As shown in the video,the shield isn't on there.

Here's a pic of clearance to the windage tray.




Another...





One more...

Dipstick rattling against tray?

Sorry. Didn't watch the video as it never would play for me.
Did you see Johns post asking about converter depth?

Cannot tell how close it is from the pic angles, but could it be pickup tube rattling against the windage tray?

As noted the only thing(s) that were changed that took it from quiet to hitting was welding the baffles in the pan and the TC change? No pan change?, no w tray change?, no pump change (gasket/no gasket between pump/#5 cap)?, no bending of w tray?. I couldn't play the video either, they wanted me to subscribe . The pan baffles are all well below the w tray correct? Same pan gasket (thickness in other words). The tinny sound sure sounds like w tray but sounds like your visual (not the pics) is looking OK there. I'd stay on the TC/shield. Keep us posted. Are you SURE nothing is hitting the tray? EDIT wouldn't that be a bite if it IS the dipstick

It's in the pan near the #3 cap, I can feel it now.
I think baffles tweaking the tray nailed it...
Rod bolt bareley kissing the tray. Looking at my pics the tray looks slightly elliptical.
The pickup was a little loose but I tightened it another 360°, and doubt it would transmit through the pan so well. I guess I just couldn't pinpoint it yesterday, but today I can press on the pan and hear a very slight tone change.

I guess I get to pull the whole deal out again.
I really hoped it was bolts rubbing but after watching it run with a maglight I can see they are not even close to hitting anything.

Since I am tearing it all apart again, I went ahead and sprung for a Kevko M302 pan and pickup.Gonna delete the windage tray. Hopefully this will be the last time I pull this engine for many years.

Looks like the tang over the oil pump on the windage tray got pushed in on the driver side and the #5 rod was just grazing it.I pulled it back out with my pinky.Probably bumped it over installing the pan, tray is so malleable...grrrr...nothing but noise.






Don't see a need for the tray with the Kevko pan while it's apart,so deleting the tray.

Can I use my piston stop to block the engine up to tighten my converter bolts without damaging the forged aluminum piston,or should I use rope in the cylinder?

I sure wouldn't use the piston stop. It wasn't meant for that. Just block the flexplate with a big screwdriver. You just need to get the bolts tight not break them off.

Stick a hammer handle in the way of the crank. Back off crank once done, then roll the engine forward again

Screwdriver trick worked,gave the wrench a few light taps with a rubber mallet.

Thanks for all the help everyone!