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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: jt4406]
#1708091
12/11/14 04:23 AM
12/11/14 04:23 AM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
Big Bad Bee
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 10,938
Spokane Valley, WA
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Guys thank you for the great pictures and advice. Dave P, thank you for the advice on removing the bumper assembly. It looks like 6 bolts will get It and I see that you left the valance in. Nobody came up with a photo of lifting the car by the two holes in the frame rails. In this photo I am pointing to the location. Seems like I could just stick a hook in each hole and the inward pull of the chain would keep the hooks planted.  I really appreciate all the tips. I'm going to get the wiper motor and AC unit under the dash and get started. Lindy 
I’m listening.
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: Big Bad Bee]
#1708093
12/11/14 10:41 AM
12/11/14 10:41 AM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,828
Houston, Tx
hemi68charger
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,828
Houston, Tx
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Quote:
Guys thank you for the great pictures and advice. Dave P, thank you for the advice on removing the bumper assembly. It looks like 6 bolts will get It and I see that you left the valance in.
Nobody came up with a photo of lifting the car by the two holes in the frame rails. In this photo I am pointing to the location. Seems like I could just stick a hook in each hole and the inward pull of the chain would keep the hooks planted.
I really appreciate all the tips. I'm going to get the wiper motor and AC unit under the dash and get started.
Lindy
Those two holes are what I used with my Daytona lifting.
TroyHouston Mopar Connection Club'69 Charger Daytona 440 - auto - 4.10 Dana (now with 426 hemi) '69 Charger 500 440 - 4speed - 3.54 Dana '70 Road Runner 383 - 4speed - a/c (now with 440)
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: Big Bad Bee]
#1708096
12/11/14 12:48 PM
12/11/14 12:48 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,828
Houston, Tx
hemi68charger
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 8,828
Houston, Tx
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Quote:
Troy, how did you attach to them?
I used the tie-down straps that have the hooks on the end, fit right into the holes and the other ends went up to the lift.. I used two of these...
TroyHouston Mopar Connection Club'69 Charger Daytona 440 - auto - 4.10 Dana (now with 426 hemi) '69 Charger 500 440 - 4speed - 3.54 Dana '70 Road Runner 383 - 4speed - a/c (now with 440)
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: Big Bad Bee]
#1708097
12/11/14 01:28 PM
12/11/14 01:28 PM
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
DPelletier
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 15,134
Kelowna, B.C. Canada
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1) Mopar frame holes are easily damaged so be careful; DAMHIK 2) Do not allow the chain to pull towards the center: use a spreader or something that avoids that scenario (see #1) 3) No offence to anyone else, but I would stick with chain and would avoid trusting my freshly painted car to a set of ratchet straps....even good ones. The method I used worked perfectly and I would do it the exact same way again BUT I would put an angle or even a 2x4 between the angles to keep them in-line. I ended up distorting the area of the bumper mounting bolts due to the V in the chain....a bit of a PITA to fix.  Dave
1970 Super Bee 440 Six Pack
1974 'Cuda
2008 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Ram 3500 Diesel
2004.5 Ram 2500 Diesel
2003 Ram 3500 Diesel
2006 Durango Limited
[url] http://1970superbee.piczo.com [/url]
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: DPelletier]
#1708098
12/11/14 06:01 PM
12/11/14 06:01 PM
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Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,377
Tennessee
WyleECoyote
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 1,377
Tennessee
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Quote:
3) No offence to anyone else, but I would stick with chain and would avoid trusting my freshly painted car to a set of ratchet straps....even good ones.
Sorry!  Sorry. I couldn't resist! 
Nylon straps used here: 
Wile E. Coyote
Super Genius, Lover of FCA US LLC Products
*************
68 Road Runner (440 4-spd), 71 Superbee (383 slap), 71 Charger 500 (383 4-spd wA/C 1of 182), 72 Imperial, 74 Charger SE (440 sunroof), 84 D350 Crew-cab Dually (440), 75 D300 Dually Tandem (318 4-speed)
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: Big Bad Bee]
#1708100
12/15/14 03:51 PM
12/15/14 03:51 PM
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
MoparMarq
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,168
Vancouver, WA
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To OP,
If you notice in many of the pics, where the installer has his rear jack stands located heavily influences how much weigh the hoist (and front chassis) has to support. Mine were placed just at the rear spring front perch bulkhead. Some have placed theirs at the axle tubes, which adds to the weight that must be lifted at the front. The rear jack stand location is the "balance point" of the teetering assembly, if you will. ('72 RR, btw).
With jack stands at the front spring perch bulkhead, I put about 700-800 lbs of concrete landscaping blocks in the trunk to minimize the weight at the front to be lifted. In fact, there was enough weight in the trunk to allow me to lift the front of the car with one hand. To prevent over-rotating the car onto the rear bumper, I placed another jack stand under one of the rear arches of one of the leaf springs.
The hood stayed on. The front bumper stayed on. Even had the front control arms on also, though I can't remember if the front discs were also, as I was working on the brakes before I got the engine back from the builder.
With car rotated up, engine and trans went under easy as you please. Lowered car onto dolly/engine/trans. Minimal weight on front allowed rejiggering of dolly to align frame rail/K-frame holes. Fortunately, K-frame angle on dolly (just slightly nose-down) plus flex in motor mounts allowed all four bolts to go in without trouble.
11' ceilings at that garage, but front was under garage door at 8'. Still had enough room (with hood closed) to get front high enough to roll engine under.
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Re: Installing an Engine and Trans from Underneath
[Re: Big Bad Bee]
#1708102
12/31/14 04:45 PM
12/31/14 04:45 PM
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
RylisPro
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 2,432
NorCal
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Would it be a good idea to replace the 40 year old K frame bolts with brand new ones? Or just reuse the old ones? Thanks 
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