Hi all

I have an R5 P7 roller cam Dodge engine that im putting in my car. 1977 Chrysler Centura. The engine made 818hp and 563fp on the dyno with an 830 carb. It will be running E85. The trans is a Mikes Transmissions Ultimate Glide with 1.76 first. 6800 convertor. 4.3 rear gear. With a 26x10 pro bracket radial. The car will weigh 2700 with me in it ready to race. Its a standard suspension car. Axles are gun drilled and star flanged. Strange brakes on all 4 corners. Aluminium tailshaft. Strange GT front struts. Strange da coilovers in the rear. The engine is set back a tad over half way behind the centreline of the front wheels. Dry sump tank, fuel cell, battery etc in the trunk. Just after peoples predictions on what you think it will run in the 1/4. Richmond gear calc determines it will go 8.8 @ 155 but im a bit spectacle.

And if anyone needs an adapter plate and crank adapter let me know. Adapter plate is machined from 7075 and the crank adapter is machined from 4340. Uses a sbm JW flexplate to suit a chevy convertor and sbm starter.

Cool car

now if he was only closer and I could convince him how much he needs all my torqueflight stuff over that silly Mikes glide....

that is one cool build! ...and nice work on the adapters. That seems to me to be a huge hurdle in running one of those.

What will it run? fly me over for a tune and you'll probably see 10's

I'm thinking you need a lower rear gear and higher stall. My guess low 10s, high 9s 130-135


that's a thick plate!

9.60s on accident and when the car is sorted out and properly working 8.90s or better.

Small tire will not need a ton of gear. Plus it's not a drag radial needing to dead hook. Some wheel speed on launch and the car appears light. Should run. I say 9.0's right out the box. Perfected, 8.7's.

Beautiful adapter. If I were not building a better mousetrap I would want one.

Adapter 1.01....
A neglected issue most racers never consider. A slight bur on the engine to trans mating surface(.010) can move your pump centerline .030". The smaller the bell the more important. No one check the surfaces or considers it. Install an adapter that gets dinged or picks up trash and the problem multiplies. Crank adapters same way. Who checks runnout on flywheels? With proper install and checking it can be of no issue. Adapters IMO are just an added opportunity for centerline and runnout issues. I'm trying to solve that issue as well as some other with my adapter/JW bell/hanging off pump bolts issues. Hope to have it out real soon.

MSD's acquisition of Accell who owns QuickTime has really slowed the process.

But, that is a nice adapter.

Leon

Those engines need more gears, it would go faster with a 3 speed. Wilson Engineering did a great job with that adapter. I would expect to see time slips in the low 10's/High 9's.

I'd like to put a R5/R6 P7 combo together at some point. Personally I'd like to see someone use a pro flight trans or a clutchless 5 speed. Even a 904 would be much better then what most are running. That right trans would really help the combo out. A good well sorted out chassis as well is just as important. I'd also would prefer a sheet metal intake manifold then those cast manifolds they sell. Might be easier to get but not better for making power. Also as mentioned before a lower rear end gear. That's just the natural habitat for a small block. Just some small changes would take these motors from running ok to running great.

Thanks for the replys from everyone.

Leon, i've been watching what you've been doing for a while now. But at the time when i bought this engine there wasn't much around in the way of adapters. Just those ones on ebay mainly and they dont look to flash for the money their asking.

Alan, yes my mate Dave did a wonderful job on the adapter. I supplied a lot of equipment to make his job of drawing it real easy. I had this glide sitting around so i'll just use it for now. With the car having such a small rear tyre it might help it 60" a touch with the 1.76 first. With a 3 speed it will just blow the tyres off easier on the line and i'll have to set the 2 step out of the torque band. The plan is to see how the glide goes and mabey switch to an A1 built TH350 in the future for some back to back testing. The adapter is going back to Dave so he can take some weight out of it. At the moment im just trial fitting everything. The main objective is to make this thing as light as possible and still be a streeter.

Why do you guys think it needs more rear gear? Richmond determines it needs a 4.3 rear gear at 8740rpm through the traps with a 26" tyre. The engine made peak hp at 8500rpm and didn't drop below 800 until after 8700 at least. I've gone with a 4.3 rear gear as thats what i had laying around.

8.80's, your converter needs to flash higher, but you're just short of torque peak so it will be ok to start there.

People just type away when they don't know the combination you have is a nice way to put it.

With a 26" tire you may find you have too much gear.

Sheet metal intakes have been tried with no improvement on 358's.

Lol

Thanks again for the replys gents. I'll see how i go with what i got at the moment and collect some data. Then switch to a 3 speed. Leon im really interested in these bells your getting made man. I need one to go from R5 to TH350. Whats the chances? Lsp thanks for the replys on both here and yb mate. I didn't get much interest over there.