad low pressure pump it would end up needing an injector pump. I would always start by checking the fuel filter first of course. Ron

What about the fuel pre-heater? I thought there was a filter screen in there as well. Or has he bypassed it already?

Ok - so what did the dealership say?